Heraion, an ancient sanctuary dedicated to the goddess Hera, lies on the northern shore of the Gulf of Corinth, at the very tip of the Perachora Peninsula just outside Loutraki. Nestled among pine trees, rocks, and sea, the sanctuary has long been more than just an archaeological site for those who visit.
For years, we had heard people describe how oddly touching it felt to lay your towel on ancient marble and swim near pillars and relics from another time. The site remained completely open to the public until quite recently – and in many ways, it still is.
When we arrived, we were struck by how closely the reality matched the stories: the turquoise bay, the light, the crystal-clear water, and the quiet sense of freedom in a sacred landscape from ages past. Some parts are now cordoned off – a simple rope in a few places – but the little harbor remains open to small boats, the path down to the temple has been improved, and the old feeling of openness still lingers. This is a place where myth, the everyday, and the sea still meet. But perhaps not for much longer.
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Heraion – history
Heraion is located at the westernmost tip of the Perachora Peninsula, overlooking the Gulf of Corinth and the historic sea routes along the northern coast of the Peloponnese. The site was a sanctuary dedicated to the goddess Hera and gradually became one of the most important places of worship in the region. The sanctuary itself lies in a sheltered bay just below the Melagavi lighthouse – a landmark that still guides maritime traffic today: southbound vessels toward the Corinth Canal, and northbound toward the Alkyonides Islands.
The first temple
As early as the Geometric period, around 900–700 BCE, the site was used for religious rituals. A first temple was likely built during the following Archaic period, when the area began to develop into one of the most significant sacred centers in the region. This earliest temple was probably constructed by inhabitants of Argos or possibly Megara, before Corinth later established its presence in the area. The Heraion was dedicated to Hera Akraia – “Hera of the Promontory” – a name that reflects both the site’s dramatic location and the special role the goddess held here. None of the earliest structures have survived, but archaeological finds suggest that the site was considered sacred long before the later monumental sanctuary was built.
The classical sanctuary
The temple, whose ruins still stand today, was built in the 6th century BCE in the Doric style, with a rectangular floor plan and a long altar structure to the east of the inner chamber, where the cult statue once stood. The site was gradually expanded during the Classical and Hellenistic periods with courtyards, colonnades, and water reservoirs. One of the most fascinating structures is the large stoa – an arcade – on the eastern side of the bay, constructed in two levels – the lower floor with Doric columns, the upper with more slender Ionic ones. The stoa was built in the 4th century BCE, possibly by Demetrios Poliorketes – a Hellenistic ruler known for his military campaigns and large-scale building projects. On the opposite side of the bay was a partially roofed courtyard complex, believed to have burned down during the Roman campaigns of 146 BCE.
Epithets of the Goddess
The goddess Hera was worshipped here under different epithets – Akraia and Limenia, ““Hera of the Promontory” and “Hera of the Harbor” – suggesting that the sanctuary served both as a local cult site and a landmark for seafarers in the Gulf of Corinth. The small bay below the sanctuary is believed to have functioned as an ancient harbor. A bit further up in the rock was a sacred cistern where rainwater was collected. More than 200 bronze vessels have been found here, likely used in purification rituals or libations to the gods. Some researchers have suggested that Heraion may also have functioned as an oracle site.
Heraion and the myth of Medea
The connection to the underworld and ritual power is deepened by the myth of Medea. According to some versions, it was here, after leaving Corinth, that she buried her children, the ones she had killed in her fury over Jason’s betrayal. When Strabo mentions the site in the 1st century CE, he also refers to an oracle, which may reflect lingering cult practices.
During the Roman period, the area began to lose its religious significance. Private houses were built near the temple, and the sanctuary seems to have been abandoned after the destruction of Corinth in 146 BCE. In Byzantine times, a small church was built atop the ruins—dedicated to Saint John the Baptist—but was relocated during excavations in the 20th century to a nearby site east of the bay.
Much of what we know about Heraion today comes from the British excavations conducted between 1930 and 1933. The finds from the site have been crucial for our understanding of the Archaic and Geometric periods in the region, offering unique insights into early Greek religious practices, construction techniques, and artistic expression.
Lake Vouliagmeni
Not far from Heraion lies Lake Vouliagmeni. Technically, it’s not a freshwater lake in the traditional sense, but a saltwater one, known as a limnothalassa in Greek. It is connected to the Gulf of Corinth through a narrow channel. The water at the inlet changes direction approximately every six hours, a rare phenomenon also seen at the Evripos Strait near the island of Euboea. When the current flows out toward the sea, the pull becomes so strong that it takes considerable force to enter the lagoon – something that likely posed a challenge for sailors even in ancient times.
In antiquity, the lake was known as Eschatiotis or Gorgopis, and it likely originated from a prehistoric earthquake. According to geological theories, it was formed when unstable layers of earth collapsed, causing the ground to sink. Today, the area is not only scenic but also of considerable archaeological importance.
As early as 2600 BCE, a settlement existed along the lake’s southwestern shore. Finds from excavations show that the site is among the most significant prehistoric settlements in all of Greece. Notably, a grave was discovered four meters deep, containing around 20 skeletons placed irregularly alongside some 60 clay vessels – one of them made from precious stone.
Archaeologists have also identified a nearby cave system with two chambers, believed to have served as an ossuary for the prehistoric settlement.
A unique aqueduct
To meet the water needs of the Heraion sanctuary – especially during peak periods of religious use -Corinthian engineers constructed an advanced hydraulic system, perhaps the most sophisticated in ancient Greece. About 750 meters northeast of the sanctuary lay a series of water cisterns, accessible via 160 steps carved directly into the rock. At a depth of 40 meters, water was collected in shafts, tunnels, and a richly decorated fountain structure supported by six columns. Using a unique lifting mechanism, the water was drawn from the depths and brought to the surface – an engineering feat that still impresses today with its precision.
A final stop
After all this – the temples, the cliffs, the stories – it feels right to let the journey pause in something simpler. A fish taverna by the shore of Lake Vouliagmeni, where tables and chairs sit unevenly in the gravel. Plates of fish and seafood arrive, rich with the scent of the sea – some of the freshest we’ve ever tasted. And there, in the shade of a pine tree, past and present seem to exhale together, before the journey continues toward the northern reaches of the Perachora Peninsula and the Gulf of Corinth.
Sources
– Kathimerini: Corinthia – The Lake with Ancient Secrets
– Peloponnese Events (archived): The Archaeological Site of Heraion in Perachora
– Wikipedia (el): Heraion of Perachora
– Folklore Association of Perachora: The Archaeological Site of Heraion
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