📣 The mainland has caught sight of the Expedition

It’s a joy to see that the wind has carried our voices to the Greek mainland. Our sails have been spotted on the horizon. Not like an armada – more like a solitary vessel carrying an uncommon cargo: unusual stories about the genuine Greece. And it wasn’t marketers or algorithms who took notice.

In recent months, Greek Expedition has been noticed from unexpected quarters – first in the culture section of Parapolitika, one of Greece’s most widely read news platforms, and more recently in the classic evening newspaper Apogevmatini.

We see it as a sign that our efforts are being recognised – not only for the content of our stories, but for the very choice to present a different Greece, beyond clichés and tired stereotypes. Read the full article in Parapolitika (in English) 👇

⛵ Before we set sail again

It’s been two years since we first raised anchor, and the journey has already brought more than we could have imagined. We’ve chosen a course that often moves more slowly, but leads deeper. Thanks to you, our fellow Greconauts, the Expedition has grown into a living logbook of a different Greece. 

Sharing our discoveries with an ever-growing number of curious travelers is a true privilege.

We’re tied to the quay for a while—not in rest, but in waiting. We’re shifting the cargo. New adventures are beginning to take shape out there in the haze. We sense their outlines and feel the wind turning.
Soon, we’ll raise the sails again, toward new horizons.

🌞 Until then: may the summer bring you fair winds, new horizons, and perhaps a dreamy detour from the beaten paths!

And perhaps, somewhere, you’ll catch sight of a sail on the horizon. Then you’ll know: it’s the Greek Expedition, once again in motion.

Our blog

Here you can browse all the articles on our blog: https://greekexpedition.com/en/blog-page/

Latest posts

• 
  Homer’s Odyssey: Part 2 in the series Off the beaten track in mythology
  Homer’s Odyssey has once again entered the spotlight, sparking renewed worldwide interest in this famous epic. But between the Cyclopes and the Sirens, there are also lesser-known characters and stories waiting to be discovered. In Part 1 of our series exploring those who dwell in the shadows of Greek mythology, we looked at enigmatic figures… Read more: Homer’s Odyssey: Part 2 in the series Off the beaten track in mythology
• 
  The Greek kitchen and chef Tselementes, the controversial father of moussaka
  Today, many people associate the Greek kitchen with moussaka’s delicious, golden-brown béchamel topping. Beneath that golden layer are layers of eggplant, potatoes, and ground meat. Yet the dish in this familiar form is not as old as you might think. The chef Nikolaos Tselementes was the man behind this transformation. Using French cooking techniques and… Read more: The Greek kitchen and chef Tselementes, the controversial father of moussaka
• 
  Greece in the 19th Century – Hellas Herald No. 1: The Fearless Woman
  The Hellas Herald – part of Greek Expedition In our new series, Hellas Herald, we are delving into travelogues, art, poetry, and contemporary newspaper archives, we are piecing together a mosaic of voices to approach the questions surrounding Greece in the 19th century. We begin our search through this archival treasure trove with the story… Read more: Greece in the 19th Century – Hellas Herald No. 1: The Fearless Woman
• 
  Greek customs and traditions: Anastenaria – firewalking in 2026
  When speaking of Greek customs and traditions, Anastenaria is one of the most peculiar examples. It is a traditional, ecstatic ritual in northern Greece that takes place on May 21st each year, the day the Orthodox Church celebrates the saints Constantine and Helen. Sustained by music, dance, and trance, the participants walk barefoot over red-hot… Read more: Greek customs and traditions: Anastenaria – firewalking in 2026
• 
  Greek mythology: strange beings and forgotten legends, part 1
  Greek mythology is most often associated with the gods of Olympus, heroic warriors, and the great stories that survived through antiquity. But behind the best-known myths lies another landscape – one filled with strange beings, local legends, forgotten symbols, and fragments of myths that have lingered in the shadows for centuries. That is where this… Read more: Greek mythology: strange beings and forgotten legends, part 1

Connect to the Greek Expedition

Contact the Expedition

If you have any questions about the expedition or experience any issues with the website, please don’t hesitate to contact us. We’re here to answer any questions and clarify any uncertainties.

Modern-day Loutraki stretches along the coastline almost to the Corinth Canal, lined with tall apartment blocks, countless hotels, wide pavements, and a constant flow of cafés, bars, and tavernas. It’s a lively and popular destination – but not a town that appeals to everyone aesthetically, especially not to those in search of charm or architectural beauty.

A spa town with grandeur

But Loutraki has another layer – a history that’s easy to overlook behind the beachfront bars. In the late 19th and early 20th century, a grand vision took shape: to create an exclusive spa resort for the upper classes, complete with elegant bathhouses and a casino that drew guests from across Europe.

Graceful buildings in neoclassical and European styles lined the town’s streets, carrying a sense of continental confidence – pillars, balustrades, domes facing the sea. Loutraki was never just a beach town. It was a spa town with elegance and grandeur.

But the splendour didn’t last. During the 20th century, Loutraki was struck by a series of devastating earthquakes that shook the town to its core, time and again. What had once been built to impress – with marble, ornamentation, and a gaze fixed on the sea – was repeatedly reduced to rubble.

Here and there along the seafront, old hotel buildings still appear – abandoned or half-restored – many of them once prime examples of eclectic architecture. They whisper of a bygone era, where faded elegance and lost pride still linger in the façades and the once-luxurious verandas overlooking the sea.

Pigi – the original spring

A few steps further along the seafront, next to the small Byzantine church dedicated to Agios Andreas – Loutraki’s patron saint – lies the true heart of old Loutraki. This site, which once formed the centre of the town’s identity as a spa resort, includes the original spring, Pigi, and the semi-circular 1930s building that surrounds it. The fact that it has now been partially restored and reopened to visitors came as a very welcome surprise on our last trip.

The building doesn’t merely house the original spring – it seems to have grown out of the rock itself. The cliff from which the spring water flows juts out into the centre of the room, surrounded by columns and mosaics, as if the architecture is honoring the very presence of nature.

The semi-circular building was designed by Leonidas Bonis and magnificently adorned with colourful mosaics by the artist Stefanos Xenopoulos from Zakynthos, together with his students.

The building was constructed between 1931 and 1934, at a time when Loutraki was rising again after the 1928 earthquake and reaffirming its role as a spa resort. Inside, where the water still trickles from the rock, lies a small pool framed by a simple, harmonious row of columns.

Splendid mosaic and ancient mythology

The vivid mosaics inside the building form a poetic tribute to water, light, and mythology. Visitors are greeted by water nymphs – Nereids – at both the entrance and the exit. Beneath the central dome, a magnificent scene unfolds: the sun god Helios, riding his four-horse chariot, sweeps across the sea while the figure of night slowly recedes.

Around the dome, the forest nymphs – Dryads – dance through a bucolic landscape filled with movement, vegetation, and music. Satyrs play their flutes, and from one side, Pan himself lets his melody drift gently into the room.

The mosaics’ vivid colour palette – with gold, blue, terracotta, and deep green tones – brings each scene to life with warmth and vibrancy. The motifs are not random: they follow a clear narrative structure – beginning, middle, and end – with nature and the healing water taking centre stage.

The thermal springs of Loutraki today: the modern thermal spa

The thermal springs of Loutraki have been the town’s lifeline for over two thousand years – from ancient Thermai to today’s modern bathing culture. The historic source, Pigi, still bears traces of another era, but the tradition lives on in a new form.

At Loutraki Thermal Spa, visitors are offered water-based therapies, massage, and relaxation in bright, contemporary settings where the mineral-rich water still takes centre stage. Here, the old meets the new – hydrotherapy and treatments rooted in an ancient tradition, adapted to today’s needs for rest, stress relief, and restored balance.

As you leave Loutraki behind and follow the road westward, another coastal site awaits – lesser known, yet with a history that also reaches back into distant times. In our next article, we visit Heraion, a somewhat forgotten sanctuary dedicated to the goddess Hera, built right by the sea, where you can swim just beside the ancient marble.

💧 Facts: The thermal springs of Loutraki

Water properties:
– Chloride-sodium composition
– Low mineral content (oligometallic)
– Slightly alkaline (pH 7.2–7.3)
– Mildly radioactive
– Temperature: 30.4–34.5 °C
– Radioactivity: 14 Mache units

Traditionally used to treat:
– Arthritis and chronic rheumatism
– Herniated discs and spondylitis
– Arteriosclerosis and high blood pressure
– Gallstones and kidney stones
– Digestive disorders, chronic constipation, and obesity
– Diabetes, chronic hepatitis, and pyelonephritis (kidney inflammation)

Sources

• Loutraki Municipal Thermal Spa
• The Greek newspaper Kathimerini about Loutraki
• Loutraki blog
• Loutraki Thermal Spa

Related articles under the category: Explorations →

In the first part of our journey in northern Peloponnese, we had arrived at Mantineia, where the ancient ruins combined with the breathtaking scenery offered us an enchanting journey through the millennia. In this second part, we continue on winding roads through the magical plateau.

A remarkable sanctuary

In the heart of the mountain plateau lies a unique building with rather unusual architecture: the chapel of Agia Foteini, built during the 1970s. Its fascinating blend of Byzantine elements, ancient Greek architecture, and some modernist features makes it stand out as an odd monument in the middle of the high plateau.

The church was constructed using only recycled materials, which was unusual at the time it was built. The architect who led the work, Kostas Papatheodorou, considered this his life’s work and carefully oversaw every small detail.

Inside the church, there are icons and mosaics with motifs from both Christianity and Greek mythology. Here, saints are depicted as resembling ancient philosophers. Even the depictions of Jesus and the Virgin Mary have been given a more modern style than is customary in Orthodox iconography.

The Greek Church initially opposed these interventions, but the small church was eventually approved as an Orthodox temple. Today, Agia Foteini is a popular place for weddings and baptisms, appreciated for its unique architectural style and significant cultural value.

More about Agia Foteini and its creator here:

Kapsia Cave, a natural art gallery

After leaving the peculiar little church, we continue our journey through the mountain plateau of Mantineia, arriving at the relatively unknown Kapsia Cave. It is ranked as one of the ten most impressive caves in Greece and is admired for its unique and colorful stalactites and stalagmites. The cave system was discovered in 1887 by the French archaeologist Gustave Fougères and has since become a significant site for speleological research.

The “Hall of Miracles” is particularly notable for its fantastic formations in strong red, yellow, and blue hues.

Inside the cave, human bone remains and pottery have been found, testifying to a catastrophic flood in the Middle Ages when people sought refuge in the cave but were trapped and drowned. Excavations have also unearthed traces of older artifacts, indicating a human presence dating back to the Late Stone Age.

High up in the mountains of Morea

We now head upwards, along winding serpentine roads, into the mountainous regions of Northern Peloponnese, with peaks over 6500 feet high. To the west rises the majestic Erymanthos, to the east the impressive Kyllini mountain range, and to the north the Aroaneia mountains, also called Helmos. Among dramatic slopes and deep, forested valleys, we encounter a different world of magnificent natural beauty and ancient history.

Our destination is the springs of the Ladon River, celebrated as one of the most picturesque spots in the region. Crystal-clear water flows from these springs amidst lush greenery, creating an idyllic atmosphere. The river meanders through valleys filled with dense groves of plane trees, renowned for their exceptional natural beauty and the soothing sound of their pristine waters.

The ancient geographer and explorer Pausanias described Ladon as the most beautiful river on earth. Today, it is a popular destination for nature lovers and adventurers. Along the river, there are also several trout farms, where you can enjoy a meal beside the swift-flowing streams and absorb the area’s peaceful atmosphere.

German Fortifications from World War II

The German artillery fortifications from World War II appear here and there during our journey through the Northern Peloponnese, especially in strategically important locations. These remnants bear witness to a darker period in Greece’s history and remind us of the conflicts that have shaped the country. The decaying concrete bunkers and gun emplacements stand as silent witnesses to the war events that unfolded here. They give us insight into the geostrategic importance of these regions and remind us of the hardships the people endured during the days of war.

The vine of Pausanias

In the small village of Pagrati, just south of Ladon’s springs, we stop to view the legendary vine that Pausanias described as a remarkable phenomenon as early as 200 CE. Located in the municipality of Kalavryta, in Northern Peloponnese, this ancient vine is believed to be over 2,200 years old. Its total length is estimated to exceed 300 feet.

Over the centuries, the vine has grown tight together with other local plants and is now a protected natural monument. Although it doesn’t bear fruit, it blooms every spring and presents an impressive and rare sight. The vine’s twisted and gnarled branches spread across the large garden of the Agios Nikolaos church, making the place a unique and fascinating attraction to visit.

The Environment Museum of Stymphalia

After exploring many fascinating places on our journey in the Northern Peloponnese, we conclude our trip by visiting the outstanding Environment Museum at Lake Stymphalia. To get there, we once again travel on winding roads that cut through the incredibly beautiful landscape in the high mountain regions of the Corinth area.

On a plateau surrounded by majestic mountains lies the legendary Lake Stymphalia, famous for the heroic deed of Heracles in killing the man-eating Stymphalian birds. The Environment Museum lies like a hidden gem on the shores of the lake.

Lake Stymphalia is an important part of the region’s ecosystem and is included in the European network of protected areas, NATURA 2000. The Environmental Museum at Lake Stymphalia plays a crucial role in raising awareness about ecological balance and the need to protect the environment.

The museum is divided into two main sections: the first focuses on the environment and presents the region’s unique geology, flora, and fauna. The second describes how these natural conditions have influenced human activities such as agriculture, fishing, and beekeeping over the years.

The building, with its glass facade and panoramic view of the lake, harmonizes well with the surrounding landscape and offers a beautiful view of the whole area.

The museum uses various means of expression and audiovisual tools to enhance the visitor’s experience. One of the most impressive permanent exhibitions is a cross-section of the lake, where visitors can observe local plants and fish up close.

The Environment Museum opened in 2010 as part of The Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation – PIOP’s museum network, in collaboration with the EU and the Greek state. The network consists of seven different themed museums spread across Greece. Read more about the museum network here >>

A more detailed article about the museum, its exhibitions, and its significance to the region’s culture and environment you can find here:

You can also download the museum guide as a PDF here>>

Our journey continues

This journey through the Northern Peloponnese has been a deep dive into authentic Greece, where every step revealed new layers of its natural and cultural heritage. We have walked along ancient roads, encountered traces of mythological gods and heroes, and marveled at the diversity of the landscape. From quiet lakes and hidden beaches to abandoned train stations and war fortifications, each place has told its own unique story.

We have not only explored physical places but also traveled through layers of time, where each epoch has left its mark on the landscape. We have tasted local wines, wandered through ancient ruins, and experienced natural sceneries that have inspired poets and scientists.

But this was just the beginning. In future posts, we will dive even deeper into each specific place we’ve described here and explore even more of the versatile Peloponnesian peninsula.

Stay tuned for upcoming articles on our blog>>

Go to the first part of the series Off the Beaten Path in Northern Peloponnese here>>

Selection of images from Part 1

Kakia Skala – the Evil Stairway

Paradise beaches along the ancient road to Corinth

At the mouths of the Corinth Canal

Nemea – on the wine roads

Mycenean pyramid

Lerna, a mythical place of water worship

The abandoned rail network

Off the beaten track in the Northern Peloponnese,

Källor: Wikipedia
https://spilaiokapsia.gr/en/main-home
Pireus Bank Group Cultural Foundation

The old national road, Παλαιά Εθνική Οδός, from Athens to the northern Peloponnese winds through a varied and impressive landscape that is bypassed when traveling on the new fast Olympia highway. The old road, though more difficult to drive on and much slower, offers a true immersion in what makes up genuine Greece.

The difficult passage between Attica and the Northern Peloponnese

40 km west of Athens, we drive through Kakia Skala, also known as the Rocks of Skiron. It is a dramatic and mythical region where the landscape is as beautiful as it is dangerous. Since ancient times, Kakia Skala has been considered a difficult passage between Attica and the Peloponnese, always feared for its dangers. Even in modern times, the route has been notorious for its many traffic accidents.

According to Greek mythology, this is the place where the bandit Skiron lured his victims. They were forced to wash his feet before he kicked them off the cliff, down to a waiting turtle-like monster.

The narrow road that winds along by the edges of the cliffs offers an exhilarating ride, with each turn revealing a new and breathtaking view of the Aegean Sea. It is a place that reminds the visitor of Greece’s rich and often dramatic history.

After passing Kakia Skala and before reaching the Northern Peloponnese, small detours from the central road beckon with several unknown, paradise-like beaches. Here you can find a peaceful retreat that not many people know about. Small tavernas along the coast offer the delights of the sea, served with a simplicity that only the initiated can enjoy. These hidden gems, far from the usual tourist routes, provide an authentic and peaceful experience, where time seems to stand still.

At the mouth of the Corinth Canal

As we approach the Corinth Canal in Northern Peloponnese, we make a small detour to the northern mouth of the canal and the remains at Diolkos. In ancient times, a paved road began here, allowing boats to travel overland from the Gulf of Corinth to the Aegean Sea. This allowed ships to avoid the dangerous and long circumnavigation of the Peloponnese.

At the northern mouth of the Diolkos, as well as at the southern mouth, where the small village of Isthmia is located, there are today small self-sinking bridges that elegantly dip below the surface of the water when boats pass. From their railings, you can see the large regular bridges that span the Corinth Canal, an impressive view that recalls both ancient engineering and modern technology.

On the wine roads of Nemea

We pass Corinth and continue our journey to Nemea. This region is known for its rich vineyards. Nemea is home to the Agiorgitiko grape, which produces one of Greece’s most respected wines.

The area also has deep historical roots. It was once the site of the Nemean Games, one of the most important athletic competitions of antiquity. Even the legend of Heracles and the Nemean Lion gives a mythical aura to the whole region.

Along the popularly known wine routes of Nemea, there is a plethora of local wineries that also offer wine-tasting opportunities. The rolling landscape, with its vast fields of green vines, lush mountain plateaus, and picturesque villages, invites the traveler to explore it in depth, on foot or by car.

The Mycenaean pyramids

Our journey now takes us to the village of Elliniko, just southwest of the city of Argos. It is home to the best preserved of the famous Mycenaean pyramids – fascinating structures whose origins and purpose are still hotly debated by scholars.

Opinions are divided as to when the pyramid at Elliniko was built. Most estimates place its construction around the 4th century BC, while more recent dating methods have suggested that it may be as old as the middle of the 3rd millennium BC.

Pausanias, the ancient Greek explorer and geographer, described a similar structure in the area around 200 AD, which he believed to be a tomb for soldiers killed in battle. Other theories suggest that the pyramid may have served as a fortress or signal station.

These ancient structures show the technical skills that were once mastered here. The area is also home to many other important archaeological sites, making the Argolis region a place of great archaeological and cultural importance.

Water worship at Lerna

We follow in the footsteps of mythology to the marshes of Lerna, the place where Hercules fought his epic battle against the Lernean Hydra. This area, on the western coast of the Gulf of Argolis, was once closely associated with the ancient cult of the liquid element, giving Lerna a special place in Greek mythology and history. The god Poseidon has been worshipped here since ancient times. It was also the site of the mythical Lake Alkyonia, said to be bottomless and one of the entrances to the underworld – the realm of Hades.

Throughout history, Lerna has been described in many ways: as a river, a spring, a lake, and even as a plain. Excavations in recent years have revealed human presence since the Neolithic period. These different descriptions reflect the rich and complex history that characterizes this place.

Peloponnese abandoned railway network

Throughout our journey we come across many abandoned stations, overgrown tracks, rusting locomotives, and gaping empty carriages. These are the remnants of what, not so long ago, was a narrow-gauge but vital railway network that spanned the Peloponnese. It ran through magnificent mountainous areas and snaked between picturesque villages offering breathtaking views.

After the Second World War, the railway slowly began to deteriorate. Despite constant repairs and attempts at reconstruction, the economic crises of recent years led to the suspension of all freight and passenger traffic on the Peloponnese narrow-gauge rail network in 2011.

Today the tracks lie abandoned, overgrown, and rusted, like silent witnesses to a bygone era of Greek industry and transport.

Mantineia mountain plateau

Next, we enter the region of Arcadia and travel through the rolling landscape of the Mantineia plateau. We admire the enchanting light of the sun reflecting on the smooth hills and lush meadows. Mantineia is known not only for its natural beauty but also for its historical and cultural importance.

Mantineia is believed to be the birthplace of the god Poseidon. The god of the sea has been the protector of the area since ancient times. This region in the heart of the Peloponnese not only has strong mythological references but has also played an important role in Greek history.

There are numerous archaeological sites here that bear witness to human activity from prehistoric times. As we travel through Mantineia and gaze upon the expansive landscapes, we are carried away by the deep currents of history. The ancient ruins, harmonizing with the breathtaking scenery, offer us a captivating journey across the unfolding millennia.

Off the beaten track in the Northern Peloponnese, part 2

In the next part of our series, we visit a very special sanctuary: Agia Foteini, with its fascinating blend of Byzantine, ancient Greek, and modernist elements. The small chapel stands out as a strange monument in the middle of the Mantineia plateau.

We then head up the high mountain ranges of the Morea and explore the springs of the Ladon River, which Pausanias described as the most beautiful place in the world…

Don’t miss the second part of our series: Off the beaten track in the northern Peloponnese

Agia Foteini, interior

On the way to the springs of river Ladon

The hall of miracles

Pausanias vine

Fortresses of German artilleryr

Environmet museum of Stymphalia

Sources: Wikipedia
https://spilaiokapsia.gr/en/main-home
Pireus Bank Group Cultural Foundation

In the 1980s, after completing my studies, I finally got a real job and it turned out that my new employer allowed us to take fairly long uninterrupted vacations in the summer. This allowed me to spend 5-7 weeks in Greece, a place I had come to adore.

Unfortunately, my Interrail journeys came to an end as I had passed the upper age limit for the preferential card. However, I found that cheap flights were a good way to travel to Greece.

In the 70’s, traveling had been part of the goal, it had been a lot of fun to travel around Europe by train, but now it was all about discovering Greece for real.

Here are some memories of my trips to Greece in the first half of the 80s:

Island-hopping, in the 80s

From 1980 to 1984, I visited island after island in the magnificent Greek archipelago (from 1982 and on with then-girlfriend Eva, now wife). In the summers of 1980 and 1981, I saw a considerable part of the islands. I was determined to return to my beloved Amorgos and I would for sure stay a few days in Athens on each trip. In 1980, I traveled to Mykonos, Naxos, Santorini, Crete, Paros, and finally to Amorgos, the place of my heart.

When I returned to Amorgos in August 1980, I decided to stay in the port of Katapola and take the bus back and forth to Chora, which was still my favorite place on the island. It was a bit tricky to find a place to stay and for around a week I slept directly on the small beach next to the village. I shared space with a flock of ducks under the shelter of some αλμυρίκια/tamarisks (a saltwater-resistant tree common on Greek beaches). There was no organized camping place at that time.

After a while, though, I managed to share a room with a Cretan guy who worked as a waiter. When I visited Amorgos in 1979, I’d only seen Katapola and Chora, so I wanted to explore more of the island. But it was not easy to get between the different villages. The road between Chora and Aegiali wasn’t finished yet, the road construction was ongoing. To the “lower” part of the island (Kato Meria), there was a road, but it was barely passable. To get to the northern port of Aegiali, you needed to go by boat or with good walking shoes.

Island-hopping with Skopelitis (and Marianna)

Marianna was the boat that connected the small Cyclades with Naxos, which was a vital link for these islands. Marianna was built in Norway and operated as a fjord boat under the name Vaeröy. Many vessels operating in the Greek waters came from northern Europe, not least from Sweden. There were often small signs in Scandinavian languages about what you could and couldn’t do on board.

But it was something really special to go island-hopping with Marianna. I’ve never been so scared on a boat as I was on a couple of occasions on board this ship. Marianna sailed through thick and thin (and unfortunately also in storms). It was usually the legendary Dimitris Skopelitis himself who was at the helm. There are lots of stories about this sea bear. He started taming the waves of the sea with his various ships as early as 1956. You can learn more about the history of Skopelitis here, with some great images: http://www.smallcycladeslines.gr/en/home/.

Skopelitis was an amazing sailor and captain. He also played the violin well. I remember once we were on the Marianna somewhere between Aegiali, Donoussa, and Koufonisi. It was a heavy storm out there, and I was pretty scared as the waves were washing over the deck. Inside the saloon it was impossible to stay, people were all over the place feeling sick.
But when I was sure that our last moment had come, suddenly music came through the howling wind. When we looked into the wheelhouse, we saw Dimitris Skopelitis was playing the violin! All of a sudden, the ship and the rough journey didn’t seem so scary anymore.

Marianna was eventually replaced by the vessel Skopelitis, which wasn’t the best. A few years later, the Captain acquired the current ferry Express Skopelitis. Today there’s not much that’s “express” about this old vessel, but it’s still a seaworthy, reliable, and clean ship.

If you want to go island hopping in the Small Cyclades, a trip on board Express Skopelitis is almost a must. The crew is great. Giannis Foustiris usually captains her today. Legendary Captain Dimitris Skopelitis (Kapetan-Mitsos) sadly passed away a few years ago.

Amorgos – 1980, the hike towards Aegiali

When I first went to Amorgos in 1979, I didn’t know much about the island. I’d barely heard of Aegiali and the surrounding villages. So after a few days in Katapola and Chora, I decided to explore the northern part.

It was approaching August 15th—the Assumption of the Virgin Mary—one of the biggest holidays in Greece, as many travelers know. In the village of Lagada, this is celebrated for two days, August 14-15. I was lucky enough to experience the festivities there both in 1980 and 1981.

I had decided to hike to Aegiali from Chora together with a Dutchman I had met in Katapola. Many people said that the hike usually takes 3-4 hours, along a well-marked donkey trail. We were told to get an early start and to bring plenty of water.

However, things didn’t quite go as planned. In Chora, there was a small party at Dimitris’ taverna To Kastro, with music and lots of wine. I had earlier talked to a couple of soldiers about going with them in their jeep towards Aegiali, as long as the road was clear. The condition was that we had to be ready to travel early in the morning.

We had sleeping bags with us for some kind of accommodation in Aegiali, but we didn’t get up in time! The jeep had already left. The sun was high in the sky when we started the trek and we soon got lost. Hans was smart and turned back to walk the next day, but I kept walking, with far too little water.

If you’ve seen the classic movie Ice Cold in Alex, you’ll understand how I felt when I finally reached Aegiali. I still clearly remember the panorama when I passed all the mountains and was on my way down to the harbor (this was before the new quay was built). What a view! So insanely beautiful! It’s nice even today, but the old little harbor was so incredibly charming!

After the long, hot hike with far too little water (I know, a bad idea!), I was pretty exhausted.

The first person I met in Aegiali was a Greek musician I’d recorded in Stockholm and who had tipped me off about the island from the start. I had no idea that Giannis Alexandris would be there. This summer he ran a simple taverna with some friends.

But where would I sleep? I asked around and found out that there was no accommodation in the port of Aegiali or the villages of Potamos, Lagada and Tholaria. There was no camping at that time, so I had to do what many others did and use a part of the beach for me and my luggage.

Great festivities in the villages

In the days that followed, more and more people arrived in Aegiali to celebrate the festival in Lagada. On the 14th of August, many of us walked up the donkey trail to the festivities.

Lagada

It was a wonderful couple of days, with the village partying and dancing until dawn. In the evening a large group of us went down to the beach to sleep, only to go back up to the church the next day, where πατσά/patsa, soup made from cow’s stomach, was served after the church ceremony. According to many Greeks, patsa is the best thing to eat after a long night of drinking. And it was true, at least this time.

I spent a few fantastic days in Aegiali and the village of Lagada before returning to Katapola. The following year I made the same journey to take part in the great celebration of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary on 15 August.

Agia Paraskevi

On 26 July, I also saw the island’s other big religious festival, Agia Paraskevi in Kato Meria, the south of Amorgos. It was already big then, and today it is said to be the biggest in the Cyclades. The island’s famous dish, πατατάτο/patatato, which is goat and potatoes in a stew. It’s delicious!

In 1982 it wasn’t easy to get to Agia Paraskevi because the roads were terrible. But the legendary old Dodge bus managed to make a few trips so that people could join the celebrations.

I and a few friends ended up on a truck bed, which was fine. There weren’t many private cars on the island at the time, which made sense as the roads were few and in poor condition. Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to experience this festival again.

You can read more about the Agia Paraskevi festival here: https://www.greekgastronomyguide.gr/en/item/panigyri-tis-agias-paraskevis-amorgos/

1984. Crete and Kalymnos

In August 1984 I was newly married and planned to go with my wife to Karpathos. We had heard that the island would be similar to Amorgos, which we loved.

We arrived in Piraeus to buy tickets for a ferry to the Dodecanese islands and then to Karpathos. This very long trip would end in Agios Nikolaos in Crete. We thought we’d take the same ship back to Amorgos.

But we hadn’t realized that one of Greece’s biggest holidays was coming up. It was August 15th, the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. There were no tickets left for any ferries. Would we have to spend this weekend in Athens?

After a bit of a wait, we finally got a seat on the boat “Knossos” to Heraklion. The ship’s former name was “M/S Svea”, with lots of signs still in Swedish. M/S Svea had collided with another ship about ten years earlier, but after a few years at the shipyard, she had been put back into service. We arrived at Crete’s capital, Heraklion pretty early in the morning. We jumped on a bus that took us east to the town of Agios Nikolaos. From there, we planned to take the ferry over to Karpathos, from the wrong direction, so to speak. We thought it was a pretty smart move.

But we hadn’t expected the strong storm that hit the Cyclades and the Dodecanese islands at that time. Winds of 9 to 10 Beaufort stopped all ferry traffic for almost two days. We finally arrived 36 hours late, on the ferry “Kamiros” that would take us to Karpathos. The waves were still pretty high when the ferry passed the island of Kasos, but we were told that due to the storm, we couldn’t dock in Karpathos.

We were disappointed, so we rolled out the sleeping bags on the floor and went to sleep. In the middle of the night, we were woken up by the boat docking in some unknown port. It turned out that we had reached Karpathos after all! We then tried to pack our things as quickly as we could, but we didn’t have time before the boat weighed anchor again, heading for Rhodes. We decided to skip Karpathos and go to Kalymnos instead. Yes, this can happen!

We haven’t yet had the chance to visit Karpathos. It might sound a little crazy to mention a non-visit in the text, but I think that a canceled Karpathos visit is also a Karpathos visit. After all, we were so close! It’s been similar with many of our Greek wanderings. Plans have often had to be changed, often depending on weather and wind, among other things. But that’s also part of the charm, isn’t it?

1984. Kalymnos

When I think of our arrival at the port of Pothia on Kalymnos, the Greek concept of φιλότιμο/philotimo immediately comes to mind. There are many memories from travelling in Greece that describe this concept perfectly.

My then-girlfriend (now-wife) and I arrived on the new island pretty late after a long journey from Crete, where we’d been waiting for the boat. Rooms were scarce in the town, so we ended up in the village of Myrties, staying with an older couple called Kokkino, which means “red” in Greek.

The nice couple, Red, had lived most of their lives in Paris. Now in their older age, they spent most of the year on Kalymnos. We hadn’t had any food for quite some time, so we walked randomly north on the island and eventually found a tavern that looked quite nice after a 30–40 min walk.

The owner asked if we wanted fish. He had a σφυρίδα/ white grouper that he could grill. When the fish was brought in, we saw that it was huge! We thought the money we had brought for the evening wouldn’t be enough. When the bill came, we realized that was true. But, the owner said there was no problem. I offered to go to the hotel to get more cash, but that was out of the question. Pay tomorrow, he suggested.

The next day, we went back to do the right thing and also have lunch. The owner was sitting in the shade drinking ouzo. He smiled at us almost blissfully. His wife told us that her husband was happy on this particular day. We understood that he often had such happy moments.

When we asked for the bill, they apologized for selling us a fish that was way too big, so we didn’t have to pay the full amount. The man was in a particularly good mood that day, so he offered us even drinks for lunch. We’ve eaten sfyrida several times since then and always think of the fish tavern on Kalymnos.

Philotimo is a wonderful concept! It means showing empathy, compassion and generosity towards fellow human beings without expecting anything in return. We’ve experienced this many times in Greece, including in this lovely restaurant on Kalymnos in 1984.

Relaterade artiklar

In this Part 2 of my roamings, I will continue with a few more entries about the first trips I made to the country whose charm I have not been able to resist ever since. With the hope that the trips to Greece will become ever more frequent in the years to come..

1978. Road trip instead of island hopping

Stockholm – Germany – Belgium – France – Switzerland – Italy – Yugoslavia – Greece Halkidiki – Kavala – Thassos – Alexandroupolis – Istanbul – Bulgaria – Hungary – Austria – Germany.

In 1978 I had plans to make a longer trip as I had the possibility to be on vacation for 6 – 7 weeks in the summer. Together with three good friends we decided to attempt a road trip through Europe. Our vague goal was to get as far as Istanbul, if now the car would do the job. We had bought a Ford Transit for a good price and rebuilt it so that all four of us could sleep in it, if necessary.

The basic idea was that we would drive on small roads as much as possible.
After the long journey through Germany, the Netherlands, Belgium, France, Switzerland, Italy, and Yugoslavia, we finally crossed the Yugoslav-Greek border. By that time, 4-5 weeks had already passed since we left Sweden and started our journey through Europe. Thus, Greece became just a part of our travel.

Kavala – Thasos – Chalkidiki

When we arrived in Greece, we realized that the time would not be enough for a visit to Istanbul if we lingered in the country. That meant that there was not much time for Greece this time. I had already been quite short in Thessaloniki a couple of times in previous years, and unfortunately also this time the visit there became short. However, we managed to see parts of Halkidiki (Kassandra and Sithonia), as well as charming Kavala.

We also stayed a few days on Thasos, a nice island that was still almost completely unexploited. On Thasos we found entirely untouched nature and empty beaches and we were able to gather some peace and calm that we thought would be needed in Istanbul. I also remember a stop for lunch in the town of Alexandroupolis, before it was time to head towards Mikligarðr / Constantinople / Istanbul. But that is a completely different story.

From Istanbul we drove home through Bulgaria, Yugoslavia, Hungary, Austria, Germany and Denmark. We had traveled about 8,500 miles, and the car was still working! Much thanks to small local auto-repair shops, some oil, a few kicks, some more oil and a lot of love.

1979. A return to Greece – first visit to Amorgos

Stockholm – Copenhagen – Hamburg – Munich – Athens – Amorgos – Sifnos – Athens – Amsterdam

In the summer of 1979 it was time for island-hopping in Greece again. It would be my fourth time visiting the country. After the long road trip in 1978, I felt that it would be perfect with another train and interrail trip, my fourth and probably last. (It may of course happen that we will dust off our backpacks and hit the rails of Europe again, a thought which has become increasingly tempting in recent years).

It started with music recordings

Already in 1977, I had decided to visit lesser known Greek islands on my next trip. During those years, I was working on an essay for my university class in musicology, together with a group of other students. A large part of our work involved recording the music of various immigrant groups in Stockholm. It was a truly enjoyable job that allowed us to discover a plethora of good and exciting music. Several of the bands we recorded were Greek and it was through them that I got the valuable tips about Amorgos and Sifnos.

Amorgos – love at first sight

Well, it may not have been the very first sight, because the arrival at the port of Katapola took place in the middle of the night, after perhaps 12 – 13 hours trip on the worn ferry Agios Georgios. Most ferries that went to the smaller islands often had difficult arrival times, as I remember. It was pitch black night when we stepped ashore, so we didn’t see much of the island.

At the pier, me and many other people spontaneously ended up on a very old bus. It was a 1957 Dodge, as one of the passengers said. In this late hour, without thinking too much, I decided that I would go to Chora, the main village, which was about 20 – 25 minutes up in the mountains (today the same trip takes maybe 10 minutes).

Chora and Katapola

The bus stopped, around four in the morning, in front of the cafe/tavern To Kastro. It was a place that later on would mean a lot to me, but at the time I didn’t know that. The next challenge was to find somewhere to sleep. I had traveled with Terje, a Norwegian guy I had met on the train, and we quickly decided to follow a local woman, Maria, who offered rooms to rent. So before we really knew what had happened, in just a few minutes, we had a roof over our heads, right in the very heart of Chora.

I still remember waking up in this amazing village, as beautiful as the pictures on all the postcards you’ve seen from Greece. Whitewashed houses, narrow alleys, donkeys and friendly people. It immediately became clear that I had found the right place. For sure, Ios was beautiful, as was Corfu, but Chora on Amorgos was even more outstanding! I immediately had an overwhelming feeling of being at home!

This first time I stayed almost three weeks in Chora, but changed accommodation a couple of times. When Terje went back home, I shared a room with Jesper, a nice Dane, and Phil, an Australian (as well as with an unnamed mouse that happily ate of our bread).
We tourists, or travelers as many chose to call themselves, quickly got into the village life. In those days there were not too many taverns or cafes, let alone bars, so you often ended up in the same place as everyone else. The social hub of the village was the cafe/tavern To Kastro, which was located where the bus from Katapola had its final stop. Here we slowly but surely got to know people. I often had the opportunity to chat with Parvas and his family, who ran the tavern.

Swimming in the Big Blue

During the days, we spent most of our time swimming. There were several options to choose from. The closest, just below Chora, was Agia Anna, a beautiful rocky shore where parts of the movie The Big Blue were filmed. Other times we took the old bus to the harbour village of Katapola, and from there boarded a small boat out to the rocks, where you could swim naked if you wanted to – although some times the police disagreed with us about the latter. Occasionally, we would hike down to Katapola, which was a unique experience, especially if you chose to follow the donkey trail, although such walk took its own time.

After the wonderful dives and swims we enjoyed during the day, many of us would gather at the central square of Katapola. There you could sit down in one of the three cafés: To Kamari, The Pirate or Nikoletta’s, in order to get some food and drinks. The whole square looked different back then, still unaffected by the hotels later built, or the sun-shields and ceilings the cafés were covered with the years to come. It was an open and simple meeting place.

To Kamari, is today run by Michalis, son of Georgios and Evangelia, the couple who started the tavern/café at that time. Maria, the daughter of the family, became an important person for us tourists as she spoke good English and could act as an interpreter. To Kamari still feels to me like the center of Katapola, although today they no longer serve so much prepared food, apart for some good pies and pastries. We loved to sit outside those taverns/cafes after swimming in the azure sea and sunbathing on the flat rocks.

Most of the time, the bus driver honked the horn at us Chora residents, that it was time to go up the mountain. But even driver-Vangelis sometimes needed to res,t and then we had to go with a truck. We sat on the back of the truck, on wooden benches. A canopy was also set up as protection from the sun and wind.

Already after a couple of days, I knew that Amorgos was the place I had been looking for. In that time, you didn’t meet many tourists there, neither in Chora nor in Katapola.

Aegiali

It took me a while to realize that there was another very nice part of the island, Aegiali/Αιγιάλη. This first year, however, I didn’t make it all the way there.

At that time, there were no car roads, so you had to take a ferry between the two ports of the island, or walk for about 4-5 hours on ridge trails over the mountains. At the end of the 1970s, the ferry Marianna was the lifeline between the small Cycladic islands and Naxos (Marianna was a Norwegian fjord boat that originally was called Vaeröy). The owner and captain of the ship was the later legendary Skopelitis, who was also a very talented violinist.

The larger ferries served both Katapola and Aegiali, but in the 1970s, the latter port could not harbour the ships in the small quay. Instead, the passengers had to jump or climb from the ferry down to the small boats, latzes/λάντζες, which transported the passengers ashore. Quite a nasty experience sometimes, especially in strong winds. More about Aegiali in the next episode of my Greek roamings (part 3).

Although I had already fallen in love with the country of Greece, I now also fell in love with the island of Amorgos. I knew I would return. And with a little hindsight, I can say that there have been over thirty revisits since then.

1979. Sifnos

I had promised myself to visit two islands this summer. Again, I traveled alone, but when I remember those trips, I think that I was never really alone. I met people constantly throughout my journey – some completely new acquaintances, or some already familiar faces encountered along the way. I now had only 10 days left to explore a new island before my train would depart heading North. I also wanted to stay a few days in Athens, my favorite city. Several people I met on Amorgos praised Sifnos as a fantastic island. So it became my next stop on this, my fourth, Greek odyssey.

I came to Sifnos directly after Amorgos in August 1979 and was quite heartbroken about having to leave my newfound love behind. But Sifnos turned out to be a wonderful balm for my heartache, even if the encounter with this island was not as strong as the one with Amorgos. From the northwestern port of Kamares, I took a very old bus straight to the mountain village of Kastro, via the slightly larger settlement of Apolonia.

The village of Kastro had been described to me as very picturesque and beautiful, and it really was! A fantastic place with only two minor disadvantages – there was a lack of accommodations offered, and no real restaurant to find. But we quickly discovered a small grocery store / παντοπωλείον, which sometimes served simple dishes in its beautiful garden. In addition, there was a small taverna at the tiny beach, just below Kastro. Simple food was often offered there, although it could take an awfully long time to get any order in.

One evening, I ordered potatoes and meatballs. The tasty potatoes arrived after maybe only 20 – 30 minutes, while the meatballs took so long that I forgot about them (perhaps because of the delicious retsina that you had to serve yourself). But when the meatballs finally did arrive, after almost 2 – 3 hours waiting, they were tasty, carefully seasoned, and prepared with love.

During the 5 – 6 days I spent on Sifnos, I stayed most of the time in this small village of Kastro, with a minor break for a bank visit in Apolonia. I had managed to find a kind of basement abode to live in, which I shared with a Norwegian couple. A simple and discreet retreat but with a magnificent view. In the east you could even see the island of Antiparos when it was not too hazy.

Kastro was truly a gem, where the villagers seemed to have little interest in exploiting their community for the sake of tourism. On my visit in the summer of 1979 there were perhaps 10-15 tourists, mostly from Norway, and we all enjoyed the local society. I was lucky enough to be there on August 15th, when the Virgin Mary’s Ascension Day is celebrated, and had the chance to experience the beautiful ceremony and feast/πανηγύρι in the whitewashed alleys of the village.

I promised myself that I would return to explore Sifnos more thoroughly, which I did many years later. I visited the island with my wife and children, and that time we became very fond of another village, Faros, on the south-eastern side of the island, where we stayed for a week. With Faros as a base, we got the chance to explore larger parts of the whole beautiful island.

Last year, 2023, we came back to Sifnos again. This time we only stayed three nights in the arrival port of Kamares. But we had time for a wonderful hike over the mountains between Apolonia and Kamares.

Sifnos definitely has an obvious place on our list of favorites in Greece.

The 1980s begins

The trip of 1979 brought an end to the era of traveling by train or car. Interrail had become a lifestyle where the journey was as much a part of the destination as the actual destination of the trip. In the early 1980s, however, I felt too old for Interrail. I also wanted to stay a little longer in Greece than the 3 weeks I managed in the previous years, as the train journey itself took about a week in total.

In the forthcoming chapters of my wanderings, cheap flights will play the main role in how I travel. But it is during those coming years that my love for Greece and especially for the island of Amorgos really deepens.

The 1980s were the decade when I began to get to know Greece more in-depth.

Our visitors’ opinions and feedback have been taken seriously and major changes were made. Most excitingly, we have decided to release all the material for free also in English, for everyone to access. This is an important milestone for the expedition and we believe it’s the right way to go about spreading the knowledge and love for Greece and for Greek culture. So get on board the new Greek Expedition and explore the treasure trove that now is open for free also in English: https://greekexpedition.com/en

New home on the web

The entire platform has now been moved to this new .com-domain. This is an important transition making the expedition more accessible to a wider and more international audience. We are sailing towards new goals and after the Swedish and English version our plan is to translate the website into several other languages. Greek and German are the next targets on our map. Our aim is to reach even more Greconauts around the world who share our passion for the country.

Final words

Thank you for continuing to follow our journey! It will take you on ever new digital adventures through Greece’s rich and amazing culture. Don’t forget to keep an eye on our social media:

• Facebook page
• YouTube channel
• Instagram
• LinkedIn

Material will be posted regularly as we move on

We wish you all a fantastic rest of the year filled with exciting adventures and discoveries! Looking forward to continue sharing our Greece with you.
/The Crew – Expedition Greece