The Hellas Herald – part of Greek Expedition

• How did the outside world perceive Greece in the 19th century, as the young nation began to take shape?
• What role did travel writers and artists play in shaping the image of this new Greece?
• What do the news columns tell us about 19th-century Greece, a time when it was viewed by many as an almost exotic destination?

In our new series, Hellas Herald, we are delving into travelogues, art, poetry, and contemporary newspaper archives, we are piecing together a mosaic of voices to approach the questions surrounding Greece in the 19th century.

We begin our search through this archival treasure trove with the story of the fearless artist Elisabeth Jerichau-Baumann. A long-forgotten article in Göteborgs-Posten, a Swedish newspaper, from October 30, 1880, left us speechless before the adventures of this fascinating Polish-Danish artist.

Elisabeth Jerichau-Baumann (1819–1881)

Elisabeth Jerichau-Baumann was a Danish-Polish artist who painted with a burning creative fervor and lived driven by an appetite for adventure that could not be contained by the narrow female ideals of her time.

With immense energy, she took 19th-century Europe by storm. After giving birth to nine children between 1847 and 1861, she embarked on her great international travels. Today, we will follow her intense journeys through the starkly contrasting landscapes of the Orient and Southern Europe. She spent a great deal of time in Greece during the 19th century.

Reader’s tip: At the end of this article, we take a look at the 19th-century advertising market – hilariously entertaining! 👇

The path to European artistic life

As a young artist, Elisabeth Jerichau-Baumann tried to adapt to a Danish cultural climate characterized by strong national romantic currents. She became known as one of the most typical representatives of the style in Danish art. Since the art academies of the time did not allow female students, she was mostly self-taught through extensive independent studies.

Later, she moved to Rome, where she quickly became part of the German artist colony. It was also there that she met the Danish sculptor Jens Adolf Jerichau, whom she married. Her husband’s own erotically charged statues gave her the courage to ignore the local narrow-mindedness and pursue her own sensual style of painting, despite the great social risks for a woman in the 19th century.

Although she kept Rome as her fixed base, she was constantly on the move. Her own books, Ungdomserindringer (1874) and Brogede Rejsebilleder (1881), provide vivid, albeit strongly romanticized, depictions of the colorful and international artistic life of that time.

From the world of fairy tales to royal courts

In these circles, H.C. Andersen also moved, who had traveled in Greece in the 19th century as well.

Elisabeth immortalized the storyteller in a painting where he reads to her own children. But her connection to Andersen and his works did not stop there. She also created a series of acclaimed paintings with mermaid motifs and gifted one of these works to him.

Her ability to capture life and character quickly made her sought after among the absolute elite of Europe. Before Elisabeth turned her gaze eastward, she had already won great recognition and secured prestigious commissions from royals across the entire continent.

Travel in Greece in the 19th century

She soon felt cramped by Danish cultural life. Her temperament and great ambitions required more space than the North could offer. She packed her brushes and headed east, towards environments completely different from the usual European artistic hubs. Ahead of her waited a colorful and perilous existence that stretched from the royal court in Athens and encounters with outlaws in the mountains of Attica to the closed doors of the sultan’s harem in Constantinople.

The Royal Court in Athens

In Athens, she quickly charmed the Greek royal couple, George I and Queen Olga. That the young king was a Danish prince by birth became Elisabeth’s perfect ticket to the palace.
Soon she was sitting in the royal salons, portraying the court in a city that was transforming into a new, modern metropolis. With her unfailing charm and courage, Elisabeth stepped straight into the corridors of power without hesitation. She not only managed to win the royal family’s trust, but also became a frequent chronicler of the rest of Athenian society, where the ancient heritage met the new, colorful elite of the 19th century.

The outlaws in the mountains of Attica

Traveling in Greece in the 19th century was not risk-free, and the mountains of Attica hid dangers that required a completely different kind of courage than the quiet salons of Athens. Her choice to paint out in the open was at this time very unusual in Greece, especially for a woman, because the countryside was constantly threatened by lawless bands of outlaws. These bands of outlaws were a genuine social plague that paralyzed the countryside, but they were also deeply intertwined with the local politics of the time.

For the still young nation, the bandits were merely criminals who threatened the security of the state. But among the people, they were often seen as heirs to the old freedom fighters of the revolution, the klephts and armatoles, who protected the local population against the exercise of state power. Elisabeth Jerichau-Baumann refused to let herself be stopped by the dangers in this charged environment.

She bravely ventured into the mountains to immortalize “native Greek bandits and outlaws.” Although these specific paintings have been lost to the shadows of history, newspaper articles from the 1880s testify to a courage that lacked precedent in the European salons of the time.

In Göteborgs-Posten, her dramatic and contrast-filled time in 19th-century Greece is described as follows:

📜 She spent some time at the court of the King of Greece, occupied mostly with painting portraits, portraits of kings, queens, and princes, but also of native Greek bandits and outlaws.

The secrets of the Ottoman harems

Elisabeth did not stay long with the Greek royal couple. She sought to travel further east to Constantinople, where she achieved the rare feat of gaining access, as a Western woman, to the city’s otherwise completely closed Ottoman harems.

The journey then continued even further south, to Egypt, where, on the outskirts of Cairo, she found new motifs that continued to challenge the European audience’s view of the women of the Orient.

Her paintings from there differed radically from the exotic fantasies of contemporary male artists. Because she had actually spent time close to the women, she did not portray them as anonymous objects, but with a rare psychological depth, dignity, and a vibrant light that captivated the art world.

The echoes of the era in the printing presses

Her life and career continued to fascinate long after she had left the Mediterranean, which is clearly visible in the contemporary press. During the 1880s, her achievements were written about with great admiration in Swedish media. When Elisabeth Jerichau-Baumann exhibited her works in Gothenburg in the autumn of 1880, it attracted great attention.

In Göteborgs-Posten, the exhibition was described as an event where the art was studied with “lively interest and great pleasure.” The writer reflected on her artistic development and the unique experiences she had gathered during her travels:

📜 Afterwards, she stayed in Constantinople and gained access to Mustapha Fazil Pasha’s harem, where she portrayed his beautiful daughter on behalf of the Princess of Wales. In the collection she has now exhibited, there are also portraits of several beautiful harem ladies, but with fictitious names—a delicacy toward the amiable ‘hanums’ (princesses), which was probably less dictated by their own desire than by the moral laws of Muhammad…

Through these words from 1880, the image of an artist emerges who not only mastered her choice of color and lighting but also navigated a complex world with an unusual sensitivity for cultural conventions.

A life in the service of art

Elisabeth Jerichau-Baumann was a force of nature who proved that a woman with a paintbrush could be just as quick-witted, powerful, and unstoppable as her most celebrated male colleagues. At her passing, her life’s work and her rebellious spirit were celebrated. She is still considered by many to be a true pioneer.

Her contemporaries remembered her not only for her canvases, but for the vitality she radiated until the very end. In one of the obituaries, it was described how she, at a large banquet in Gothenburg’s finest reception hall, had captivated her audience:

📜 She captivated everyone with the fiery and captivating immediacy with which she took the floor in a gathering of five hundred people… it would have taken more to break her immense energy, which was based on the most sincere conviction that a true artistic talent resided within her.

It is a moving description of a woman who, until her very last breath, lived with “her usual liveliness,” her warm devotion to art, and her flashing brilliance.

The analog noise of the 1880s

Before we put a period to this first issue of Hellas Herald, we linger for a moment over the newspapers of that time, consisting of long vertical columns. The contrasts in the media climate of the 19th century are striking; when we study old newspapers, such as Sydsvenska Dagbladet Snällposten, we see how news reporting, cultural advertisements, and commercials for daily necessities jostled for space on the same surface.

It is a reminder that the newspaper reader of the past was met by an entirely different kind of “analog noise” than today’s digital feeds. Right next to notices about art auctions and cultural events were advertisements for everything from military associations to the home remedy “Parasiticida.”

Reading a page from that time is like stepping into a world where the sublime – such as the art of Elisabeth Jerichau-Baumann – constantly had to share the stage with the more grounded, and for us sometimes purely absurd, concerns of everyday life.

Related article

The Greek islands between the 16th and 20th centuries, part 1

Modern-day Loutraki stretches along the coastline almost to the Corinth Canal, lined with tall apartment blocks, countless hotels, wide pavements, and a constant flow of cafés, bars, and tavernas. It’s a lively and popular destination – but not a town that appeals to everyone aesthetically, especially not to those in search of charm or architectural beauty.

A spa town with grandeur

But Loutraki has another layer – a history that’s easy to overlook behind the beachfront bars. In the late 19th and early 20th century, a grand vision took shape: to create an exclusive spa resort for the upper classes, complete with elegant bathhouses and a casino that drew guests from across Europe.

Graceful buildings in neoclassical and European styles lined the town’s streets, carrying a sense of continental confidence – pillars, balustrades, domes facing the sea. Loutraki was never just a beach town. It was a spa town with elegance and grandeur.

But the splendour didn’t last. During the 20th century, Loutraki was struck by a series of devastating earthquakes that shook the town to its core, time and again. What had once been built to impress – with marble, ornamentation, and a gaze fixed on the sea – was repeatedly reduced to rubble.

Here and there along the seafront, old hotel buildings still appear – abandoned or half-restored – many of them once prime examples of eclectic architecture. They whisper of a bygone era, where faded elegance and lost pride still linger in the façades and the once-luxurious verandas overlooking the sea.

Pigi – the original spring

A few steps further along the seafront, next to the small Byzantine church dedicated to Agios Andreas – Loutraki’s patron saint – lies the true heart of old Loutraki. This site, which once formed the centre of the town’s identity as a spa resort, includes the original spring, Pigi, and the semi-circular 1930s building that surrounds it. The fact that it has now been partially restored and reopened to visitors came as a very welcome surprise on our last trip.

The building doesn’t merely house the original spring – it seems to have grown out of the rock itself. The cliff from which the spring water flows juts out into the centre of the room, surrounded by columns and mosaics, as if the architecture is honoring the very presence of nature.

The semi-circular building was designed by Leonidas Bonis and magnificently adorned with colourful mosaics by the artist Stefanos Xenopoulos from Zakynthos, together with his students.

The building was constructed between 1931 and 1934, at a time when Loutraki was rising again after the 1928 earthquake and reaffirming its role as a spa resort. Inside, where the water still trickles from the rock, lies a small pool framed by a simple, harmonious row of columns.

Splendid mosaic and ancient mythology

The vivid mosaics inside the building form a poetic tribute to water, light, and mythology. Visitors are greeted by water nymphs – Nereids – at both the entrance and the exit. Beneath the central dome, a magnificent scene unfolds: the sun god Helios, riding his four-horse chariot, sweeps across the sea while the figure of night slowly recedes.

Around the dome, the forest nymphs – Dryads – dance through a bucolic landscape filled with movement, vegetation, and music. Satyrs play their flutes, and from one side, Pan himself lets his melody drift gently into the room.

The mosaics’ vivid colour palette – with gold, blue, terracotta, and deep green tones – brings each scene to life with warmth and vibrancy. The motifs are not random: they follow a clear narrative structure – beginning, middle, and end – with nature and the healing water taking centre stage.

The thermal springs of Loutraki today: the modern thermal spa

The thermal springs of Loutraki have been the town’s lifeline for over two thousand years – from ancient Thermai to today’s modern bathing culture. The historic source, Pigi, still bears traces of another era, but the tradition lives on in a new form.

At Loutraki Thermal Spa, visitors are offered water-based therapies, massage, and relaxation in bright, contemporary settings where the mineral-rich water still takes centre stage. Here, the old meets the new – hydrotherapy and treatments rooted in an ancient tradition, adapted to today’s needs for rest, stress relief, and restored balance.

As you leave Loutraki behind and follow the road westward, another coastal site awaits – lesser known, yet with a history that also reaches back into distant times. In our next article, we visit Heraion, a somewhat forgotten sanctuary dedicated to the goddess Hera, built right by the sea, where you can swim just beside the ancient marble.

💧 Facts: The thermal springs of Loutraki

Water properties:
– Chloride-sodium composition
– Low mineral content (oligometallic)
– Slightly alkaline (pH 7.2–7.3)
– Mildly radioactive
– Temperature: 30.4–34.5 °C
– Radioactivity: 14 Mache units

Traditionally used to treat:
– Arthritis and chronic rheumatism
– Herniated discs and spondylitis
– Arteriosclerosis and high blood pressure
– Gallstones and kidney stones
– Digestive disorders, chronic constipation, and obesity
– Diabetes, chronic hepatitis, and pyelonephritis (kidney inflammation)

Sources

• Loutraki Municipal Thermal Spa
• The Greek newspaper Kathimerini about Loutraki
• Loutraki blog
• Loutraki Thermal Spa

Related articles under the category: Explorations →

A large part of these testimonies could have been lost if it weren’t for institutions like the Aikaterini Laskaridis Foundation. The foundation is a center for research and education, dedicated to promoting Greek culture both nationally and internationally. Its work covers a wide range of fields, from literature and history to maritime research and the preservation of historical documents.

Part of their digital initiative is Travelogues, a project led by historian Ioli Vingopoulou. The platform collects material from travel accounts about the Greek islands and the entire Eastern Mediterranean from the 15th century onward. Its purpose is to provide researchers and the general public with access to these unique testimonies while highlighting Greek culture and history in an international context.

For those interested in exploring further, Travelogues is also available in English: http://eng.travelogues.gr/

Travelers in the Greek Islands (1500–1900)

The travelers who journeyed through the Aegean Sea from the 16th century to the early 20th century did so for many different reasons. Some were pilgrims on their way to the Holy Land, others were diplomats on missions to the Ottoman capital. Merchants sought new markets, scholars and lovers of antiquity mapped the region’s history, and from the mid-19th century onward, journeys made purely for leisure became increasingly common.

The Greek islands lay along these sea routes but did not form a unified world. Some were under Venetian or Genoese control, while others were subject to the Ottoman Empire. Regardless of the ruling power, travelers often encountered a reality that differed from their expectations. They sought the lost antiquity but also discovered a vibrant archipelago where people struggled, worked, and adapted to the conditions set by nature and history. Some islands were nearly deserted, while others thrived through trade and seafaring. Through their testimonies, we gain insight into both sides of the Greek islands in the Aegean Sea.

This article is a first glimpse into the stories and images preserved from the travelers’ time in the Greek islands. Here, we highlight selected moments and accounts that offer a sense of the world they encountered – an exploration we will delve deeper into in the upcoming parts. All material in this article is published with permission from the Laskarides Foundation.

Syros

During the 19th century, Syros underwent an incredibly dramatic transformation. From being relatively unknown among the Greek islands, it became one of the Mediterranean’s most important commercial centers. Here, East, and West converged in a bustling hub of trade and culture.

J. Emerson Tennent was an Irish politician and lawyer. His travel accounts are a blend of travel narrative and political reflections, often based on second-hand information. His work includes one of the earliest views of Syros, from a time when the island was establishing itself as an important port in the Aegean Sea.

Among the journeys he describes is the voyage aboard the steamship Francesco I, the first cruise in the Eastern Mediterranean, organized by the architect Marchebeus in 1833 and later recounted in his travel chronicle from 1839.

The work of photographer F. F. Boissonnas, from the early 20th century, was groundbreaking in the history of photography. His images of Syros and other locations unite landscapes and people in perfect harmony.

During the second half of the 19th century, Syros gained increased attention in the European press. British newspapers such as The Illustrated London News and The Graphic published detailed wood engravings depicting the island’s landscape, population, and social life. These images, based on travelers’ sketches and notes, provided a wider audience with a visual insight into both everyday life on Syros and major events in the Greek world, ranging from political upheavals to natural disasters.

Patmos

In 1801, mineralogist Edward Daniel Clarke and his travel companions visited the monastery on Patmos, where they were granted permission to enter its library. What they encountered was a chaotic collection of books and manuscripts, where dust, moths, and mold had begun to take over.

Note: The text is a summary of an extensive article in Lifo magazine about the Laskarides Foundation’s online sessions on the Greek islands before modernization.

On the shelves stood printed books, which the monks valued most, while the hand-written manuscripts lay in disordered piles on the floor. Among them, traveler Clarke made some astonishing discoveries: a forgotten Platonic dialogue, a lexicon by Cyril of Alexandria, and volumes of ancient Greek hymns, complete with early musical notation. The monks agreed to sell some of the manuscripts—but only under the condition that the transaction be kept secret from the island’s inhabitants.

But the deal did not go as planned. As the travelers’ ship was ready to set sail and the manuscripts had yet to be delivered, they believed they had been deceived. Then, a man appeared on the shore with a large basket and gave a discreet signal. A boat was sent out to him, and he called out that he was delivering bread.

Edward Daniel Clarke himself describes in detail how the exchange took place:

“The man came aboard, cast a meaningful glance at us, and said loudly, ‘The Hegumen (Prior) has ordered me to take the basket back empty, and he asks that you count the loaves to ensure they are correct.’ We understood at once. We hurried aside, overturned the basket, and to our delight found Plato’s dialogue, Cyril’s lexicon, and other manuscripts. We quickly hid them, handed back the basket along with a small bakshish (tip), and everything went exactly as we had hoped.”

However, the smuggling affair did not remain a secret. The incident caused a scandal, and as early as the following year, 1802, an inscription in hexameter verse was carved at the library’s entrance. It reads:

“Within lie brilliant manuscripts.
To the wise man, they are more precious than gold.
Therefore, preserve them with the greatest care,
More than your own life.
For thanks to these writings, the monastery has become radiant.”

A Danish woman on Sikinos, 1850

In the 19th century, Greece was ruled by King Otto and Queen Amalia. The queen had a Danish personal pastor whose wife was Christiane Lüth. During her thirteen-year stay in the country, she frequently traveled around the Greek islands in the Aegean Sea. In her writings, she refrains from using academic terms, describing the people and islands in a simple, clear manner with a friendly and objective tone.

We arrived at the island of Sikinos around noon and found a simple harbor with two old boats. After some persuasion, we managed to get donkeys and began ascending a steep hill toward the village under the hot sun. We paused for a while at a well, where the view was vast and clear.

In the village, we were greeted by the Health Officer on a terrace, and we were soon surrounded by villagers who offered us coffee. The mayor arrived and invited us to his house, where his wife spoke to us kindly.

We also visited the church of Episkopi, built on an ancient temple dedicated to Apollo. Columns and marble from the old pagan temple are still prominently visible in and around the church building. On the way there, the priest offered us bread, olives, and raw beans. On the way back from the church, we visited a young weaver and had the chance to see her craftsmanship.

When we returned to the village, we were once again met by the mayor and the villagers. They wanted to hear about our excursion and what we thought of their island.

Note: The text above is a summary of an extensive article in Lifo magazine about the Laskarides Foundation’s online sessions on the Greek islands before modernization.

Paros

Choiseul-Gouffier, a French nobleman and travel writer, visited Paros during his first journey to Greece in 1776. In Voyage pittoresque de la Grèce, he described how the island’s marble, renowned for its purity and transparency, had once shaped some of Greece’s greatest works of art.

However, he was not only fascinated by the island’s marble quarries but also by its local life, documenting both landscapes and people. His accounts spread across Europe, helping to enhance the island’s mythical status as a place where the ancient heritage still lived.

Santorini

The volcanic island of Santorini, otherworldly and captivating, followed the same historical fate as the rest of the Cyclades, transitioning from Venetian to Ottoman rule. After centuries of foreign dominion, the island became part of the modern Greek state in the 19th century. It was during this period of change that Christopher Wordsworth published his richly illustrated work, Greece, Pictorial, Descriptive. More a historical account than a travel narrative, it gained significant popularity with the public.

Christopher Wordsworth was a distinguished classical scholar and Bishop of Lincoln. He traveled through Greece in 1832–1833 and was the first British citizen to be received by King Otto.

Wordsworth documented his travels through meticulous archaeological observations, with vivid depictions of the places he visited at the forefront. By connecting modern locations with their ancient counterparts, Wordsworth provides us with a captivating portrayal of Greece’s history. His work combines intellectual rigor with personal enthusiasm, making it a fascinating read for those wishing to explore Greece’s rich past through the eyes of a knowledgeable traveler.

The beginning of a longer journey

Here we conclude the first stage of our expedition through Greece, seen through the eyes of foreign travelers. Their diaries, sketches, and letters have revived an Aegean landscape long reshaped by the passage of time—but the glimpses we have shared are merely the beginning of a much more extensive account.

We will delve deeper into these travelers’ experiences and observations in future articles. We will follow their paths through communities, villages, ancient ruins, and coastal landscapes that have since undergone significant changes. The travelers’ documentation serves as an important historical resource, shedding light on cultural traditions, architecture, and everyday life from a time when travel was reserved for a privileged few.

By comparing their accounts with today’s reality, we also gain perspective on the development of tourism in the region—both its contribution to economic growth and its profound impact on local communities. Their notes and images thus become a valuable reference point for understanding the transformation of the islands over the past centuries.

Sources:

Texts, images, photographs, and maps are published with permission from the Aikaterini Laskaridis Foundation. The material is based on the Foundation’s extensive archives, where the travelers’ testimonies are documented: https://www.laskaridisfoundation.org/en/

Argyro Bozonis’s article in Lifo magazine has also been an important reference in this compilation.

Further Reading:

The website TravelTrails is a collaboration between the Aikaterini Laskaridis Foundation and the Gennadius Library. The site serves as a comprehensive database of travel accounts from the Eastern Mediterranean between the 16th and 20th centuries. It is available in Greek, Turkish, and English: https://traveltrails.gr.

Related Articles

By comparing these historical accounts with modern travel narratives, we gain a unique perspective on how the islands and the experience of traveling have changed over the centuries. For those curious about what it was like to explore the Greek islands in more recent times, the article series Uffe’s Greek Wanderings is recommended. It depicts island life during the 1970s and 1980s—a period when mass tourism had just begun, yet the islands still retained much of their traditional character.

• Ulf’s carefree Greek roamings, part 1
• Ulf’s carefree Greek roamings, part 2
• Ulf’s carefree Greek roamings, part 3

The following text is a slightly revised version of an article by journalist Dimitris Hatzis from 2010, originally published in the magazine Εναλλακτικός Τουρισμός/Alternative Tourism. The text serves as a valuable historical document, capturing the soul of Amorgos at that time. Unfortunately, the magazine was discontinued in 2011 due to the Greek economic crisis.

Several people mentioned in the text are no longer with us, but their memory lives on – both on the island and in the hearts of all who knew them.

By Dimitris Hatzis, journalist
Photos by Zois Louvaris, Georgios Xyftilis, Ulf Björkman

The Cyclades slowly fade into the distance. From the Blue Star ferry deck, I watch as the sun sinks below the horizon, painting the sky in enchanting hues. One by one, the islands slip out of sight, quietly renewing their ancient promise to reappear with the first light of dawn, adorning the traveler’s seafaring journey just as they have for millennia.

Amorgos is the last and most remote outpost of the Cyclades. Yet, the island is also one of the most distinctive. What is it about Amorgos that captures your heart and makes it so special and so beloved?

Join us to find out!

Faint at first and growing clearer the closer we came, Amorgos emerged from the blue light of the Aegean Sea. It was a massive, granite-like formation, a long, narrow mountainous island, so different from all the ones I had encountered before.

Yes, Amorgos gives the impression that some ancient god loved it and chose this very spot to gently place it on the sea. The island, with its beauty and welcoming embrace, generously offers the tenderness and joy needed for those who have traveled so far and faced many challenges to reach it.

Getting to know Amorgos

My visit to Amorgos allowed me to experience the island from The Big Blue during its best time of year, lush, blooming, and fragrant.

The blooming meadows, the beautiful mountain slopes, the steep peaks, the picturesque villages, the endless sandy beaches, and all around the intense blue sea create a scene that instantly captures your heart and ignites a desire to explore further—to discover the island’s world, its customs, traditions, and way of life.

It is the largest island among the island group known as the Small Cyclades, a favorite of many artists, poets, and other seekers and inspired individuals. A hospitable island where the grandeur of nature’s beauty harmoniously blends with the traditional lifestyle of its inhabitants, making it a unique destination for every traveler.

But even the flavors and melodies of Amorgos enchant the visitor. The festivities, along with the meze dishes, local wine, and raki, create the setting for entirely new experiences. The traditional drink rakomelo (warm raki with honey) might leave you “inebriated by the Big Blue.” Those who have experienced it know exactly what I mean.

Amorgos – a historical overview

Amorgos has been inhabited since ancient times. The Cycladic and Mycenaean civilizations have left their mark, which visitors can discover among the ruins of the ancient cities of Minoa, Arkesini, and Aigiali (Melania).

The island was colonized by inhabitants from Miletus and Naxos and participated in the First Athenian League. Control of Amorgos then passed to the Macedonians and later to the Ptolemies and Romans, until the Christianization of the island under Byzantine rule. The renowned Monastery of Panagia Chozoviotissa was founded in 1088 by Emperor Alexios I Komnenos and symbolizes the Byzantines’ long-standing presence on the island before Venetian and later Ottoman rule took over.

The villages of Amorgos

Chora

Around the hill with the windmills, built in a distinctly Cycladic style, lies Chora, the island’s main village, just one kilometer from Katapola, the port on the island’s southern side.

All of the picturesque cobblestone alleys lead to the central square, Loza, and the historic castle in Chora. It’s also worth visiting the archaeological collection at the Gavras Mansion, the small Fotodotis Christ Monastery, and the many whitewashed churches, such as Metropolis, Agioi Pantes, Vlysani, and several others.

Near Chora lies the renowned Monastery of Panagia Chozoviotissa, as well as the smaller Monastery of Agios Georgios Valsamitis and the famous Agia Anna beach, where parts of The Big Blue were filmed.

Katapola

Katapola is a wind-sheltered, safe, and natural harbor favored by many yachts and small boats that visit the area. The churches of Panagia Katapoliani and the Church of the Annunciation are of great interest. Above Katapola, you can see the ruins of ancient Minoa and the old dam at Lefkes. For swimming and relaxation, the picturesque beaches of Kato Akrotiri, Maltezi, Finikies, Tyrokomos, and Agioi Saranta are ideal.

Kato Meria

In the southern part of Amorgos, known as Kato Meria, in addition to the village that gave the area its name, you can also visit the villages Arkesini, Vroutsi, Kolofana, and the stunning beaches of Ammoudi, Mouros, Kalotaritissa, and Paradeisia. Lastly, the small island of Gramvousa lies at the southernmost tip of Amorgos, and you can easily reach it by a small boat.

Aigiali

After crossing the mountain range of Amorgos to the north, a distance of about 10.5 miles, I arrived in Aigiali, the island’s second port. It is a beautiful bay with turquoise waters that enchant the visitor. The port, village, sandy beaches, and the surrounding steep mountains create an impressive view that instantly captures both soul and heart. Many who arrive in Aigiali think, “This is where I want to stay.”

The villages Potamos, Langada, Tholaria

In the steep mountains high above Aigiali lies the village of Potamos, offering an outstanding panoramic view where you can experience one of the most beautiful sunsets in the Aegean Sea.

Langada is one of the most significant villages in the area and is a must-visit. It is located above the cultivated fields of Aigiali and is known for its historic church, Agia Triada, the Araklou Gorge, and the old windmills.

Opposite Langada lies the village of Tholaria, representing the island’s “Spartan” side and offering breathtaking views. Warm and hospitable people will give you a heartfelt welcome to their village. One of the most beautiful cafés in Greece, Kali Kardia (The Good Heart), located next to the main church, will make your heart skip a beat. Sofia, an exceptional individual, and her mother, Mrs. Pletto, will take care of you with the smiles and warmth that define them.

A little further up, Nikolas at the Panorama tavern will sing Amorgian melodies for you, accompanied by his sons, Stamatis on the violin and Paraskevas on the lute.

At the Choreftis (Dancer) café, Anargyros has been trying for years to master the board game tavli. If you know how to play, feel free to challenge him to a game, if you dare.

The beaches

The area is home to many beaches, with Levrossos, Psili Ammos, Vlychada, and Agios Pavlos standing out. The latter is located right across from the “guardian” of Aigiali bay, the small island of Nicouria, which stands out with its distinctive shape. There is also the main beach of Aigiali, with its countless love stories, where during magical and dreamlike nights, colorful dawns, and intoxicating moments, so many different people have experienced the same feeling of unrestrained freedom, Dionysian ecstasy, or simply, true life.

Every part of this endless beach holds something from all those who came to know it before the violent and homogenizing new reality of tourism’s modernization and commercialization swept in. Here, those who know will remember Michalis “Tyri,” Mitsaras with his bouzouki, the crew from the legendary black fishing boat Aldebaran, Nikos Koutis, Georgios “the Swede” and his company, and of course, our beloved kyra-Katina.

Hospitality, tradition, and family warmth

“To Limani tis kyra-Katinas Café and Restaurant” reads the sign outside Aigiali’s most famous restaurant. We spoke with Panagiotis, one of Katina and Antonis Nomikos’ two sons, who, together with his brother Theodoris, runs the place where thousands of visitors each year enjoy authentic Amorgian and Greek cuisine.

The restaurant is deeply associated with Aigiali, and it would not be an exaggeration to say that there isn’t a single visitor to the island who hasn’t been there.

“Tell us, Panagiotis, about the restaurant’s history.”

“The restaurant began its operation in 1980. My father was a cook on boats, and when he retired, we decided to open this restaurant. When we started, there wasn’t even electricity in Aigiali, and we worked with a generator. The food was cooked with gas, and the dishes that needed to be baked in an oven were taken to the village bakery’s oven on trays.”

“People took us to their hearts from the very beginning, perhaps because it was a family business or because my parents were very well-liked. It’s incredibly touching that people have been coming back to us for over 40 years!”

“My wife Lia and I now run the restaurant with my brother Theodoris and his wife Puki. We serve fresh fish and seafood, cheeses, meats, vegetables, and above all, pure, local products. Our goal is to maintain high quality in the food we serve.”

Alternative tourism

I had a pleasant conversation about alternative tourism activities with Vasilis Savvas at the Iris Center for Alternative Vacations, located at the famous tsimentaki, a small seafront walkway where past visitors to the island used to stroll, discuss, and reflect on life.

“When did you decide to settle permanently on Amorgos and work with alternative tourism?”

“I first came to Amorgos in 1982 and worked temporarily as a waiter. In 1992, I decided to settle here permanently, and in my search for something to do on the island, the Iris Center for Alternative Vacations gradually took shape.”

“We started as four people, but today it’s just me and Karin from Sweden who continue to run the center. However, we also have other collaborators. Instructors and teachers from both Greece and abroad come here, as do many visitors, both individually and in groups. They engage in activities like yoga, tai chi, chi gong, dance, astronomy, massage, meditation, and others.”

“Amorgos has always been an island that fosters an alternative lifestyle,” Vasilis continues. “It has a special character. Perhaps it’s the magnetism, the energy the island conveys to its visitors. It’s said to lie on one of the Earth’s energy lines, one of the so-called “ley lines,” and that may be why ancient peoples built so many temples and monuments on this island. There was even a famous water oracle in antiquity, in the area where the Monastery of Agios Georgios Valsamitis now stands.”

“What other alternative activities are available on the island?”

“Hiking, getting to know nature, climbing, and diving are some key activities. Additionally, there is a small astronomical observatory.”

Another unique feature of the island is the abundance of herbs with healing properties, which can be found almost everywhere on Amorgos. The island is also home to many migratory birds and small animals. Since the year 2000, the northern part of the island, above Langada and toward Cape Xodontas, has been included in the Natura program and will become a protected area.

On Amorgos, you can also experience unique festivities with a strong religious, social, and cultural character. During these celebrations, called panigyria, wine and traditional dishes such as xidato and patatato are generously offered. The festivities are always accompanied by traditional music, with local songs and instruments.

Amorgos hiking trails

Amorgos is an island of striking contrasts. Here, mountains and sea are in constant interplay. The towering mountains meet the foaming waves, while lush plains stretch down toward calm bays and beautiful beaches.

Hiking soothes the soul and rewards those who cross the island on stone-paved paths that have been walked for centuries, offering the chance to come into close contact with Amorgos’ nature, its historical monuments, and small villages.

The paths stretch across the entire island, and until the late 1980s, they were the main routes of communication for the inhabitants. Today, some of the main trails have been marked, and a special hiking map has been created.

A remarkable journey through time and tradition

Amorgos offers not only breathtaking landscapes and rich traditions but also an enchanting blend of history, culture, and natural experiences. It is a place where every step on the ancient trails, every encounter with the hospitable locals, and every meal made from local ingredients roots you deeper into the island’s unique soul. Whether you seek peace, adventure, or a journey into Greece’s past, Amorgos is a destination that will always surprise and captivate.

By Dimitris Hatzis, journalist
Photos by: Zois Louvaris, Georgios Xyftilis, Ulf Björkman

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The Environment Museum in Stymphalia is more than just a mere space of display; it serves as a gateway to the entire area’s unique mix of rich cultural heritage, historical and mythological significance and is framed by rare natural beauty. As promised in our article Off the beaten track in Northern Peloponnese, today we will explore this hidden gem and its surroundings.

To reach the museum from the south, we wind our way through breathtaking serpentine roads high in the mountainous regions of Corinthia. We are now eager to share our experiences from this captivating destination.

Stymphalia: where myth meets reality

Lake Stymphalia is situated on a high plateau between Kyllini (Ziria) and Oligyrtos mountains, with peaks over 6500 feet high. The lake is the Balkan Peninsula’s southernmost mountain wetland and presents a fantastic sight, especially in spring when the surrounding landscape explodes in vibrant hues.

The lake’s surface mirrors the sky and the surrounding mountains, while reeds and other dense vegetation dominate the shores. Sometimes veils of mist drift over the water, creating an enigmatic atmosphere, making it easy to understand why this place has such a prominent role in Greek mythology.

According to legend, Lake Stymphalia was the site of Hercules’ sixth labor, where he confronted the man-eating Stymphalian birds. The hero used bronze rattles, given by the goddess Athena, to drive the birds out of their hiding places in the dense vegetation and then defeat them with his arrows.
We’ll return to this legend in our series on Greek gods and mythology. Standing by the lake’s edge, it’s not hard to picture this epic battle unfolding across the misty waters.

Beyond its mythological significance, Lake Stymphalia is an important ecological habitat. It’s home to many birds, including the rare ferruginous duck (Aythya nyroca), a medium-sized duck known for its characteristic white eyes and ability to hide in the reeds. The lake also hosts endemic fish species such as Pelasgus stymphalicus, locally known as “Ντάσκα/dáska”. Growing up to 12 cm long, this small carp fish has adapted to survive by burying itself in the mud during dry periods.

Both these species are threatened, mainly due to loss of their habitats, pollution, and fishing or hunting. The area’s ecological importance and need for protection are recognized through Lake Stymfalia’s inclusion in the European network of protected areas, NATURA 2000.

As we walked around the lake, the stillness was broken only by birdsong, the whisper of the wind, and the soft lapping of water. The area offers many activities for visitors, including hiking on marked trails that pass historical sites, such as the ruins of the ancient town of Stymphalos. Birdwatching is particularly popular, and enthusiasts can see a variety of species including ducks, grebes, herons, and raptors. The European Euro Birdwatch Day has been held at Stymfalia several times.

The Environment Museum: a time travel in the ecosystem

Complementing the lake’s natural beauty is the Environment Museum of Stymphalia. As we approached the museum, we were immediately struck by its modern architecture. The building, skillfully constructed with concrete, stone, and wood, blends seamlessly into the surrounding landscape. Its glass facade offers a panoramic view of the lake and the forested mountain slopes beyond, creating a fantastic visual connection between the indoor exhibits and the living environment outside.

The Environment Museum opened in 2010 as part of The Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation – PIOP’s museum network, in collaboration with the EU and the Greek state. The network consists of seven different themed museums spread across Greece. Read more about other museums in the network here >>

We have previously covered the PIOPS museum network in our article on the silk town of Soufli:

A fascinating geology

The Environment Museum is divided into two main sections. The first focuses on the unique environment of the Stymfalia basin. Here we gained access to detailed information about the region’s fascinating geology, its status as an important wetland, and its rich biodiversity. The exhibits in this section excellently illustrate how land, water, and local flora and fauna have interacted over millennia.

What we found most striking was the smaller permanent exhibition Cross-section Through the Lake. This innovative display brings the lake’s ecosystem indoors, allowing visitors to observe local plants and fish up close. It’s a brilliant way to connect the inside of the museum with the living world outside its walls.

Human presence since time immemorial

Another section of the museum explores how humans have interacted with this environment throughout history. From the time of the ancient town of Stymphalos to today, people have found ways to coexist with nature in this unique landscape. The exhibits in this section focus on traditional occupations such as agriculture, fishing, and beekeeping – all shaped by the specific conditions of the Stymphalia basin.

The museum uses various modern means of expression and audiovisual tools to enhance the visitor’s experience. These multimedia elements elevate the experience without overshadowing the central message about the delicate balance between human activity and environmental conservation.

A harmonious blend of nature and culture

The museum terrace offers a great view of Lake Stymphalia, surrounded by the region’s majestic mountains and dense vegetation.

The museum gives visitors insight into the region’s ecosystem and a profound understanding of the relationship between humans and nature.

The permanent exhibitions offer an in-depth understanding of how the landscape and its biodiversity have been shaped by the interplay between nature and humans over centuries.

For travelers in northern Peloponnese, Lake Stymfalia and its Environment Museum offer an unexpected gem off the usual tourist trails. Here, myth and reality blend in a landscape that inspires and educates.

As we left the place, we felt our heads full of images from the enchanting landscape and our hearts filled with respect for the delicate balance between humans and nature that has characterized this place for millennia. Stymfalia is more than just a destination – it’s a reminder of the timeless connection between our cultural heritage and the nature that shaped it.

You can download the Environment Museum’s pdf guide here>>

Materials and photos courtesy of the: Pireus Bank Group Cultural Foundation
Sources: Wikipedia, PIOP

In the first part of our journey in northern Peloponnese, we had arrived at Mantineia, where the ancient ruins combined with the breathtaking scenery offered us an enchanting journey through the millennia. In this second part, we continue on winding roads through the magical plateau.

A remarkable sanctuary

In the heart of the mountain plateau lies a unique building with rather unusual architecture: the chapel of Agia Foteini, built during the 1970s. Its fascinating blend of Byzantine elements, ancient Greek architecture, and some modernist features makes it stand out as an odd monument in the middle of the high plateau.

The church was constructed using only recycled materials, which was unusual at the time it was built. The architect who led the work, Kostas Papatheodorou, considered this his life’s work and carefully oversaw every small detail.

Inside the church, there are icons and mosaics with motifs from both Christianity and Greek mythology. Here, saints are depicted as resembling ancient philosophers. Even the depictions of Jesus and the Virgin Mary have been given a more modern style than is customary in Orthodox iconography.

The Greek Church initially opposed these interventions, but the small church was eventually approved as an Orthodox temple. Today, Agia Foteini is a popular place for weddings and baptisms, appreciated for its unique architectural style and significant cultural value.

More about Agia Foteini and its creator here:

Kapsia Cave, a natural art gallery

After leaving the peculiar little church, we continue our journey through the mountain plateau of Mantineia, arriving at the relatively unknown Kapsia Cave. It is ranked as one of the ten most impressive caves in Greece and is admired for its unique and colorful stalactites and stalagmites. The cave system was discovered in 1887 by the French archaeologist Gustave Fougères and has since become a significant site for speleological research.

The “Hall of Miracles” is particularly notable for its fantastic formations in strong red, yellow, and blue hues.

Inside the cave, human bone remains and pottery have been found, testifying to a catastrophic flood in the Middle Ages when people sought refuge in the cave but were trapped and drowned. Excavations have also unearthed traces of older artifacts, indicating a human presence dating back to the Late Stone Age.

High up in the mountains of Morea

We now head upwards, along winding serpentine roads, into the mountainous regions of Northern Peloponnese, with peaks over 6500 feet high. To the west rises the majestic Erymanthos, to the east the impressive Kyllini mountain range, and to the north the Aroaneia mountains, also called Helmos. Among dramatic slopes and deep, forested valleys, we encounter a different world of magnificent natural beauty and ancient history.

Our destination is the springs of the Ladon River, celebrated as one of the most picturesque spots in the region. Crystal-clear water flows from these springs amidst lush greenery, creating an idyllic atmosphere. The river meanders through valleys filled with dense groves of plane trees, renowned for their exceptional natural beauty and the soothing sound of their pristine waters.

The ancient geographer and explorer Pausanias described Ladon as the most beautiful river on earth. Today, it is a popular destination for nature lovers and adventurers. Along the river, there are also several trout farms, where you can enjoy a meal beside the swift-flowing streams and absorb the area’s peaceful atmosphere.

German Fortifications from World War II

The German artillery fortifications from World War II appear here and there during our journey through the Northern Peloponnese, especially in strategically important locations. These remnants bear witness to a darker period in Greece’s history and remind us of the conflicts that have shaped the country. The decaying concrete bunkers and gun emplacements stand as silent witnesses to the war events that unfolded here. They give us insight into the geostrategic importance of these regions and remind us of the hardships the people endured during the days of war.

The vine of Pausanias

In the small village of Pagrati, just south of Ladon’s springs, we stop to view the legendary vine that Pausanias described as a remarkable phenomenon as early as 200 CE. Located in the municipality of Kalavryta, in Northern Peloponnese, this ancient vine is believed to be over 2,200 years old. Its total length is estimated to exceed 300 feet.

Over the centuries, the vine has grown tight together with other local plants and is now a protected natural monument. Although it doesn’t bear fruit, it blooms every spring and presents an impressive and rare sight. The vine’s twisted and gnarled branches spread across the large garden of the Agios Nikolaos church, making the place a unique and fascinating attraction to visit.

The Environment Museum of Stymphalia

After exploring many fascinating places on our journey in the Northern Peloponnese, we conclude our trip by visiting the outstanding Environment Museum at Lake Stymphalia. To get there, we once again travel on winding roads that cut through the incredibly beautiful landscape in the high mountain regions of the Corinth area.

On a plateau surrounded by majestic mountains lies the legendary Lake Stymphalia, famous for the heroic deed of Heracles in killing the man-eating Stymphalian birds. The Environment Museum lies like a hidden gem on the shores of the lake.

Lake Stymphalia is an important part of the region’s ecosystem and is included in the European network of protected areas, NATURA 2000. The Environmental Museum at Lake Stymphalia plays a crucial role in raising awareness about ecological balance and the need to protect the environment.

The museum is divided into two main sections: the first focuses on the environment and presents the region’s unique geology, flora, and fauna. The second describes how these natural conditions have influenced human activities such as agriculture, fishing, and beekeeping over the years.

The building, with its glass facade and panoramic view of the lake, harmonizes well with the surrounding landscape and offers a beautiful view of the whole area.

The museum uses various means of expression and audiovisual tools to enhance the visitor’s experience. One of the most impressive permanent exhibitions is a cross-section of the lake, where visitors can observe local plants and fish up close.

The Environment Museum opened in 2010 as part of The Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation – PIOP’s museum network, in collaboration with the EU and the Greek state. The network consists of seven different themed museums spread across Greece. Read more about the museum network here >>

A more detailed article about the museum, its exhibitions, and its significance to the region’s culture and environment you can find here:

You can also download the museum guide as a PDF here>>

Our journey continues

This journey through the Northern Peloponnese has been a deep dive into authentic Greece, where every step revealed new layers of its natural and cultural heritage. We have walked along ancient roads, encountered traces of mythological gods and heroes, and marveled at the diversity of the landscape. From quiet lakes and hidden beaches to abandoned train stations and war fortifications, each place has told its own unique story.

We have not only explored physical places but also traveled through layers of time, where each epoch has left its mark on the landscape. We have tasted local wines, wandered through ancient ruins, and experienced natural sceneries that have inspired poets and scientists.

But this was just the beginning. In future posts, we will dive even deeper into each specific place we’ve described here and explore even more of the versatile Peloponnesian peninsula.

Stay tuned for upcoming articles on our blog>>

Go to the first part of the series Off the Beaten Path in Northern Peloponnese here>>

Selection of images from Part 1

Kakia Skala – the Evil Stairway

Paradise beaches along the ancient road to Corinth

At the mouths of the Corinth Canal

Nemea – on the wine roads

Mycenean pyramid

Lerna, a mythical place of water worship

The abandoned rail network

Off the beaten track in the Northern Peloponnese,

Källor: Wikipedia
https://spilaiokapsia.gr/en/main-home
Pireus Bank Group Cultural Foundation

The old national road, Παλαιά Εθνική Οδός, from Athens to the northern Peloponnese winds through a varied and impressive landscape that is bypassed when traveling on the new fast Olympia highway. The old road, though more difficult to drive on and much slower, offers a true immersion in what makes up genuine Greece.

The difficult passage between Attica and the Northern Peloponnese

40 km west of Athens, we drive through Kakia Skala, also known as the Rocks of Skiron. It is a dramatic and mythical region where the landscape is as beautiful as it is dangerous. Since ancient times, Kakia Skala has been considered a difficult passage between Attica and the Peloponnese, always feared for its dangers. Even in modern times, the route has been notorious for its many traffic accidents.

According to Greek mythology, this is the place where the bandit Skiron lured his victims. They were forced to wash his feet before he kicked them off the cliff, down to a waiting turtle-like monster.

The narrow road that winds along by the edges of the cliffs offers an exhilarating ride, with each turn revealing a new and breathtaking view of the Aegean Sea. It is a place that reminds the visitor of Greece’s rich and often dramatic history.

After passing Kakia Skala and before reaching the Northern Peloponnese, small detours from the central road beckon with several unknown, paradise-like beaches. Here you can find a peaceful retreat that not many people know about. Small tavernas along the coast offer the delights of the sea, served with a simplicity that only the initiated can enjoy. These hidden gems, far from the usual tourist routes, provide an authentic and peaceful experience, where time seems to stand still.

At the mouth of the Corinth Canal

As we approach the Corinth Canal in Northern Peloponnese, we make a small detour to the northern mouth of the canal and the remains at Diolkos. In ancient times, a paved road began here, allowing boats to travel overland from the Gulf of Corinth to the Aegean Sea. This allowed ships to avoid the dangerous and long circumnavigation of the Peloponnese.

At the northern mouth of the Diolkos, as well as at the southern mouth, where the small village of Isthmia is located, there are today small self-sinking bridges that elegantly dip below the surface of the water when boats pass. From their railings, you can see the large regular bridges that span the Corinth Canal, an impressive view that recalls both ancient engineering and modern technology.

On the wine roads of Nemea

We pass Corinth and continue our journey to Nemea. This region is known for its rich vineyards. Nemea is home to the Agiorgitiko grape, which produces one of Greece’s most respected wines.

The area also has deep historical roots. It was once the site of the Nemean Games, one of the most important athletic competitions of antiquity. Even the legend of Heracles and the Nemean Lion gives a mythical aura to the whole region.

Along the popularly known wine routes of Nemea, there is a plethora of local wineries that also offer wine-tasting opportunities. The rolling landscape, with its vast fields of green vines, lush mountain plateaus, and picturesque villages, invites the traveler to explore it in depth, on foot or by car.

The Mycenaean pyramids

Our journey now takes us to the village of Elliniko, just southwest of the city of Argos. It is home to the best preserved of the famous Mycenaean pyramids – fascinating structures whose origins and purpose are still hotly debated by scholars.

Opinions are divided as to when the pyramid at Elliniko was built. Most estimates place its construction around the 4th century BC, while more recent dating methods have suggested that it may be as old as the middle of the 3rd millennium BC.

Pausanias, the ancient Greek explorer and geographer, described a similar structure in the area around 200 AD, which he believed to be a tomb for soldiers killed in battle. Other theories suggest that the pyramid may have served as a fortress or signal station.

These ancient structures show the technical skills that were once mastered here. The area is also home to many other important archaeological sites, making the Argolis region a place of great archaeological and cultural importance.

Water worship at Lerna

We follow in the footsteps of mythology to the marshes of Lerna, the place where Hercules fought his epic battle against the Lernean Hydra. This area, on the western coast of the Gulf of Argolis, was once closely associated with the ancient cult of the liquid element, giving Lerna a special place in Greek mythology and history. The god Poseidon has been worshipped here since ancient times. It was also the site of the mythical Lake Alkyonia, said to be bottomless and one of the entrances to the underworld – the realm of Hades.

Throughout history, Lerna has been described in many ways: as a river, a spring, a lake, and even as a plain. Excavations in recent years have revealed human presence since the Neolithic period. These different descriptions reflect the rich and complex history that characterizes this place.

Peloponnese abandoned railway network

Throughout our journey we come across many abandoned stations, overgrown tracks, rusting locomotives, and gaping empty carriages. These are the remnants of what, not so long ago, was a narrow-gauge but vital railway network that spanned the Peloponnese. It ran through magnificent mountainous areas and snaked between picturesque villages offering breathtaking views.

After the Second World War, the railway slowly began to deteriorate. Despite constant repairs and attempts at reconstruction, the economic crises of recent years led to the suspension of all freight and passenger traffic on the Peloponnese narrow-gauge rail network in 2011.

Today the tracks lie abandoned, overgrown, and rusted, like silent witnesses to a bygone era of Greek industry and transport.

Mantineia mountain plateau

Next, we enter the region of Arcadia and travel through the rolling landscape of the Mantineia plateau. We admire the enchanting light of the sun reflecting on the smooth hills and lush meadows. Mantineia is known not only for its natural beauty but also for its historical and cultural importance.

Mantineia is believed to be the birthplace of the god Poseidon. The god of the sea has been the protector of the area since ancient times. This region in the heart of the Peloponnese not only has strong mythological references but has also played an important role in Greek history.

There are numerous archaeological sites here that bear witness to human activity from prehistoric times. As we travel through Mantineia and gaze upon the expansive landscapes, we are carried away by the deep currents of history. The ancient ruins, harmonizing with the breathtaking scenery, offer us a captivating journey across the unfolding millennia.

Off the beaten track in the Northern Peloponnese, part 2

In the next part of our series, we visit a very special sanctuary: Agia Foteini, with its fascinating blend of Byzantine, ancient Greek, and modernist elements. The small chapel stands out as a strange monument in the middle of the Mantineia plateau.

We then head up the high mountain ranges of the Morea and explore the springs of the Ladon River, which Pausanias described as the most beautiful place in the world…

Don’t miss the second part of our series: Off the beaten track in the northern Peloponnese

Agia Foteini, interior

On the way to the springs of river Ladon

The hall of miracles

Pausanias vine

Fortresses of German artilleryr

Environmet museum of Stymphalia

Sources: Wikipedia
https://spilaiokapsia.gr/en/main-home
Pireus Bank Group Cultural Foundation

In the 1980s, after completing my studies, I finally got a real job and it turned out that my new employer allowed us to take fairly long uninterrupted vacations in the summer. This allowed me to spend 5-7 weeks in Greece, a place I had come to adore.

Unfortunately, my Interrail journeys came to an end as I had passed the upper age limit for the preferential card. However, I found that cheap flights were a good way to travel to Greece.

In the 70’s, traveling had been part of the goal, it had been a lot of fun to travel around Europe by train, but now it was all about discovering Greece for real.

Here are some memories of my trips to Greece in the first half of the 80s:

Island-hopping, in the 80s

From 1980 to 1984, I visited island after island in the magnificent Greek archipelago (from 1982 and on with then-girlfriend Eva, now wife). In the summers of 1980 and 1981, I saw a considerable part of the islands. I was determined to return to my beloved Amorgos and I would for sure stay a few days in Athens on each trip. In 1980, I traveled to Mykonos, Naxos, Santorini, Crete, Paros, and finally to Amorgos, the place of my heart.

When I returned to Amorgos in August 1980, I decided to stay in the port of Katapola and take the bus back and forth to Chora, which was still my favorite place on the island. It was a bit tricky to find a place to stay and for around a week I slept directly on the small beach next to the village. I shared space with a flock of ducks under the shelter of some αλμυρίκια/tamarisks (a saltwater-resistant tree common on Greek beaches). There was no organized camping place at that time.

After a while, though, I managed to share a room with a Cretan guy who worked as a waiter. When I visited Amorgos in 1979, I’d only seen Katapola and Chora, so I wanted to explore more of the island. But it was not easy to get between the different villages. The road between Chora and Aegiali wasn’t finished yet, the road construction was ongoing. To the “lower” part of the island (Kato Meria), there was a road, but it was barely passable. To get to the northern port of Aegiali, you needed to go by boat or with good walking shoes.

Island-hopping with Skopelitis (and Marianna)

Marianna was the boat that connected the small Cyclades with Naxos, which was a vital link for these islands. Marianna was built in Norway and operated as a fjord boat under the name Vaeröy. Many vessels operating in the Greek waters came from northern Europe, not least from Sweden. There were often small signs in Scandinavian languages about what you could and couldn’t do on board.

But it was something really special to go island-hopping with Marianna. I’ve never been so scared on a boat as I was on a couple of occasions on board this ship. Marianna sailed through thick and thin (and unfortunately also in storms). It was usually the legendary Dimitris Skopelitis himself who was at the helm. There are lots of stories about this sea bear. He started taming the waves of the sea with his various ships as early as 1956. You can learn more about the history of Skopelitis here, with some great images: http://www.smallcycladeslines.gr/en/home/.

Skopelitis was an amazing sailor and captain. He also played the violin well. I remember once we were on the Marianna somewhere between Aegiali, Donoussa, and Koufonisi. It was a heavy storm out there, and I was pretty scared as the waves were washing over the deck. Inside the saloon it was impossible to stay, people were all over the place feeling sick.
But when I was sure that our last moment had come, suddenly music came through the howling wind. When we looked into the wheelhouse, we saw Dimitris Skopelitis was playing the violin! All of a sudden, the ship and the rough journey didn’t seem so scary anymore.

Marianna was eventually replaced by the vessel Skopelitis, which wasn’t the best. A few years later, the Captain acquired the current ferry Express Skopelitis. Today there’s not much that’s “express” about this old vessel, but it’s still a seaworthy, reliable, and clean ship.

If you want to go island hopping in the Small Cyclades, a trip on board Express Skopelitis is almost a must. The crew is great. Giannis Foustiris usually captains her today. Legendary Captain Dimitris Skopelitis (Kapetan-Mitsos) sadly passed away a few years ago.

Amorgos – 1980, the hike towards Aegiali

When I first went to Amorgos in 1979, I didn’t know much about the island. I’d barely heard of Aegiali and the surrounding villages. So after a few days in Katapola and Chora, I decided to explore the northern part.

It was approaching August 15th—the Assumption of the Virgin Mary—one of the biggest holidays in Greece, as many travelers know. In the village of Lagada, this is celebrated for two days, August 14-15. I was lucky enough to experience the festivities there both in 1980 and 1981.

I had decided to hike to Aegiali from Chora together with a Dutchman I had met in Katapola. Many people said that the hike usually takes 3-4 hours, along a well-marked donkey trail. We were told to get an early start and to bring plenty of water.

However, things didn’t quite go as planned. In Chora, there was a small party at Dimitris’ taverna To Kastro, with music and lots of wine. I had earlier talked to a couple of soldiers about going with them in their jeep towards Aegiali, as long as the road was clear. The condition was that we had to be ready to travel early in the morning.

We had sleeping bags with us for some kind of accommodation in Aegiali, but we didn’t get up in time! The jeep had already left. The sun was high in the sky when we started the trek and we soon got lost. Hans was smart and turned back to walk the next day, but I kept walking, with far too little water.

If you’ve seen the classic movie Ice Cold in Alex, you’ll understand how I felt when I finally reached Aegiali. I still clearly remember the panorama when I passed all the mountains and was on my way down to the harbor (this was before the new quay was built). What a view! So insanely beautiful! It’s nice even today, but the old little harbor was so incredibly charming!

After the long, hot hike with far too little water (I know, a bad idea!), I was pretty exhausted.

The first person I met in Aegiali was a Greek musician I’d recorded in Stockholm and who had tipped me off about the island from the start. I had no idea that Giannis Alexandris would be there. This summer he ran a simple taverna with some friends.

But where would I sleep? I asked around and found out that there was no accommodation in the port of Aegiali or the villages of Potamos, Lagada and Tholaria. There was no camping at that time, so I had to do what many others did and use a part of the beach for me and my luggage.

Great festivities in the villages

In the days that followed, more and more people arrived in Aegiali to celebrate the festival in Lagada. On the 14th of August, many of us walked up the donkey trail to the festivities.

Lagada

It was a wonderful couple of days, with the village partying and dancing until dawn. In the evening a large group of us went down to the beach to sleep, only to go back up to the church the next day, where πατσά/patsa, soup made from cow’s stomach, was served after the church ceremony. According to many Greeks, patsa is the best thing to eat after a long night of drinking. And it was true, at least this time.

I spent a few fantastic days in Aegiali and the village of Lagada before returning to Katapola. The following year I made the same journey to take part in the great celebration of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary on 15 August.

Agia Paraskevi

On 26 July, I also saw the island’s other big religious festival, Agia Paraskevi in Kato Meria, the south of Amorgos. It was already big then, and today it is said to be the biggest in the Cyclades. The island’s famous dish, πατατάτο/patatato, which is goat and potatoes in a stew. It’s delicious!

In 1982 it wasn’t easy to get to Agia Paraskevi because the roads were terrible. But the legendary old Dodge bus managed to make a few trips so that people could join the celebrations.

I and a few friends ended up on a truck bed, which was fine. There weren’t many private cars on the island at the time, which made sense as the roads were few and in poor condition. Unfortunately, I haven’t been able to experience this festival again.

You can read more about the Agia Paraskevi festival here: https://www.greekgastronomyguide.gr/en/item/panigyri-tis-agias-paraskevis-amorgos/

1984. Crete and Kalymnos

In August 1984 I was newly married and planned to go with my wife to Karpathos. We had heard that the island would be similar to Amorgos, which we loved.

We arrived in Piraeus to buy tickets for a ferry to the Dodecanese islands and then to Karpathos. This very long trip would end in Agios Nikolaos in Crete. We thought we’d take the same ship back to Amorgos.

But we hadn’t realized that one of Greece’s biggest holidays was coming up. It was August 15th, the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. There were no tickets left for any ferries. Would we have to spend this weekend in Athens?

After a bit of a wait, we finally got a seat on the boat “Knossos” to Heraklion. The ship’s former name was “M/S Svea”, with lots of signs still in Swedish. M/S Svea had collided with another ship about ten years earlier, but after a few years at the shipyard, she had been put back into service. We arrived at Crete’s capital, Heraklion pretty early in the morning. We jumped on a bus that took us east to the town of Agios Nikolaos. From there, we planned to take the ferry over to Karpathos, from the wrong direction, so to speak. We thought it was a pretty smart move.

But we hadn’t expected the strong storm that hit the Cyclades and the Dodecanese islands at that time. Winds of 9 to 10 Beaufort stopped all ferry traffic for almost two days. We finally arrived 36 hours late, on the ferry “Kamiros” that would take us to Karpathos. The waves were still pretty high when the ferry passed the island of Kasos, but we were told that due to the storm, we couldn’t dock in Karpathos.

We were disappointed, so we rolled out the sleeping bags on the floor and went to sleep. In the middle of the night, we were woken up by the boat docking in some unknown port. It turned out that we had reached Karpathos after all! We then tried to pack our things as quickly as we could, but we didn’t have time before the boat weighed anchor again, heading for Rhodes. We decided to skip Karpathos and go to Kalymnos instead. Yes, this can happen!

We haven’t yet had the chance to visit Karpathos. It might sound a little crazy to mention a non-visit in the text, but I think that a canceled Karpathos visit is also a Karpathos visit. After all, we were so close! It’s been similar with many of our Greek wanderings. Plans have often had to be changed, often depending on weather and wind, among other things. But that’s also part of the charm, isn’t it?

1984. Kalymnos

When I think of our arrival at the port of Pothia on Kalymnos, the Greek concept of φιλότιμο/philotimo immediately comes to mind. There are many memories from travelling in Greece that describe this concept perfectly.

My then-girlfriend (now-wife) and I arrived on the new island pretty late after a long journey from Crete, where we’d been waiting for the boat. Rooms were scarce in the town, so we ended up in the village of Myrties, staying with an older couple called Kokkino, which means “red” in Greek.

The nice couple, Red, had lived most of their lives in Paris. Now in their older age, they spent most of the year on Kalymnos. We hadn’t had any food for quite some time, so we walked randomly north on the island and eventually found a tavern that looked quite nice after a 30–40 min walk.

The owner asked if we wanted fish. He had a σφυρίδα/ white grouper that he could grill. When the fish was brought in, we saw that it was huge! We thought the money we had brought for the evening wouldn’t be enough. When the bill came, we realized that was true. But, the owner said there was no problem. I offered to go to the hotel to get more cash, but that was out of the question. Pay tomorrow, he suggested.

The next day, we went back to do the right thing and also have lunch. The owner was sitting in the shade drinking ouzo. He smiled at us almost blissfully. His wife told us that her husband was happy on this particular day. We understood that he often had such happy moments.

When we asked for the bill, they apologized for selling us a fish that was way too big, so we didn’t have to pay the full amount. The man was in a particularly good mood that day, so he offered us even drinks for lunch. We’ve eaten sfyrida several times since then and always think of the fish tavern on Kalymnos.

Philotimo is a wonderful concept! It means showing empathy, compassion and generosity towards fellow human beings without expecting anything in return. We’ve experienced this many times in Greece, including in this lovely restaurant on Kalymnos in 1984.

Relaterade artiklar

In this Part 2 of my roamings, I will continue with a few more entries about the first trips I made to the country whose charm I have not been able to resist ever since. With the hope that the trips to Greece will become ever more frequent in the years to come..

1978. Road trip instead of island hopping

Stockholm – Germany – Belgium – France – Switzerland – Italy – Yugoslavia – Greece Halkidiki – Kavala – Thassos – Alexandroupolis – Istanbul – Bulgaria – Hungary – Austria – Germany.

In 1978 I had plans to make a longer trip as I had the possibility to be on vacation for 6 – 7 weeks in the summer. Together with three good friends we decided to attempt a road trip through Europe. Our vague goal was to get as far as Istanbul, if now the car would do the job. We had bought a Ford Transit for a good price and rebuilt it so that all four of us could sleep in it, if necessary.

The basic idea was that we would drive on small roads as much as possible.
After the long journey through Germany, the Netherlands, Belgium, France, Switzerland, Italy, and Yugoslavia, we finally crossed the Yugoslav-Greek border. By that time, 4-5 weeks had already passed since we left Sweden and started our journey through Europe. Thus, Greece became just a part of our travel.

Kavala – Thasos – Chalkidiki

When we arrived in Greece, we realized that the time would not be enough for a visit to Istanbul if we lingered in the country. That meant that there was not much time for Greece this time. I had already been quite short in Thessaloniki a couple of times in previous years, and unfortunately also this time the visit there became short. However, we managed to see parts of Halkidiki (Kassandra and Sithonia), as well as charming Kavala.

We also stayed a few days on Thasos, a nice island that was still almost completely unexploited. On Thasos we found entirely untouched nature and empty beaches and we were able to gather some peace and calm that we thought would be needed in Istanbul. I also remember a stop for lunch in the town of Alexandroupolis, before it was time to head towards Mikligarðr / Constantinople / Istanbul. But that is a completely different story.

From Istanbul we drove home through Bulgaria, Yugoslavia, Hungary, Austria, Germany and Denmark. We had traveled about 8,500 miles, and the car was still working! Much thanks to small local auto-repair shops, some oil, a few kicks, some more oil and a lot of love.

1979. A return to Greece – first visit to Amorgos

Stockholm – Copenhagen – Hamburg – Munich – Athens – Amorgos – Sifnos – Athens – Amsterdam

In the summer of 1979 it was time for island-hopping in Greece again. It would be my fourth time visiting the country. After the long road trip in 1978, I felt that it would be perfect with another train and interrail trip, my fourth and probably last. (It may of course happen that we will dust off our backpacks and hit the rails of Europe again, a thought which has become increasingly tempting in recent years).

It started with music recordings

Already in 1977, I had decided to visit lesser known Greek islands on my next trip. During those years, I was working on an essay for my university class in musicology, together with a group of other students. A large part of our work involved recording the music of various immigrant groups in Stockholm. It was a truly enjoyable job that allowed us to discover a plethora of good and exciting music. Several of the bands we recorded were Greek and it was through them that I got the valuable tips about Amorgos and Sifnos.

Amorgos – love at first sight

Well, it may not have been the very first sight, because the arrival at the port of Katapola took place in the middle of the night, after perhaps 12 – 13 hours trip on the worn ferry Agios Georgios. Most ferries that went to the smaller islands often had difficult arrival times, as I remember. It was pitch black night when we stepped ashore, so we didn’t see much of the island.

At the pier, me and many other people spontaneously ended up on a very old bus. It was a 1957 Dodge, as one of the passengers said. In this late hour, without thinking too much, I decided that I would go to Chora, the main village, which was about 20 – 25 minutes up in the mountains (today the same trip takes maybe 10 minutes).

Chora and Katapola

The bus stopped, around four in the morning, in front of the cafe/tavern To Kastro. It was a place that later on would mean a lot to me, but at the time I didn’t know that. The next challenge was to find somewhere to sleep. I had traveled with Terje, a Norwegian guy I had met on the train, and we quickly decided to follow a local woman, Maria, who offered rooms to rent. So before we really knew what had happened, in just a few minutes, we had a roof over our heads, right in the very heart of Chora.

I still remember waking up in this amazing village, as beautiful as the pictures on all the postcards you’ve seen from Greece. Whitewashed houses, narrow alleys, donkeys and friendly people. It immediately became clear that I had found the right place. For sure, Ios was beautiful, as was Corfu, but Chora on Amorgos was even more outstanding! I immediately had an overwhelming feeling of being at home!

This first time I stayed almost three weeks in Chora, but changed accommodation a couple of times. When Terje went back home, I shared a room with Jesper, a nice Dane, and Phil, an Australian (as well as with an unnamed mouse that happily ate of our bread).
We tourists, or travelers as many chose to call themselves, quickly got into the village life. In those days there were not too many taverns or cafes, let alone bars, so you often ended up in the same place as everyone else. The social hub of the village was the cafe/tavern To Kastro, which was located where the bus from Katapola had its final stop. Here we slowly but surely got to know people. I often had the opportunity to chat with Parvas and his family, who ran the tavern.

Swimming in the Big Blue

During the days, we spent most of our time swimming. There were several options to choose from. The closest, just below Chora, was Agia Anna, a beautiful rocky shore where parts of the movie The Big Blue were filmed. Other times we took the old bus to the harbour village of Katapola, and from there boarded a small boat out to the rocks, where you could swim naked if you wanted to – although some times the police disagreed with us about the latter. Occasionally, we would hike down to Katapola, which was a unique experience, especially if you chose to follow the donkey trail, although such walk took its own time.

After the wonderful dives and swims we enjoyed during the day, many of us would gather at the central square of Katapola. There you could sit down in one of the three cafés: To Kamari, The Pirate or Nikoletta’s, in order to get some food and drinks. The whole square looked different back then, still unaffected by the hotels later built, or the sun-shields and ceilings the cafés were covered with the years to come. It was an open and simple meeting place.

To Kamari, is today run by Michalis, son of Georgios and Evangelia, the couple who started the tavern/café at that time. Maria, the daughter of the family, became an important person for us tourists as she spoke good English and could act as an interpreter. To Kamari still feels to me like the center of Katapola, although today they no longer serve so much prepared food, apart for some good pies and pastries. We loved to sit outside those taverns/cafes after swimming in the azure sea and sunbathing on the flat rocks.

Most of the time, the bus driver honked the horn at us Chora residents, that it was time to go up the mountain. But even driver-Vangelis sometimes needed to res,t and then we had to go with a truck. We sat on the back of the truck, on wooden benches. A canopy was also set up as protection from the sun and wind.

Already after a couple of days, I knew that Amorgos was the place I had been looking for. In that time, you didn’t meet many tourists there, neither in Chora nor in Katapola.

Aegiali

It took me a while to realize that there was another very nice part of the island, Aegiali/Αιγιάλη. This first year, however, I didn’t make it all the way there.

At that time, there were no car roads, so you had to take a ferry between the two ports of the island, or walk for about 4-5 hours on ridge trails over the mountains. At the end of the 1970s, the ferry Marianna was the lifeline between the small Cycladic islands and Naxos (Marianna was a Norwegian fjord boat that originally was called Vaeröy). The owner and captain of the ship was the later legendary Skopelitis, who was also a very talented violinist.

The larger ferries served both Katapola and Aegiali, but in the 1970s, the latter port could not harbour the ships in the small quay. Instead, the passengers had to jump or climb from the ferry down to the small boats, latzes/λάντζες, which transported the passengers ashore. Quite a nasty experience sometimes, especially in strong winds. More about Aegiali in the next episode of my Greek roamings (part 3).

Although I had already fallen in love with the country of Greece, I now also fell in love with the island of Amorgos. I knew I would return. And with a little hindsight, I can say that there have been over thirty revisits since then.

1979. Sifnos

I had promised myself to visit two islands this summer. Again, I traveled alone, but when I remember those trips, I think that I was never really alone. I met people constantly throughout my journey – some completely new acquaintances, or some already familiar faces encountered along the way. I now had only 10 days left to explore a new island before my train would depart heading North. I also wanted to stay a few days in Athens, my favorite city. Several people I met on Amorgos praised Sifnos as a fantastic island. So it became my next stop on this, my fourth, Greek odyssey.

I came to Sifnos directly after Amorgos in August 1979 and was quite heartbroken about having to leave my newfound love behind. But Sifnos turned out to be a wonderful balm for my heartache, even if the encounter with this island was not as strong as the one with Amorgos. From the northwestern port of Kamares, I took a very old bus straight to the mountain village of Kastro, via the slightly larger settlement of Apolonia.

The village of Kastro had been described to me as very picturesque and beautiful, and it really was! A fantastic place with only two minor disadvantages – there was a lack of accommodations offered, and no real restaurant to find. But we quickly discovered a small grocery store / παντοπωλείον, which sometimes served simple dishes in its beautiful garden. In addition, there was a small taverna at the tiny beach, just below Kastro. Simple food was often offered there, although it could take an awfully long time to get any order in.

One evening, I ordered potatoes and meatballs. The tasty potatoes arrived after maybe only 20 – 30 minutes, while the meatballs took so long that I forgot about them (perhaps because of the delicious retsina that you had to serve yourself). But when the meatballs finally did arrive, after almost 2 – 3 hours waiting, they were tasty, carefully seasoned, and prepared with love.

During the 5 – 6 days I spent on Sifnos, I stayed most of the time in this small village of Kastro, with a minor break for a bank visit in Apolonia. I had managed to find a kind of basement abode to live in, which I shared with a Norwegian couple. A simple and discreet retreat but with a magnificent view. In the east you could even see the island of Antiparos when it was not too hazy.

Kastro was truly a gem, where the villagers seemed to have little interest in exploiting their community for the sake of tourism. On my visit in the summer of 1979 there were perhaps 10-15 tourists, mostly from Norway, and we all enjoyed the local society. I was lucky enough to be there on August 15th, when the Virgin Mary’s Ascension Day is celebrated, and had the chance to experience the beautiful ceremony and feast/πανηγύρι in the whitewashed alleys of the village.

I promised myself that I would return to explore Sifnos more thoroughly, which I did many years later. I visited the island with my wife and children, and that time we became very fond of another village, Faros, on the south-eastern side of the island, where we stayed for a week. With Faros as a base, we got the chance to explore larger parts of the whole beautiful island.

Last year, 2023, we came back to Sifnos again. This time we only stayed three nights in the arrival port of Kamares. But we had time for a wonderful hike over the mountains between Apolonia and Kamares.

Sifnos definitely has an obvious place on our list of favorites in Greece.

The 1980s begins

The trip of 1979 brought an end to the era of traveling by train or car. Interrail had become a lifestyle where the journey was as much a part of the destination as the actual destination of the trip. In the early 1980s, however, I felt too old for Interrail. I also wanted to stay a little longer in Greece than the 3 weeks I managed in the previous years, as the train journey itself took about a week in total.

In the forthcoming chapters of my wanderings, cheap flights will play the main role in how I travel. But it is during those coming years that my love for Greece and especially for the island of Amorgos really deepens.

The 1980s were the decade when I began to get to know Greece more in-depth.

So here are a few lines about the first trips I made to the country that became my favorite. My traveling there has continued since then and will hopefully continue for several more years.

1976. The first journey

Stockholm – Copenhagen – Hamburg – Munich – Milan – Bologna – Brindisi – Corfu – Athens – Ios – Sikinos – Thessaloniki – Amsterdam

Thanks to the Interrail pass, you could at that time in a cheap manner get around Europe and thus get the opportunity to see large parts of the countries where the card was valid. In 1976, the age limit for Interrail cards was raised to 23 years (from 20 I think) so I had a couple of years left to jump on the trains to the continent and eventually to Greece.

I started traveling by train already in 1975, but mostly in Spain and France. I often met a lot of other train enthusiasts who had traveled around Greece. They were thrilled by their visits to a country that had managed to get rid of the military junta just a few years ago and that breathed positivism, joy and opportunity. At the end of the summer, I found myself on the French Riviera and realized that neither time nor money would be enough to continue to Greece. But right then I made the decision. The next summer, the interrail journey through Europe would lead to the long-awaited Greece. And the following year, the dream became a reality.

Just like the year before, I was traveling alone. I still remember how exciting it was when the train left the platform of Copenhagen and finally I was on my way. That very special feeling of freedom, of having a month’s vacation ahead of you and no other plans than to take the easiest way to Greece by train. I always loved going by train and now I got a good dosage of this mode of transportation.

Train change in Hamburg, Munich and Milan and then on to Brindisi, down at the tip of Italy. Our train from northern Italy arrived in the middle of the night and the ferries to Greece only left in the evening, which meant I had to wait a whole day in Brindisi. However, this was not so bad as it turned out. I still remember Brindisi of that time as a pretty cool city, one of the oldest in Italy, I understand. But the next evening I excitedly jumped on the ferry to Corfu.

Corfu – the gateway

This island was my first contact with Greece and I was absolutely stunned! Already on arrival I was completely overwhelmed by the warmth and friendliness of the locals. Their curiosity and genuine interest made me feel seen, despite my young age, in a way I had rarely experienced before. And last but not least – the wonderful nature, the amazing beaches, with their turquoise waters, framed by steeply plunging cliffs.

Once in Corfu harbor, I joined a fairly large group of young people my age. We ended up at the Kontokali campsite, a bit outside the town, where there was room in a dormitory for a few drachmas per night. It was like being in a big family with young people from all sorts of different countries.

I did not know much about Corfu, or Κέρκυρα/Kerkyra, as it is called in Greek, other than what I had read in brochures from the Greek National Tourist Office. Like so many others, I rented a moped and saw much of the island. One day I also rented a car, together with two Swedes and a Norwegian. We discovered pretty much the rest of Corfu this way.

I remember there was a local feast the first night in the village next to the campsite. A fantastic evening where I learned to like ouzo, knock the bottom out of wine bottles and dance Sirtaki. Just imagine! Good start, I felt, on my first visit in Greece.
Retsina-wine I had more difficulty with this first year but I learned to like it a few years later, Slow but steady wins the race. I think I stayed 4 – 5 days in Corfu.

Athens – love at first sight

I quick began to realize that the journey through Greece would be marked by coincidences and by going with the flow. I was one in a crowd of young travelers who all seemed to be following roughly the same route: train to Brindisi, then ferry across to Corfu. After a few days, the flow took me to the port city of Patras, on the mainland of the Peloponnese, after which I continued east towards Athens.

In Patras, it was mostly a short stopover before the journey continued towards the capital and the archipelago that loomed far away on the horizon. But that feeling of freedom and adventure, not knowing where the journey would take me next, was a big part of the charm of the whole Greek experience. At that time, many people traveled to Greece through former Yugoslavia, but I still think the majority came via Italy.

I loved Athens from the first moment! My first accommodation in the city was near Victoria Square. Like so many others, I had received a flyer at Larissa station for the Athens Youth Hostel. But I moved away after a few days to a hostel closer to Plaka – Athens’ historic center, because that’s where you hung out and met people. I found a bed on a rooftop for a mere penny.

Plaka was nicely bohemian at that time, lots of music, maybe even a bit too much music, if you liked to sleep, but it was not something that really bothered us who were young at that time. OK, a lot of the music being played was, to be honest, absolutely awful, with blaring speakers, squeaky organs and choir synthesizers. But a great deal of it was also fantastic. Already on this first trip I became interested in Greek music, especially rebetiko.

However, it was soon time to start island hopping!

Island hopping to Ios

July was coming to an end and it was very hot in Athens. Now the Greek islands were really appealing. The original plan was to visit Paros, because I had heard from others that it would be nice. Maybe later also to Ios, which almost everyone I met told me was the coolest island. After a few incredibly funny days in Athens, it was time to head off to Paros, which I knew almost nothing about.

The old ferry Leto skimmed very slowly from Piraeus through rather large waves and after a number of slightly seasick hours she docked at the port of Paros. The small harbor looked very calm and peaceful. But almost none of my fellow travelers got off here. On a whim, I stayed on the boat to Ios, where, according to legend, Homer himself died and was buried.

I still remember the nice bay of Ios and the beautiful main village of Chora, sparkling like a white gemstone above. We immediately found a simple room to rent from an older Greek woman, it was located between the harbor and the village.

Chora offered lots of fun bars and cozy taverns that served good food at a mouth-watering price. There I ran into a lot of familiar faces both from home and new friends I had made during the trip.

Every evening at sunset you could listen to classical music at the Ios Club bar, a wonderful musical experience in the warm dusk light. I went swimming like most others on Mylopotas beach. I absolutely do not regret that I went off on Ios, because the days on this island were outstanding funny and festive, but after five days I was completely exhausted.

Onwards to Sikinos

One of the days before returning to Athens, I made a day trip to the nearby island of Sikinos, together with some Swedes. It was probably the hottest day of the whole trip. We missed the mule transport to the main village of Sikinos and got stuck in the harbor. The owner of the only open tavern said he had no energy to cook as it was too hot. We also did not manage to walk up to the village because of the heat.

However, we could take drinks out of the freezer where a number of pilsners lay together with a bunch of fish. I began to understand that this is how it could be in Greece. Simple, charming but sometimes also a little … annoying. But the fish-scented beers kept the mood up. In the end, the owner of the tavern served us small snacks, but it was just when the boat was about to depart back to Ios. Pretty fun, when you get some distance to it all.

Return trip 1976

Back in Athens, I took the opportunity to visit several of the attractions, had time to sleep in a few more hostels, before it was time to get on the train together with the small group of Swedes who had gotten to know each other during this trip.

First stop to the north was Thessaloniki. Unfortunately, we did not get a good feel for the city on this first visit, largely because we were hit by a huge thunderstorm where lightning struck all around us. A bolt of lightning hit a power pole that started to burn just a few meters from where we were and it became pitch black in the surrounding neighborhoods. A tremendous thundershower made us quickly jump on the train to northern Europe a day earlier than we expected.

The train was as full as only a train in the former Yugoslavia could be. A girl in the company was robbed of her passport on the train (in the sleeping cabin) in the middle of the night, which put her in trouble. The Germans would not let anyone through without a passport. But it was solved when the German police made sure that we did not belong to Bader Meinhof and after visiting the Swedish consulate in Munich for a temporary passport.

The trip ended in Amsterdam. My first thought upon returning to Sweden was to start saving for a new trip so that I could go island hopping in Greece again next year.

The month-long wandering was the absolute coolest trip I had made so far in my life!

1977. Second journey

Stockholm – Copenhagen – Hamburg – Munich – Bologna – Brindisi – Corfu – Athens – Ios – Thessaloniki – Halkidiki – Amsterdam – Stockholm

My second trip to Greece followed pretty much the beaten path from the previous year. Train to Brindisi with various changes and then the ferry to Corfu.

Campsite Kontokali was not nearly as nice this year. Already the year before, some guests had problems with the manager. He was particularly rude to the Italians, who often traveled in large groups. In my opinion they were very nice people, but he got stuck on the fact that they were singing socialist songs like Bandiera Rossa etc. This was explained when I went to pay for my stay and saw that he had a large photo of former dictator Papadopoulos on the wall. That came as a bit of a shock. After an argument between the owner and especially the Italians, many of us left the campsite.

It was a pity as most of us had enjoyed very nice days in Corfu. But this time I got time to see a bit more of the beautiful old town.

Revisiting Athens

Then I headed off to Athens again, a city I really enjoyed the year before. It was a pretty long stay in Athens this time. I spent quite a lot of time up on the Acropolis rock. Despite the large amount of tourists, it was magical to sit up there (which it still is).

Also the Lykavittos hill got a couple of visits again. In addition to the view from these two hills, it is also pleasantly cool there when the city is at its hottest.

Already in 1976 I became very fond of the central food market in Athens, Varvákios Agorá, as it is called in Greek – on Athinas Street. I love food markets. This time I was there daily and sometimes even at night – the market is open around the clock – when you could eat patsá/πατσά, a soup from pork leg and belly. I had to try this, as Greeks said that you did not become “day after” if you ate the soup before going to bed. Do not really know if it is true. However, I have eaten patsá, or some variant of it, only once more since then.

Plaka and Monastiraki were also this year the places where everyone met. Other areas I liked in Athens were Thissio and Psyri/Ψυρρή. The latter neighborhood was at that time full of workshops, with craftsmen, shoemakers, carpenters, etc, mixed with simple taverns and small cafes. Very far from today’s restaurant- and tourist-dense Psyri.

In 1976 I also ended up at the fantastic tavern Diporto (which means two doors). A place I have returned to several times. A must experience, located near the central fruit and vegetable market. Back in the 70s, it was run by a father and son. You can read more about the history of Diporto here. It is still a very popular place today. Pretty much the same menu every year. Fasolakia (broad beans in tomato sauce), some kind of soup, grilled sardines and maybe something more, but always simple, very tasty and cheap.

Ios, Halkidiki, Yugoslavia

After city life in Athens, the desire for swimming and sun was strong. It was time to go island hopping again. I spent 5 – 6 days on Ios, where it was crazy partying, just like the year before. Although it was fun, I had a longing for smaller places, not as intense.

Soon it was time to head home. In order for the trip not to be identical as the year before, I chose to stay a few days in Thessaloniki. From there, I also hitchhiked a couple of days in Halkidiki (Kassandra Peninsula), before heading back north with the train through Yugoslavia.

After this second trip to Greece, I decided that from now on I wouldn’t get sucked into the current, but start discovering new places on my own. I thought I would return to Corfu and Ios but that has not yet happened. There have been so many attractions in Greece, but mainly I fell for the favorite, Amorgos. More about this amazing island in the next installment of the wanderings on the blog.