The following text is a slightly revised version of an article by journalist Dimitris Hatzis from 2010, originally published in the magazine Εναλλακτικός Τουρισμός/Alternative Tourism. The text serves as a valuable historical document, capturing the soul of Amorgos at that time. Unfortunately, the magazine was discontinued in 2011 due to the Greek economic crisis.

Several people mentioned in the text are no longer with us, but their memory lives on – both on the island and in the hearts of all who knew them.

By Dimitris Hatzis, journalist
Photos by Zois Louvaris, Georgios Xyftilis, Ulf Björkman

The Cyclades slowly fade into the distance. From the Blue Star ferry deck, I watch as the sun sinks below the horizon, painting the sky in enchanting hues. One by one, the islands slip out of sight, quietly renewing their ancient promise to reappear with the first light of dawn, adorning the traveler’s seafaring journey just as they have for millennia.

Amorgos is the last and most remote outpost of the Cyclades. Yet, the island is also one of the most distinctive. What is it about Amorgos that captures your heart and makes it so special and so beloved?

Join us to find out!

Faint at first and growing clearer the closer we came, Amorgos emerged from the blue light of the Aegean Sea. It was a massive, granite-like formation, a long, narrow mountainous island, so different from all the ones I had encountered before.

Yes, Amorgos gives the impression that some ancient god loved it and chose this very spot to gently place it on the sea. The island, with its beauty and welcoming embrace, generously offers the tenderness and joy needed for those who have traveled so far and faced many challenges to reach it.

Getting to know Amorgos

My visit to Amorgos allowed me to experience the island from The Big Blue during its best time of year, lush, blooming, and fragrant.

The blooming meadows, the beautiful mountain slopes, the steep peaks, the picturesque villages, the endless sandy beaches, and all around the intense blue sea create a scene that instantly captures your heart and ignites a desire to explore further—to discover the island’s world, its customs, traditions, and way of life.

It is the largest island among the island group known as the Small Cyclades, a favorite of many artists, poets, and other seekers and inspired individuals. A hospitable island where the grandeur of nature’s beauty harmoniously blends with the traditional lifestyle of its inhabitants, making it a unique destination for every traveler.

But even the flavors and melodies of Amorgos enchant the visitor. The festivities, along with the meze dishes, local wine, and raki, create the setting for entirely new experiences. The traditional drink rakomelo (warm raki with honey) might leave you “inebriated by the Big Blue.” Those who have experienced it know exactly what I mean.

Amorgos – a historical overview

Amorgos has been inhabited since ancient times. The Cycladic and Mycenaean civilizations have left their mark, which visitors can discover among the ruins of the ancient cities of Minoa, Arkesini, and Aigiali (Melania).

The island was colonized by inhabitants from Miletus and Naxos and participated in the First Athenian League. Control of Amorgos then passed to the Macedonians and later to the Ptolemies and Romans, until the Christianization of the island under Byzantine rule. The renowned Monastery of Panagia Chozoviotissa was founded in 1088 by Emperor Alexios I Komnenos and symbolizes the Byzantines’ long-standing presence on the island before Venetian and later Ottoman rule took over.

The villages of Amorgos

Chora

Around the hill with the windmills, built in a distinctly Cycladic style, lies Chora, the island’s main village, just one kilometer from Katapola, the port on the island’s southern side.

All of the picturesque cobblestone alleys lead to the central square, Loza, and the historic castle in Chora. It’s also worth visiting the archaeological collection at the Gavras Mansion, the small Fotodotis Christ Monastery, and the many whitewashed churches, such as Metropolis, Agioi Pantes, Vlysani, and several others.

Near Chora lies the renowned Monastery of Panagia Chozoviotissa, as well as the smaller Monastery of Agios Georgios Valsamitis and the famous Agia Anna beach, where parts of The Big Blue were filmed.

Katapola

Katapola is a wind-sheltered, safe, and natural harbor favored by many yachts and small boats that visit the area. The churches of Panagia Katapoliani and the Church of the Annunciation are of great interest. Above Katapola, you can see the ruins of ancient Minoa and the old dam at Lefkes. For swimming and relaxation, the picturesque beaches of Kato Akrotiri, Maltezi, Finikies, Tyrokomos, and Agioi Saranta are ideal.

Kato Meria

In the southern part of Amorgos, known as Kato Meria, in addition to the village that gave the area its name, you can also visit the villages Arkesini, Vroutsi, Kolofana, and the stunning beaches of Ammoudi, Mouros, Kalotaritissa, and Paradeisia. Lastly, the small island of Gramvousa lies at the southernmost tip of Amorgos, and you can easily reach it by a small boat.

Aigiali

After crossing the mountain range of Amorgos to the north, a distance of about 10.5 miles, I arrived in Aigiali, the island’s second port. It is a beautiful bay with turquoise waters that enchant the visitor. The port, village, sandy beaches, and the surrounding steep mountains create an impressive view that instantly captures both soul and heart. Many who arrive in Aigiali think, “This is where I want to stay.”

The villages Potamos, Langada, Tholaria

In the steep mountains high above Aigiali lies the village of Potamos, offering an outstanding panoramic view where you can experience one of the most beautiful sunsets in the Aegean Sea.

Langada is one of the most significant villages in the area and is a must-visit. It is located above the cultivated fields of Aigiali and is known for its historic church, Agia Triada, the Araklou Gorge, and the old windmills.

Opposite Langada lies the village of Tholaria, representing the island’s “Spartan” side and offering breathtaking views. Warm and hospitable people will give you a heartfelt welcome to their village. One of the most beautiful cafés in Greece, Kali Kardia (The Good Heart), located next to the main church, will make your heart skip a beat. Sofia, an exceptional individual, and her mother, Mrs. Pletto, will take care of you with the smiles and warmth that define them.

A little further up, Nikolas at the Panorama tavern will sing Amorgian melodies for you, accompanied by his sons, Stamatis on the violin and Paraskevas on the lute.

At the Choreftis (Dancer) café, Anargyros has been trying for years to master the board game tavli. If you know how to play, feel free to challenge him to a game, if you dare.

The beaches

The area is home to many beaches, with Levrossos, Psili Ammos, Vlychada, and Agios Pavlos standing out. The latter is located right across from the “guardian” of Aigiali bay, the small island of Nicouria, which stands out with its distinctive shape. There is also the main beach of Aigiali, with its countless love stories, where during magical and dreamlike nights, colorful dawns, and intoxicating moments, so many different people have experienced the same feeling of unrestrained freedom, Dionysian ecstasy, or simply, true life.

Every part of this endless beach holds something from all those who came to know it before the violent and homogenizing new reality of tourism’s modernization and commercialization swept in. Here, those who know will remember Michalis “Tyri,” Mitsaras with his bouzouki, the crew from the legendary black fishing boat Aldebaran, Nikos Koutis, Georgios “the Swede” and his company, and of course, our beloved kyra-Katina.

Hospitality, tradition, and family warmth

“To Limani tis kyra-Katinas Café and Restaurant” reads the sign outside Aigiali’s most famous restaurant. We spoke with Panagiotis, one of Katina and Antonis Nomikos’ two sons, who, together with his brother Theodoris, runs the place where thousands of visitors each year enjoy authentic Amorgian and Greek cuisine.

The restaurant is deeply associated with Aigiali, and it would not be an exaggeration to say that there isn’t a single visitor to the island who hasn’t been there.

“Tell us, Panagiotis, about the restaurant’s history.”

“The restaurant began its operation in 1980. My father was a cook on boats, and when he retired, we decided to open this restaurant. When we started, there wasn’t even electricity in Aigiali, and we worked with a generator. The food was cooked with gas, and the dishes that needed to be baked in an oven were taken to the village bakery’s oven on trays.”

“People took us to their hearts from the very beginning, perhaps because it was a family business or because my parents were very well-liked. It’s incredibly touching that people have been coming back to us for over 40 years!”

“My wife Lia and I now run the restaurant with my brother Theodoris and his wife Puki. We serve fresh fish and seafood, cheeses, meats, vegetables, and above all, pure, local products. Our goal is to maintain high quality in the food we serve.”

Alternative tourism

I had a pleasant conversation about alternative tourism activities with Vasilis Savvas at the Iris Center for Alternative Vacations, located at the famous tsimentaki, a small seafront walkway where past visitors to the island used to stroll, discuss, and reflect on life.

“When did you decide to settle permanently on Amorgos and work with alternative tourism?”

“I first came to Amorgos in 1982 and worked temporarily as a waiter. In 1992, I decided to settle here permanently, and in my search for something to do on the island, the Iris Center for Alternative Vacations gradually took shape.”

“We started as four people, but today it’s just me and Karin from Sweden who continue to run the center. However, we also have other collaborators. Instructors and teachers from both Greece and abroad come here, as do many visitors, both individually and in groups. They engage in activities like yoga, tai chi, chi gong, dance, astronomy, massage, meditation, and others.”

“Amorgos has always been an island that fosters an alternative lifestyle,” Vasilis continues. “It has a special character. Perhaps it’s the magnetism, the energy the island conveys to its visitors. It’s said to lie on one of the Earth’s energy lines, one of the so-called “ley lines,” and that may be why ancient peoples built so many temples and monuments on this island. There was even a famous water oracle in antiquity, in the area where the Monastery of Agios Georgios Valsamitis now stands.”

“What other alternative activities are available on the island?”

“Hiking, getting to know nature, climbing, and diving are some key activities. Additionally, there is a small astronomical observatory.”

Another unique feature of the island is the abundance of herbs with healing properties, which can be found almost everywhere on Amorgos. The island is also home to many migratory birds and small animals. Since the year 2000, the northern part of the island, above Langada and toward Cape Xodontas, has been included in the Natura program and will become a protected area.

On Amorgos, you can also experience unique festivities with a strong religious, social, and cultural character. During these celebrations, called panigyria, wine and traditional dishes such as xidato and patatato are generously offered. The festivities are always accompanied by traditional music, with local songs and instruments.

Amorgos hiking trails

Amorgos is an island of striking contrasts. Here, mountains and sea are in constant interplay. The towering mountains meet the foaming waves, while lush plains stretch down toward calm bays and beautiful beaches.

Hiking soothes the soul and rewards those who cross the island on stone-paved paths that have been walked for centuries, offering the chance to come into close contact with Amorgos’ nature, its historical monuments, and small villages.

The paths stretch across the entire island, and until the late 1980s, they were the main routes of communication for the inhabitants. Today, some of the main trails have been marked, and a special hiking map has been created.

A remarkable journey through time and tradition

Amorgos offers not only breathtaking landscapes and rich traditions but also an enchanting blend of history, culture, and natural experiences. It is a place where every step on the ancient trails, every encounter with the hospitable locals, and every meal made from local ingredients roots you deeper into the island’s unique soul. Whether you seek peace, adventure, or a journey into Greece’s past, Amorgos is a destination that will always surprise and captivate.

By Dimitris Hatzis, journalist
Photos by: Zois Louvaris, Georgios Xyftilis, Ulf Björkman

Related articles

• Island-hopping in the 1970’s – my carefree Greek roamings part 2
• Island-hopping in the 1970’s – my carefree Greek roamings part 1

Latest articles

• Greece in the 19th Century – Hellas Herald No. 1: The Fearless Woman
• Greek customs and traditions: Anastenaria – firewalking in 2026
• Greek mythology: strange beings and forgotten legends, part 1
• Greek Expedition, ready to sail, March 2026 [newsletter]
• Women of Rebetiko – 8 Voices that shaped the genre

Our guided tours are now ongoing

Embark on a fascinating tour of the unknown Athens and discover some of the lesser-known sights of the city. Read more 👇

Leafy vegetables, or horta/χόρτα, have been filling stomachs and healing bodies and souls in Greece since ancient times. The deep-rooted knowledge of their benefits has flourished over generations and has undoubtedly contributed to survival and health during difficult periods in the country’s history. For thousands of years, these tasty and beneficial green leaves have been a valuable and powerful resource, helping to maintain both physical strength and spiritual balance in Greek society.

Super food high up in the Greek mountains

1992 was the first time I visited the village where my then-husband-to-be was born. I was immediately captivated, even though I had visited Greece countless times and had just completed a year of Greek studies at the University of Athens. The village Theriakisi (Θεριακήσι) is located in the prefecture of Aitolia-Akarnania, 750 meters above sea level, and at that time had about two hundred inhabitants, three kafenion and a telephone.

Lambros, my husband, was the youngest child in a group of nine. Father Alexandros was a shepherd and was away for long periods during the children’s upbringing, while mother Yppapadi, together with the children, took care of the olive groves, the vegetable garden, the chickens, and a pig. In the small basement space, there were barrels of olives, feta cheese, beans, chickpeas, pickled vegetables, lentils, lard, salted por,k and a weaving loom where the sheep’s hair was turned into blankets that warmed the family during the winter months. At the same time, they always collected leafy vegetables, especially when clearing the olive groves from early spring to late fall, and they consumed them almost daily.

My in-laws had a tough life, experiencing war, misery and poverty, but they lived to be almost a hundred years old. I am absolutely convinced that their lifestyle and dietary habits played a significant role in their longevity. Family, love, proximity to nature and animals, but also food and a balanced diet with lots of leafy vegetables.

A bit about myself: My name is Pia Jörhall Polyzou. Born and raised in Vänersborg, Sweden. Moved later to Gothenburg where I studied sociology. I graduated as a social worker and worked as a probation officer in the prison service. Then I studied Greek at the University of Athens, met my future Greek husband and worked as a translator and newsreader at the state radio ERA, in the program Φωνή της Ελλάδας/Voice of Greece. We now live in a suburb of Washington DC, have three grown children and deep roots in both Greece and Sweden.

Theophrastus the scholar and the herbs

Theophrastus (371-287 BC) is often referred to as the father of herbs and constantly appears in the literature on leafy vegetables. He was born on Lesbos, but moved to Athens as a young man to study at Plato’s Academy. After Plato’s death, Aristotle became his mentor and they went back to Lesbos to study botany. Theophrastus later returned to Athens and contributed to a collaboration between the Lyceum and Plato’s Academy. Under Aristotle’s guidance, the latter created the Peripatetic School. The name means the walking school because Aristotle had an idea that students learn better if they walk (περιπατώ/peripato). It was in such ways that he applied philosophical theories to everyday life.

Theophrastus was a highly educated and respected person who taught botany and wrote several books during his lifetime. The most influential of these were Peri fyton historia (Περί Φυτών Ιστορία – On the history of plants), and Peri phyton aition (Περί Φυτών Αιτιών – On the origin of plants). These writings laid the foundation for the classification of plants, for which the founder of modern Botany, Carl Linnaeus, praised him much later.

🥬 Greek super food, list of some common leafy vegetables

Leafy greens can rightly be called Greece’s number one superfood. They are used in many ways, as food, drink and for healing purposes. They can be eaten raw, cooked, used in dishes, in smoothies, teas and health shots. The roots, as well as the seeds, are also used, especially in alternative medicine. Below we present some of the most common leafy greens.

🌿Field mustard/βρούβες (vrouves). Sinapis arvensis

There is a saying in Greece that loosely translates as “Are you looking for the field mustard?” It means that someone is looking for something in plain sight, but can’t see what’s obviously right in front of their eyes.

Vrouves are among the most common leafy vegetables in Greece and are a collective name for many different species in the mustard genus. As the saying goes, they grow everywhere. They’re not too fussy, all they need is sun, so don’t be surprised if you see yellow little flowers growing on walls or between rocks. The flowers are yellow and pointed and bloom from April to October. In many villages it is also used in dishes and the seeds are ground down with oil to make mustard (from the Greek word σινάπι/sinapi).

Field mustard or charlock mustard is also mentioned by Theophrastus who described it as ‘healing’ and contains vitamins A, C, B, E, D, K, B6, B12, magnesium, iron, calcium and phosphorus.

🌱Purple amaranth/ βλήτα (vlitta). Amaranthus blitum

During the summer months, amaranth/vlita is often found on the Greek dinner table and is widely served in taverns. It is considered the queen of leafy greens, truly Greece’s #1 superfood. Vlita combines well with fish or seafood. There are about 75 different varieties of purple amaranth around the world.

In ancient times, its flowers were considered sacred and protected by the goddess Artemis. They were a symbol of eternal life and were often placed on graves.

Amaranth is quite easy to grow especially in the Mediterranean, and contains vitamins C, A, B, calcium, niacin, riboflavin, iron, and magnesium. Some studies suggest that it contributes to strengthening the immune system, lowering blood pressure and reducing the risk of osteoporosis.

🌱 Dandelion /ραδίκια (radikia). Taraxacum officinale

Ραδίκια/radikia is the second most common leafy vegetable served in Greek restaurants after vlita. Perhaps you could call it Greece’s number #2 superfood. Radikia is either harvested wild or cultivated on a small scale as a leafy vegetable. The leaves can be eaten either cooked or raw in various forms, such as in soup or salad.

Radikia or dandelion is probably also the most common wild leafy vegetable in many countries and it is very tasty when it is picked early and is a health bomb containing vitamins K, A, C, B, and E.

Theophrastus and others after him called the dandelion “the liver’s best friend”. It is still considered today to cleanse the blood, lower blood pressure, blood sugar and cholesterol.

Radikia can be applied in all recipes with leafy vegetables

🌱 Pursley/γλιστρίδα (glistrida). Portulaca oleracea

Pursley or Purslane/γλιστρίδα is a well-known salad plant that grows abundantly, mainly in vegetable gardens, without needing special care. It is used as a refreshment in salads and as a healing herb. It has been known as a medicinal plant for over 2000 years. The small leaves are dark green, crisp and thick.

Theophrastus introduced it as an early form of antibiotic to cure fever, stomachache, sore throat, headache and scurvy. Glistrida contains high levels of iron, phosphorus, magnesium and calcium.

🌱Pursley/γλιστρίδα is in many places in Greece also called andrakla/αντράκλα .

🌱Nettle/τσουκνίδα (tsouknida). Urtica dioica

Nettles probably need no introduction. Even in Greece they are eaten as salad, soup and sometimes replace spinach. The stingers are neutralized by boiling the leaves and squeezing out the water.

In the Expedition’s article on Greek herbs, nettle is listed as the country’s top one healing herb.

It is said that the ancient Greeks often started their day with a nettle drink that could strengthen the immune system, prevent colds and relieve ailments.

Nettle contains vitamins C, K, B, iron and calcium.

🌱Red mallow/ μολόχα (molocha). Malva sylvestris

The red mallow is a very common plant across the Mediterranean region and in many other places around the world. It is very adaptable and grows not only in coastal zones but also at high altitudes. You can enjoy its color and beauty whether you are by the sea or in the mountains.

In ancient Greece, mallow was highly valued and admired by prominent philosophers such as Pythagoras and Plato. It is known that mallow was used as a prophylactic against arteriosclerosis and as an effective remedy for inflamed wounds and relief from insect bites. Its beneficial properties for health and well-being made it an important part of the ancient medical and cultural world. Maybe it is the most important variety of all time of the Greek super food.

Malva has a bitter taste. In contemporary alternative medicine, it is considered an anti-inflammatory and is prescribed for stomach problems, bronchitis, coughs and sore throats.

Greece’s super food, some lesser-known leafy greens:

Sow-thistle/ ζοχιά (zochia). Sonchus oleraceus.
Very well known since ancient times for its healing effects. It was used as a blood purifier and
for high fever. It is quite bitter when raw, but the bitterness goes away if cooked. Sow-thistle contains vitamin C, calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, and iron.

Curly dock/λάπαθο, λαπάθα (lápatho, lapátha). Rumex crispus
Lapatha belongs to the family of sliding plants and there are over 25 different species in Greece. The leaves have a sour taste, are dark green with streaks of yellow and are often used in pies or cooked with meat dishes. Lapatha is associated with many possible health benefits and is thought to relieve osteoporosis, lower blood pressure and help with insect bites. It contains vitamins C, A, B1, B2 and iron.

My garden in the USA

Recipe ideas for Greece’s super foods:

Vinaigrette. One part acid (vinegar, lemon, balsamic or apple cider vinegar), two parts olive oil, salt and pepper. I like to add finely chopped garlic, Dijon mustard, a little honey and herbs. If the vinaigrette is a bit thick, add a little water.

Pie dough and phyllo are often made with leafy vegetables and the variations are endless. Phyllo are now available in the freezer section of most supermarkets. Thaw it slowly in the fridge, but work quickly as they dry quickly. I cover them with damp kitchen towels. My standard recipe for pie dough is one cup of flour, one stick of butter in small cubes and one cup of water. Form it into a ball and let it rest in the fridge for half an hour. Then fix the filling by whisking together eggs and milk, salt, pepper, leafy greens and a pinch of nutmeg.

Spinach rice is a popular everyday dish in Greece and a favorite in our family. Chop and soak a large leek, finely chop fresh onion, dill and mint. Fry everything on medium heat with a little olive oil, add one cup of rice and let it sweat a little. Add the spinach and four cups of water and two vegetable broths.

Nettle drink the Socrates way is easy to make. Boil four cups of water and mix in 2 tablespoons of dried nettles. Simmer under a lid for ten minutes, mix with lemon juice and honey. Drink hot or cold.

Mustard is quite easy to make, but needs a few days before it is ready. Combine 2 oz of brown and 2 oz of yellow mustard seeds with 2 oz of beer or water and 3 oz of white wine vinegar in a jar with a lid and store in the fridge for at least 8 hours. Blend to a paste with a teaspoon of salt in a blender until you get the consistency you want. Store the mustard in a glass jar with a lid at room temperature for one to two days.

Do you have your own recipes for leafy greens or other Greek dishes? We welcome your ideas in the comments section below!

Sources: Wordreference.com, itrofi.gr, eatweeds.co.uk, vita.gr, Wikipedia.org, votaniki.gr, nikosfountas.gr, medlar.gr, mixanitouxronou.gr, ennallaktikidrasi.gr, bodyinbalance.gr, peacehealth.org, nih.gov, academic.our.com, culinaryhill.com.