A living oasis of biodiversity

Podoniftis is not just a historic waterway — it’s also a thriving ecosystem. In its clear waters, fish can often be seen gliding by. Frogs rest on the stones near the banks, while herons and other water birds are frequent visitors along the shore. On spring and summer nights, the air fills with the song of nightingales, and the tiny scops owl, known as “Gionis” in Greek, can be heard hooting in the dark.

Few other places in Athens offer such a close encounter with nature’s quiet spectacle. It’s a striking contrast — between the wild, green world of Podoniftis and the noisy, urban landscape that surrounds it.

Origin and course

Podoniftis has its source on the southwestern slopes of Mount Penteli and flows through areas such as Patima, Vrilissia, Chalandri, and Filothei, before winding its way through Nea Ionia, Nea Filadelfia, and Patisia. Along its path, it has been shaped by both natural forces and human activity. Much of the stream has been covered over by urban development, but certain sections – especially between Nea Ionia and Ano Patisia – remain untouched, open, and accessible as walking trails.

Visiting Podoniftis feels like stepping into another world. Along its banks, you can hear the soft murmur of water that has flowed for thousands of years. It’s a place where time seems to stand still, where nature whispers its ancient stories to those who listen.

Near the intersection of Acharnon and Dekelias in Patisia, however, Podoniftis disappears from view once more, directed into an underground channel. From there, it continues toward Kifissos – the largest river in Attica – where it eventually merges as one of its many tributaries.

Kifissos flows both through and beneath the urban landscape of southwestern Athens, eventually emptying into the Bay of Faliro and the Saronic Gulf. During the 19th and 20th centuries, numerous industries and facilities were established along its banks, particularly in Athens’ heavy industrial zones, leading to severe pollution. Despite repeated cleanup efforts, Kifissos is still considered one of the most burdened rivers in the region. Much of its course today is flanked by major roadways dominated by asphalt, exhaust fumes, and concrete, rather than fresh air and green spaces.
More on Kifissos coming soon on our blog – right here →

Flooding and the threat of being led entirely underground

Historically, Podoniftis has been prone to flooding, especially during heavy rainfall. In 1994, Athens was hit by a severe flood in which Podoniftis overflowed its banks. Seventeen people lost their lives in the disaster, drawing attention to the stream’s risks and vulnerability.

To address these risks, additional stream sections have been covered, which, unfortunately, has resulted in the loss of many natural habitats. Today, voices call for the complete covering of Podoniftis to prevent future disasters. At the same time, several environmental organizations and local groups are fighting to preserve the stream’s open sections and its ecological value.

Administrative challenges hinder development

One reason the area around Podoniftis hasn’t been developed into a pleasant walking route, like the one along the Chalandri stream, is that it runs through four different municipalities: Athens, Nea Ionia, Nea Filadelfeia, and Nea Chalkidona. These municipalities have struggled to agree on coordinated measures to improve and maintain the area.

A stream with shifting moods

Podoniftis is not a stream that always behaves the same way. During dry periods, it flows quietly and gently, as if holding its breath. The water then moves slowly, clear and calm, almost meditative in its rhythm. But after heavy rains, it reveals a very different side.

The water can rise within just a few hours, rushing with a force that feels both alive and dangerous. The once gentle murmur turns into a roar, and the usually peaceful riverbed transforms into a thundering surge of churning, swirling water. In those moments, it becomes clear why debates over covering the stream and ensuring flood safety never fade from the local conversation. It’s as if Podoniftis wants to remind the city of its primal power, of the fact that it has been here long before the fleeting concrete.

A jungle in the heart of the city

Walking there in daylight is an experience in itself. Sunlight filters through the foliage, casting patterns of light and shadow along the banks. Small lizards bask on warm stones, while butterflies and dragonflies dance across the water’s surface. The soundscape is filled with birdsong, yet faint traffic noise in the distance reminds you just how close the city still is. The scent of damp earth and greenery is distinct, especially after rain, when the air feels heavy but fresh. It’s a place for rest, but also for discovery – especially for those who enjoy being immersed in nature.

In the first blue light of dawn, or during the reddish fade of dusk, Podoniftis takes on a tone all its own. The colors soften, contrasted by bursts of bird activity – swallows, blackbirds, and magpies shifting places in the trees. At times, mist drifts over the water, giving the landscape an almost cinematic quality. The light is gentle, and walking here often feels meditative.

Under the full moon, the still water takes on a silvery sheen, and shadows from the overgrown trees stretch across the stream like fleeting, dreamlike memories. The air grows cooler, birdsong fades, replaced by the soft calls of the scops owl, while the movement of the water becomes more pronounced, more present. It’s a place that invites contemplation — a nocturnal dialogue between human and nature, quiet and timeless in a city that otherwise never sleeps.

The name “Podoniftis” – an etymological riddle

The name “Podoniftis” is believed to derive from the Greek words pous (foot) and nipto (to wash), possibly meaning “the foot-washer.” Several theories exist: one suggests the stream was used by travelers or pilgrims to wash their feet. Another links the name to the area of Nea Ionia, which, before the arrival of refugees following the 1922 catastrophe, was known as Podaradika, a name that may have inspired the term Podoniftis

A visit worth the effort

For those who want to experience this hidden gem, the easiest way is to take the metro to Ano Patisia station and then walk west along Chalkidos Street (see map below). After a few hundred meters, a world of greenery, birdsong, and flowing water opens up — a gentle reminder of nature’s presence in the heart of the city.

Podoniftis is more than just a waterway; it is a living witness to the history of Attica and a symbol of nature’s resilience. Preserving and valuing this natural resource is essential for the ecological and cultural future of the entire region.

Getting there

Sources

• https://gexynet.com/the-stream-of-podoniftis/
• Wikipedia podoniftis
• ‘https://greektraveltellers.com/blog/the-buried-rivers-of-athens
• https://greektraveltellers.com/blog/the-buried-rivers-of-athens

The intense seismic activity has prompted authorities to declare the islands in a state of emergency. As a precautionary measure, schools have been ordered to remain closed until further notice. Residents are advised to avoid large gatherings in enclosed spaces and to stay away from certain built-up areas and ports. If stronger tremors occur, residents should also avoid cliff areas and stay away from the coast.

Seismologists emphasize that the current activity is not linked to historical events such as the devastating 1956 earthquake or the volcano at Santorini. Experts are closely monitoring the ongoing tremors, and authorities urge caution while discouraging speculation about larger events.

However, the ongoing tremors serve as a reminder of the forces constantly at play in the Aegean region, where the Eurasian and African tectonic plates are pushing against each other.

For those living on Santorini and Amorgos or with a deeper knowledge of the Aegean Sea’s history, the recent tremors evoke memories of past earthquakes that forever altered the islands. One of the most devastating in modern times occurred in the mid-20th century, leaving deep scars in its wake. On Santorini, 500 buildings were destroyed and over 3,200 damaged, while 54 people lost their lives. On Amorgos, the destruction was extensive, though documentation of the damage remains limited.

The dual catastrophe – the earthquake and the tsunami – left an indelible mark on Greece’s modern history and serves as a reminder of the Aegean Sea’s relentless seismic forces.

Devastation in the Aegean Sea – the 1956 earthquake

Early morning on July 9, 1956, the earth split open beneath the feet of residents in the heart of the Aegean Sea. The tremors were brutal, but it wasn’t just the quake that left indelible scars on the landscape – it was the tsunami that soon struck, the falling rocks, and the shock that became forever etched in the memories of those who experienced the catastrophe.

The earthquake’s epicenter was located south of Amorgos, the easternmost of the Cycladic Islands in the Aegean Sea. It reached a magnitude of 7.5 – one of the highest recorded in Greece during the 20th century. The official death toll rose to just over 50, while hundreds were injured and even more lost their homes and possessions.

📌 Note: The historical images in this article are AI-generated, based on eyewitness accounts, photographic archives, and contemporary descriptions of the events. They are created to provide a visual impression of how the 1956 earthquake and tsunami affected Santorini and Amorgos.

Earth’s Wrath – Seconds of Devastation

The tremors transformed buildings into rubble, and the shock spread far beyond the Cyclades. The seismic tremors affected not just the islands but the entire Aegean region, all the way to the Turkish coast.

The daily newspaper To Vima reported the following day about the scenes of horror that had unfolded in Santorini:

Scenes of terror and panic spread across the stricken Santorini just minutes after the first tremor. Residents fled their homes in panic, rushing through narrow streets in an attempt to reach the beach. Meanwhile, the sound of collapsing houses echoed through the air, accompanied by the deep rumble of earth tremors and black smoke that seemed to rise from the volcano. Dust covered everything, transforming the morning into a nightmare.

Amid the devastation, people fought desperately to save their loved ones. One woman managed to grab her three infants and shield them with her own body as she fled into the street, avoiding the falling stones.

📌 Note: The historical images in this article are AI-generated, based on eyewitness accounts, photographic archives, and contemporary descriptions of the events. They are created to provide a visual impression of how the 1956 earthquake and tsunami affected Santorini and Amorgos.

Others were less fortunate – a café owner became trapped in a doorway and died of suffocation. Elsewhere, a grandmother took her two grandchildren in her arms and managed, stumbling and crawling, to get out unharmed. But the children’s mother, her daughter, lost her life under the rubble.

Six to eight seconds – that’s how long the quake lasted according to initial official reports. A moment that felt like an eternity for those who experienced it. Santorini, already marked by historical catastrophes, was once again struck by devastation. After the main shock, the tremors gradually subsided but continued to be felt for several days. Fearing more quakes, residents stayed outdoors, no one daring to return to their homes.

The tsunami – danger approaching from the sea

📌 Note: The historical images in this article are AI-generated, based on eyewitness accounts, photographic archives, and contemporary descriptions of the events. They are created to provide a visual impression of how the 1956 earthquake and tsunami affected Santorini and Amorgos.

As if the earthquake itself wasn’t enough, the next blow came from the sea. A violent tsunami was triggered by the quake and crashed over the islands. Santorini and Amorgos were particularly hard hit. The water masses, with waves up to 30 meters high, swept away houses, boats, and people – those who hadn’t perished in the rubble now had the sea itself to defend against. The waves spread in all directions, affecting not only the southern islands of the Cyclades but also Crete’s northern coast and the Dodecanese Islands.

Historical accounts describe how the sea at Katapola on Amorgos completely withdrew, allowing people to walk on the exposed seabed – before the waves struck back with devastating force.

Rumors about the volcano

In the first hours of the panic that erupted, many residents reported seeing the volcano erupt, with large amounts of black smoke rising from the crater. However, this turned out to be a misunderstanding.

Seismologists rule out any connection between the earthquake and a volcanic eruption. The tremor was purely tectonic, caused by movements in the Earth’s crust rather than volcanic activity. The presence of the volcano in the area, combined with swirling black dust, may have created the illusion of an eruption, but experts confirm that there is no basis for this claim.

The last confirmed volcanic eruption on Santorini occurred in 1950, six years before the major earthquake, and no unusual seismic activity was recorded at the active craters in connection with the 1956 quake.

The volcanic history of Santorini

Santorini has experienced numerous volcanic eruptions throughout history, varying in strength and explosiveness. At least twelve major explosive eruptions have been documented, four of which were so powerful that they created a new caldera—meaning a collapse of the volcano’s crater, completely reshaping the landscape.

The oldest eruptions occurred between 650,000 and 550,000 years ago, with many of them taking place underwater. Over the past 360,000 years, the volcano has gone through two major cycles, each culminating in two massive caldera-forming eruptions that reshaped the entire island.

During the Bronze Age, the Minoan eruption of Santorini took place—one of the largest volcanic eruptions in human history. The eruption’s epicenter was located in the area that today forms the great caldera.

Before this event, Santorini had the shape of an almost enclosed ring, with only a narrow passage leading into the inner lagoon. The Minoan eruption was so powerful that large parts of this ring disappeared, creating two new channels and giving the island its present form.

This event was one of the most pivotal in the early history of the Aegean Sea and is believed to have contributed to the decline of the Minoan civilization.

After the Minoan eruption, volcanic activity has been concentrated around the Kameni Islands in the center of the lagoon. These islands have gradually formed since the Bronze Age, with the first one rising above sea level in 197 BCE.

Since then, nine eruptions have been documented. In 1707, an underwater volcano broke through the sea surface, creating Nea Kameni, which has since been the focal point of volcanic activity in the area. During the 20th century, three eruptions occurred, the last one in 1950, with no major consequences.

Although the volcano is considered dormant today, steam and carbon dioxide continue to be emitted from the currently active crater on Nea Kameni, while several older craters remain scattered across the island.

Santorini: The 1925 eruption

Historical footage from the 1925 eruption on Nea Kameni, filmed by Professor Georgios Georgalas. The video was created for educational purposes and includes material from ERT’s documentary series “Ταξιδεύοντας στην Ελλάδα” / “Traveling in Greece”. Published on YouTube by Trantafyllos Soldatos.

The Aegean Sea – where three continents meet

For millennia, the Aegean Sea has carried both life and destruction. Santorini and Amorgos, two islands shaped by the forces of the sea and the earth, have repeatedly witnessed nature’s relentless power.

The hundreds of tremors now shaking Santorini and Amorgos serve as a reminder of the region’s geological reality. For the islands’ inhabitants, earthquakes are not distant historical events but a part of everyday life. Just as the survivors of the 1956 earthquake learned to rebuild their communities, today’s islanders continue to adapt—with modern technology, stronger buildings, and well-developed warning systems. Yet beneath the surface, the forces of nature remain as unpredictable now as they were then.

The most devastating earthquakes

The table below shows the most devastating earthquakes in Greece, ranked by magnitude. The strongest tremors are listed at the top and include the number of fatalities.

Sources: To Vima, tovima.com, Wikipedia, ekriti.gr, Ta Nea, iefimerida.gr

📌 Note: The historical images in this article are AI-generated, based on eyewitness accounts, photographic archives, and contemporary descriptions of the events. They are created to provide a visual impression of how the 1956 earthquake and tsunami affected Santorini and Amorgos.

Older articles about Amorgos

Amorgos – a gem in the big blue

Amorgos, a future is being built with the stones of older times

The following text is a slightly revised version of an article by journalist Dimitris Hatzis from 2010, originally published in the magazine Εναλλακτικός Τουρισμός/Alternative Tourism. The text serves as a valuable historical document, capturing the soul of Amorgos at that time. Unfortunately, the magazine was discontinued in 2011 due to the Greek economic crisis.

Several people mentioned in the text are no longer with us, but their memory lives on – both on the island and in the hearts of all who knew them.

By Dimitris Hatzis, journalist
Photos by Zois Louvaris, Georgios Xyftilis, Ulf Björkman

The Cyclades slowly fade into the distance. From the Blue Star ferry deck, I watch as the sun sinks below the horizon, painting the sky in enchanting hues. One by one, the islands slip out of sight, quietly renewing their ancient promise to reappear with the first light of dawn, adorning the traveler’s seafaring journey just as they have for millennia.

Amorgos is the last and most remote outpost of the Cyclades. Yet, the island is also one of the most distinctive. What is it about Amorgos that captures your heart and makes it so special and so beloved?

Join us to find out!

Faint at first and growing clearer the closer we came, Amorgos emerged from the blue light of the Aegean Sea. It was a massive, granite-like formation, a long, narrow mountainous island, so different from all the ones I had encountered before.

Yes, Amorgos gives the impression that some ancient god loved it and chose this very spot to gently place it on the sea. The island, with its beauty and welcoming embrace, generously offers the tenderness and joy needed for those who have traveled so far and faced many challenges to reach it.

Getting to know Amorgos

My visit to Amorgos allowed me to experience the island from The Big Blue during its best time of year, lush, blooming, and fragrant.

The blooming meadows, the beautiful mountain slopes, the steep peaks, the picturesque villages, the endless sandy beaches, and all around the intense blue sea create a scene that instantly captures your heart and ignites a desire to explore further—to discover the island’s world, its customs, traditions, and way of life.

It is the largest island among the island group known as the Small Cyclades, a favorite of many artists, poets, and other seekers and inspired individuals. A hospitable island where the grandeur of nature’s beauty harmoniously blends with the traditional lifestyle of its inhabitants, making it a unique destination for every traveler.

But even the flavors and melodies of Amorgos enchant the visitor. The festivities, along with the meze dishes, local wine, and raki, create the setting for entirely new experiences. The traditional drink rakomelo (warm raki with honey) might leave you “inebriated by the Big Blue.” Those who have experienced it know exactly what I mean.

Amorgos – a historical overview

Amorgos has been inhabited since ancient times. The Cycladic and Mycenaean civilizations have left their mark, which visitors can discover among the ruins of the ancient cities of Minoa, Arkesini, and Aigiali (Melania).

The island was colonized by inhabitants from Miletus and Naxos and participated in the First Athenian League. Control of Amorgos then passed to the Macedonians and later to the Ptolemies and Romans, until the Christianization of the island under Byzantine rule. The renowned Monastery of Panagia Chozoviotissa was founded in 1088 by Emperor Alexios I Komnenos and symbolizes the Byzantines’ long-standing presence on the island before Venetian and later Ottoman rule took over.

The villages of Amorgos

Chora

Around the hill with the windmills, built in a distinctly Cycladic style, lies Chora, the island’s main village, just one kilometer from Katapola, the port on the island’s southern side.

All of the picturesque cobblestone alleys lead to the central square, Loza, and the historic castle in Chora. It’s also worth visiting the archaeological collection at the Gavras Mansion, the small Fotodotis Christ Monastery, and the many whitewashed churches, such as Metropolis, Agioi Pantes, Vlysani, and several others.

Near Chora lies the renowned Monastery of Panagia Chozoviotissa, as well as the smaller Monastery of Agios Georgios Valsamitis and the famous Agia Anna beach, where parts of The Big Blue were filmed.

Katapola

Katapola is a wind-sheltered, safe, and natural harbor favored by many yachts and small boats that visit the area. The churches of Panagia Katapoliani and the Church of the Annunciation are of great interest. Above Katapola, you can see the ruins of ancient Minoa and the old dam at Lefkes. For swimming and relaxation, the picturesque beaches of Kato Akrotiri, Maltezi, Finikies, Tyrokomos, and Agioi Saranta are ideal.

Kato Meria

In the southern part of Amorgos, known as Kato Meria, in addition to the village that gave the area its name, you can also visit the villages Arkesini, Vroutsi, Kolofana, and the stunning beaches of Ammoudi, Mouros, Kalotaritissa, and Paradeisia. Lastly, the small island of Gramvousa lies at the southernmost tip of Amorgos, and you can easily reach it by a small boat.

Aigiali

After crossing the mountain range of Amorgos to the north, a distance of about 10.5 miles, I arrived in Aigiali, the island’s second port. It is a beautiful bay with turquoise waters that enchant the visitor. The port, village, sandy beaches, and the surrounding steep mountains create an impressive view that instantly captures both soul and heart. Many who arrive in Aigiali think, “This is where I want to stay.”

The villages Potamos, Langada, Tholaria

In the steep mountains high above Aigiali lies the village of Potamos, offering an outstanding panoramic view where you can experience one of the most beautiful sunsets in the Aegean Sea.

Langada is one of the most significant villages in the area and is a must-visit. It is located above the cultivated fields of Aigiali and is known for its historic church, Agia Triada, the Araklou Gorge, and the old windmills.

Opposite Langada lies the village of Tholaria, representing the island’s “Spartan” side and offering breathtaking views. Warm and hospitable people will give you a heartfelt welcome to their village. One of the most beautiful cafés in Greece, Kali Kardia (The Good Heart), located next to the main church, will make your heart skip a beat. Sofia, an exceptional individual, and her mother, Mrs. Pletto, will take care of you with the smiles and warmth that define them.

A little further up, Nikolas at the Panorama tavern will sing Amorgian melodies for you, accompanied by his sons, Stamatis on the violin and Paraskevas on the lute.

At the Choreftis (Dancer) café, Anargyros has been trying for years to master the board game tavli. If you know how to play, feel free to challenge him to a game, if you dare.

The beaches

The area is home to many beaches, with Levrossos, Psili Ammos, Vlychada, and Agios Pavlos standing out. The latter is located right across from the “guardian” of Aigiali bay, the small island of Nicouria, which stands out with its distinctive shape. There is also the main beach of Aigiali, with its countless love stories, where during magical and dreamlike nights, colorful dawns, and intoxicating moments, so many different people have experienced the same feeling of unrestrained freedom, Dionysian ecstasy, or simply, true life.

Every part of this endless beach holds something from all those who came to know it before the violent and homogenizing new reality of tourism’s modernization and commercialization swept in. Here, those who know will remember Michalis “Tyri,” Mitsaras with his bouzouki, the crew from the legendary black fishing boat Aldebaran, Nikos Koutis, Georgios “the Swede” and his company, and of course, our beloved kyra-Katina.

Hospitality, tradition, and family warmth

“To Limani tis kyra-Katinas Café and Restaurant” reads the sign outside Aigiali’s most famous restaurant. We spoke with Panagiotis, one of Katina and Antonis Nomikos’ two sons, who, together with his brother Theodoris, runs the place where thousands of visitors each year enjoy authentic Amorgian and Greek cuisine.

The restaurant is deeply associated with Aigiali, and it would not be an exaggeration to say that there isn’t a single visitor to the island who hasn’t been there.

“Tell us, Panagiotis, about the restaurant’s history.”

“The restaurant began its operation in 1980. My father was a cook on boats, and when he retired, we decided to open this restaurant. When we started, there wasn’t even electricity in Aigiali, and we worked with a generator. The food was cooked with gas, and the dishes that needed to be baked in an oven were taken to the village bakery’s oven on trays.”

“People took us to their hearts from the very beginning, perhaps because it was a family business or because my parents were very well-liked. It’s incredibly touching that people have been coming back to us for over 40 years!”

“My wife Lia and I now run the restaurant with my brother Theodoris and his wife Puki. We serve fresh fish and seafood, cheeses, meats, vegetables, and above all, pure, local products. Our goal is to maintain high quality in the food we serve.”

Alternative tourism

I had a pleasant conversation about alternative tourism activities with Vasilis Savvas at the Iris Center for Alternative Vacations, located at the famous tsimentaki, a small seafront walkway where past visitors to the island used to stroll, discuss, and reflect on life.

“When did you decide to settle permanently on Amorgos and work with alternative tourism?”

“I first came to Amorgos in 1982 and worked temporarily as a waiter. In 1992, I decided to settle here permanently, and in my search for something to do on the island, the Iris Center for Alternative Vacations gradually took shape.”

“We started as four people, but today it’s just me and Karin from Sweden who continue to run the center. However, we also have other collaborators. Instructors and teachers from both Greece and abroad come here, as do many visitors, both individually and in groups. They engage in activities like yoga, tai chi, chi gong, dance, astronomy, massage, meditation, and others.”

“Amorgos has always been an island that fosters an alternative lifestyle,” Vasilis continues. “It has a special character. Perhaps it’s the magnetism, the energy the island conveys to its visitors. It’s said to lie on one of the Earth’s energy lines, one of the so-called “ley lines,” and that may be why ancient peoples built so many temples and monuments on this island. There was even a famous water oracle in antiquity, in the area where the Monastery of Agios Georgios Valsamitis now stands.”

“What other alternative activities are available on the island?”

“Hiking, getting to know nature, climbing, and diving are some key activities. Additionally, there is a small astronomical observatory.”

Another unique feature of the island is the abundance of herbs with healing properties, which can be found almost everywhere on Amorgos. The island is also home to many migratory birds and small animals. Since the year 2000, the northern part of the island, above Langada and toward Cape Xodontas, has been included in the Natura program and will become a protected area.

On Amorgos, you can also experience unique festivities with a strong religious, social, and cultural character. During these celebrations, called panigyria, wine and traditional dishes such as xidato and patatato are generously offered. The festivities are always accompanied by traditional music, with local songs and instruments.

Amorgos hiking trails

Amorgos is an island of striking contrasts. Here, mountains and sea are in constant interplay. The towering mountains meet the foaming waves, while lush plains stretch down toward calm bays and beautiful beaches.

Hiking soothes the soul and rewards those who cross the island on stone-paved paths that have been walked for centuries, offering the chance to come into close contact with Amorgos’ nature, its historical monuments, and small villages.

The paths stretch across the entire island, and until the late 1980s, they were the main routes of communication for the inhabitants. Today, some of the main trails have been marked, and a special hiking map has been created.

A remarkable journey through time and tradition

Amorgos offers not only breathtaking landscapes and rich traditions but also an enchanting blend of history, culture, and natural experiences. It is a place where every step on the ancient trails, every encounter with the hospitable locals, and every meal made from local ingredients roots you deeper into the island’s unique soul. Whether you seek peace, adventure, or a journey into Greece’s past, Amorgos is a destination that will always surprise and captivate.

By Dimitris Hatzis, journalist
Photos by: Zois Louvaris, Georgios Xyftilis, Ulf Björkman

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Goddess Artemis, Cult and Sanctuary

The sanctuary at Brauron is one of the most significant archaeological sites in Attica. It was expanded to its final form around the 6th century BC. This was the site of one of the most important festivals in antiquity, the Βραυρώνια/Brauronia, which was dedicated to the Olympian goddess Artemis.

The festivities were held every five years and were considered almost as important as the Eleusinian Mysteries, which we looked at in a previous article.

Artemis is one of the most versatile and fascinating goddesses in Greek mythology. Her cults were spread throughout the ancient Greek world. She was associated not only with hunting and wilderness but also with childbirth, women’s health, children, and youth, especially girls before they reached adulthood. At Brauron, Artemis seems to have been worshiped primarily in this role.

An important element of the Brauronia cult was the ritual ceremonies and processions of young girls approaching marriageable age. The girls were called άρκτοι (arktoi)/bears, symbolizing their transition from childhood to adulthood.

They honored Artemis through sacred dances, dressed in saffron-colored garments. They ran races and made offerings to the goddess. Sometimes, nudity was part of these rites of passage, symbolizing the girls’ preparation for adult life.

Before getting married, the girls also sacrificed their childhood toys to Artemis, and many of these objects have been found in the temple area.

During the later classical period, Artemis was also identified with Σελήνη/Selene, the personification of the moon. She was often said to wander in forests and mountains, accompanied by her nymphs. The Roman equivalent of Artemis is Diana.

Artemis temple

The temple dedicated to Artemis itself was built on the slope of a 78-foot-high hill where a spring, considered sacred, still flows. Today, only the foundations of the temple remain, as it has been destroyed over time by wars and natural disasters.

In the 15th century, the Byzantine chapel of Agios Georgios was built on the same site, partially carved into the rock. Nearby, the remains of an ancient church dated to the 5th century AD have also been found.

Stoa – The Colonnade

North of the temple, around the 5th century BC, what now dominates the site was built: a στοά/stoa – a colonnade or open hall, in the shape of a “Π” (Pi). It served as a central gathering place during religious festivals and promoted a sense of community among those honoring Artemis. Important ceremonies were performed here, and meals were held in honor of the goddess.

Adjacent to this was a smaller stoa that housed several rooms where the arktoi girls lived. Although this smaller stoa was never fully completed, it was actively used during the festivities in classical times. Several of the girls’ names have been found as inscriptions on the remains of the walls in this stoa.

In both colonnades, gifts and small statues were also placed, which parents offered as sacrifices when they put their children under the goddess’s protection.

Iphigenia’s tomb

The remains of what is said to be the mythological tomb of Iphigenia can be seen just east of the Temple of Artemis. The tomb was originally located inside a cave, whose roof collapsed already during the Classical period.

Iphigenia was the daughter of King Agamemnon and Queen Clytemnestra in Greek mythology. As told in the Iliad, before the Greeks could sail to Troy, the goddess Artemis demanded that Iphigenia be sacrificed to ensure favorable winds for the fleet.

At the last moment, Artemis saved Iphigenia and took her to the land of Tauris, on the coast of the Black Sea. With the help of her brother Orestes, she later returned to Greece. According to one version of the myth, retold by Euripides, Iphigenia arrived in Brauron, where she became the high priestess of Artemis.

A cult site since the Stone Age

Numerous archaeological finds have shown that the area of Brauron has been inhabited since ancient times. The hill and the sacred spring have played an important role in religious rituals as early as the Neolithic period and throughout the Bronze Age. The cult of Artemis is believed to have emerged and developed around the 9th century BC.

Unfortunately, much of the sanctuary was destroyed during the Persian invasion in 480 BC, but the site was partially rebuilt later during the Classical period. The festivities at Brauron began to decline after the 3rd century BC.

Sanctuaries near Athens: the museum in Brauron

The Archaeological Museum of Vravrona is located just a few hundred meters from the sanctuary. The permanent exhibition showcases finds from the excavations of the temple area and other nearby archaeological sites.

The exhibition focuses on the history of Brauron, from prehistoric settlements to ancient monuments, as well as traditions linked to the cult of Artemis. The museum also houses antiquities and finds from surrounding municipalities.

The museum has five exhibition halls, an inner courtyard, as well as storage and workshops for the preservation and conservation of archaeological finds.

Opening hours: Every day except Tuesday, 08:00 – 15:30.

You can download the museum guide in PDF format here (English/Greek) >>

The wetland of Brauron

The natural riverbed environment that still dominates the area around the mouth of the Erasinos River provides the land with an abundant water supply, and the Brauron area today forms an important wetland protected under Natura 2000, a European network for biodiversity conservation.

The Brauron wetland is home to a wide variety of plants and animals, many of which are very rare. Many herons find refuge here, while rare birds of prey nest on the surrounding hills. This ecological richness makes the area a central point for both history and nature conservation in the region.

Artemis – a versatile goddess

Artemis was a complex and versatile deity in Greek mythology. Her cults varied depending on the location and local traditions. In Ephesus, on the coast of Asia Minor, she was worshiped as a maternal fertility goddess. Her temple, the Artemision, was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and an important center for the veneration of the goddess as a protector of motherhood and fertility.

In Sparta, she appeared as Artemis Orthia, a strict goddess who oversaw the education and physical training of young Spartans. Here, her role was closely tied to discipline and strength, qualities that were important in Spartan culture.

On the island of Delos, where according to mythology she and her twin brother Apollo were born, grand festivals were held in their honor. The island was a significant religious center, and Artemis was worshiped here as a powerful deity associated with birth and rites of passage.

Artemis was worshiped in many different ways, but everywhere she remained a powerful symbol of nature’s wild beauty and the female life cycle. She was a central figure in ancient Greece’s religious life and one of the oldest deities to be worshiped.

Brauron – Βραυρώνα

Sources

Greek Wikipedia, Greek Ministry of Culture, archaiologia.gr, Archeological Museum in Brauron

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The Environment Museum in Stymphalia is more than just a mere space of display; it serves as a gateway to the entire area’s unique mix of rich cultural heritage, historical and mythological significance and is framed by rare natural beauty. As promised in our article Off the beaten track in Northern Peloponnese, today we will explore this hidden gem and its surroundings.

To reach the museum from the south, we wind our way through breathtaking serpentine roads high in the mountainous regions of Corinthia. We are now eager to share our experiences from this captivating destination.

Stymphalia: where myth meets reality

Lake Stymphalia is situated on a high plateau between Kyllini (Ziria) and Oligyrtos mountains, with peaks over 6500 feet high. The lake is the Balkan Peninsula’s southernmost mountain wetland and presents a fantastic sight, especially in spring when the surrounding landscape explodes in vibrant hues.

The lake’s surface mirrors the sky and the surrounding mountains, while reeds and other dense vegetation dominate the shores. Sometimes veils of mist drift over the water, creating an enigmatic atmosphere, making it easy to understand why this place has such a prominent role in Greek mythology.

According to legend, Lake Stymphalia was the site of Hercules’ sixth labor, where he confronted the man-eating Stymphalian birds. The hero used bronze rattles, given by the goddess Athena, to drive the birds out of their hiding places in the dense vegetation and then defeat them with his arrows.
We’ll return to this legend in our series on Greek gods and mythology. Standing by the lake’s edge, it’s not hard to picture this epic battle unfolding across the misty waters.

Beyond its mythological significance, Lake Stymphalia is an important ecological habitat. It’s home to many birds, including the rare ferruginous duck (Aythya nyroca), a medium-sized duck known for its characteristic white eyes and ability to hide in the reeds. The lake also hosts endemic fish species such as Pelasgus stymphalicus, locally known as “Ντάσκα/dáska”. Growing up to 12 cm long, this small carp fish has adapted to survive by burying itself in the mud during dry periods.

Both these species are threatened, mainly due to loss of their habitats, pollution, and fishing or hunting. The area’s ecological importance and need for protection are recognized through Lake Stymfalia’s inclusion in the European network of protected areas, NATURA 2000.

As we walked around the lake, the stillness was broken only by birdsong, the whisper of the wind, and the soft lapping of water. The area offers many activities for visitors, including hiking on marked trails that pass historical sites, such as the ruins of the ancient town of Stymphalos. Birdwatching is particularly popular, and enthusiasts can see a variety of species including ducks, grebes, herons, and raptors. The European Euro Birdwatch Day has been held at Stymfalia several times.

The Environment Museum: a time travel in the ecosystem

Complementing the lake’s natural beauty is the Environment Museum of Stymphalia. As we approached the museum, we were immediately struck by its modern architecture. The building, skillfully constructed with concrete, stone, and wood, blends seamlessly into the surrounding landscape. Its glass facade offers a panoramic view of the lake and the forested mountain slopes beyond, creating a fantastic visual connection between the indoor exhibits and the living environment outside.

The Environment Museum opened in 2010 as part of The Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation – PIOP’s museum network, in collaboration with the EU and the Greek state. The network consists of seven different themed museums spread across Greece. Read more about other museums in the network here >>

We have previously covered the PIOPS museum network in our article on the silk town of Soufli:

A fascinating geology

The Environment Museum is divided into two main sections. The first focuses on the unique environment of the Stymfalia basin. Here we gained access to detailed information about the region’s fascinating geology, its status as an important wetland, and its rich biodiversity. The exhibits in this section excellently illustrate how land, water, and local flora and fauna have interacted over millennia.

What we found most striking was the smaller permanent exhibition Cross-section Through the Lake. This innovative display brings the lake’s ecosystem indoors, allowing visitors to observe local plants and fish up close. It’s a brilliant way to connect the inside of the museum with the living world outside its walls.

Human presence since time immemorial

Another section of the museum explores how humans have interacted with this environment throughout history. From the time of the ancient town of Stymphalos to today, people have found ways to coexist with nature in this unique landscape. The exhibits in this section focus on traditional occupations such as agriculture, fishing, and beekeeping – all shaped by the specific conditions of the Stymphalia basin.

The museum uses various modern means of expression and audiovisual tools to enhance the visitor’s experience. These multimedia elements elevate the experience without overshadowing the central message about the delicate balance between human activity and environmental conservation.

A harmonious blend of nature and culture

The museum terrace offers a great view of Lake Stymphalia, surrounded by the region’s majestic mountains and dense vegetation.

The museum gives visitors insight into the region’s ecosystem and a profound understanding of the relationship between humans and nature.

The permanent exhibitions offer an in-depth understanding of how the landscape and its biodiversity have been shaped by the interplay between nature and humans over centuries.

For travelers in northern Peloponnese, Lake Stymfalia and its Environment Museum offer an unexpected gem off the usual tourist trails. Here, myth and reality blend in a landscape that inspires and educates.

As we left the place, we felt our heads full of images from the enchanting landscape and our hearts filled with respect for the delicate balance between humans and nature that has characterized this place for millennia. Stymfalia is more than just a destination – it’s a reminder of the timeless connection between our cultural heritage and the nature that shaped it.

You can download the Environment Museum’s pdf guide here>>

Materials and photos courtesy of the: Pireus Bank Group Cultural Foundation
Sources: Wikipedia, PIOP

In this Part 2 of my roamings, I will continue with a few more entries about the first trips I made to the country whose charm I have not been able to resist ever since. With the hope that the trips to Greece will become ever more frequent in the years to come..

1978. Road trip instead of island hopping

Stockholm – Germany – Belgium – France – Switzerland – Italy – Yugoslavia – Greece Halkidiki – Kavala – Thassos – Alexandroupolis – Istanbul – Bulgaria – Hungary – Austria – Germany.

In 1978 I had plans to make a longer trip as I had the possibility to be on vacation for 6 – 7 weeks in the summer. Together with three good friends we decided to attempt a road trip through Europe. Our vague goal was to get as far as Istanbul, if now the car would do the job. We had bought a Ford Transit for a good price and rebuilt it so that all four of us could sleep in it, if necessary.

The basic idea was that we would drive on small roads as much as possible.
After the long journey through Germany, the Netherlands, Belgium, France, Switzerland, Italy, and Yugoslavia, we finally crossed the Yugoslav-Greek border. By that time, 4-5 weeks had already passed since we left Sweden and started our journey through Europe. Thus, Greece became just a part of our travel.

Kavala – Thasos – Chalkidiki

When we arrived in Greece, we realized that the time would not be enough for a visit to Istanbul if we lingered in the country. That meant that there was not much time for Greece this time. I had already been quite short in Thessaloniki a couple of times in previous years, and unfortunately also this time the visit there became short. However, we managed to see parts of Halkidiki (Kassandra and Sithonia), as well as charming Kavala.

We also stayed a few days on Thasos, a nice island that was still almost completely unexploited. On Thasos we found entirely untouched nature and empty beaches and we were able to gather some peace and calm that we thought would be needed in Istanbul. I also remember a stop for lunch in the town of Alexandroupolis, before it was time to head towards Mikligarðr / Constantinople / Istanbul. But that is a completely different story.

From Istanbul we drove home through Bulgaria, Yugoslavia, Hungary, Austria, Germany and Denmark. We had traveled about 8,500 miles, and the car was still working! Much thanks to small local auto-repair shops, some oil, a few kicks, some more oil and a lot of love.

1979. A return to Greece – first visit to Amorgos

Stockholm – Copenhagen – Hamburg – Munich – Athens – Amorgos – Sifnos – Athens – Amsterdam

In the summer of 1979 it was time for island-hopping in Greece again. It would be my fourth time visiting the country. After the long road trip in 1978, I felt that it would be perfect with another train and interrail trip, my fourth and probably last. (It may of course happen that we will dust off our backpacks and hit the rails of Europe again, a thought which has become increasingly tempting in recent years).

It started with music recordings

Already in 1977, I had decided to visit lesser known Greek islands on my next trip. During those years, I was working on an essay for my university class in musicology, together with a group of other students. A large part of our work involved recording the music of various immigrant groups in Stockholm. It was a truly enjoyable job that allowed us to discover a plethora of good and exciting music. Several of the bands we recorded were Greek and it was through them that I got the valuable tips about Amorgos and Sifnos.

Amorgos – love at first sight

Well, it may not have been the very first sight, because the arrival at the port of Katapola took place in the middle of the night, after perhaps 12 – 13 hours trip on the worn ferry Agios Georgios. Most ferries that went to the smaller islands often had difficult arrival times, as I remember. It was pitch black night when we stepped ashore, so we didn’t see much of the island.

At the pier, me and many other people spontaneously ended up on a very old bus. It was a 1957 Dodge, as one of the passengers said. In this late hour, without thinking too much, I decided that I would go to Chora, the main village, which was about 20 – 25 minutes up in the mountains (today the same trip takes maybe 10 minutes).

Chora and Katapola

The bus stopped, around four in the morning, in front of the cafe/tavern To Kastro. It was a place that later on would mean a lot to me, but at the time I didn’t know that. The next challenge was to find somewhere to sleep. I had traveled with Terje, a Norwegian guy I had met on the train, and we quickly decided to follow a local woman, Maria, who offered rooms to rent. So before we really knew what had happened, in just a few minutes, we had a roof over our heads, right in the very heart of Chora.

I still remember waking up in this amazing village, as beautiful as the pictures on all the postcards you’ve seen from Greece. Whitewashed houses, narrow alleys, donkeys and friendly people. It immediately became clear that I had found the right place. For sure, Ios was beautiful, as was Corfu, but Chora on Amorgos was even more outstanding! I immediately had an overwhelming feeling of being at home!

This first time I stayed almost three weeks in Chora, but changed accommodation a couple of times. When Terje went back home, I shared a room with Jesper, a nice Dane, and Phil, an Australian (as well as with an unnamed mouse that happily ate of our bread).
We tourists, or travelers as many chose to call themselves, quickly got into the village life. In those days there were not too many taverns or cafes, let alone bars, so you often ended up in the same place as everyone else. The social hub of the village was the cafe/tavern To Kastro, which was located where the bus from Katapola had its final stop. Here we slowly but surely got to know people. I often had the opportunity to chat with Parvas and his family, who ran the tavern.

Swimming in the Big Blue

During the days, we spent most of our time swimming. There were several options to choose from. The closest, just below Chora, was Agia Anna, a beautiful rocky shore where parts of the movie The Big Blue were filmed. Other times we took the old bus to the harbour village of Katapola, and from there boarded a small boat out to the rocks, where you could swim naked if you wanted to – although some times the police disagreed with us about the latter. Occasionally, we would hike down to Katapola, which was a unique experience, especially if you chose to follow the donkey trail, although such walk took its own time.

After the wonderful dives and swims we enjoyed during the day, many of us would gather at the central square of Katapola. There you could sit down in one of the three cafés: To Kamari, The Pirate or Nikoletta’s, in order to get some food and drinks. The whole square looked different back then, still unaffected by the hotels later built, or the sun-shields and ceilings the cafés were covered with the years to come. It was an open and simple meeting place.

To Kamari, is today run by Michalis, son of Georgios and Evangelia, the couple who started the tavern/café at that time. Maria, the daughter of the family, became an important person for us tourists as she spoke good English and could act as an interpreter. To Kamari still feels to me like the center of Katapola, although today they no longer serve so much prepared food, apart for some good pies and pastries. We loved to sit outside those taverns/cafes after swimming in the azure sea and sunbathing on the flat rocks.

Most of the time, the bus driver honked the horn at us Chora residents, that it was time to go up the mountain. But even driver-Vangelis sometimes needed to res,t and then we had to go with a truck. We sat on the back of the truck, on wooden benches. A canopy was also set up as protection from the sun and wind.

Already after a couple of days, I knew that Amorgos was the place I had been looking for. In that time, you didn’t meet many tourists there, neither in Chora nor in Katapola.

Aegiali

It took me a while to realize that there was another very nice part of the island, Aegiali/Αιγιάλη. This first year, however, I didn’t make it all the way there.

At that time, there were no car roads, so you had to take a ferry between the two ports of the island, or walk for about 4-5 hours on ridge trails over the mountains. At the end of the 1970s, the ferry Marianna was the lifeline between the small Cycladic islands and Naxos (Marianna was a Norwegian fjord boat that originally was called Vaeröy). The owner and captain of the ship was the later legendary Skopelitis, who was also a very talented violinist.

The larger ferries served both Katapola and Aegiali, but in the 1970s, the latter port could not harbour the ships in the small quay. Instead, the passengers had to jump or climb from the ferry down to the small boats, latzes/λάντζες, which transported the passengers ashore. Quite a nasty experience sometimes, especially in strong winds. More about Aegiali in the next episode of my Greek roamings (part 3).

Although I had already fallen in love with the country of Greece, I now also fell in love with the island of Amorgos. I knew I would return. And with a little hindsight, I can say that there have been over thirty revisits since then.

1979. Sifnos

I had promised myself to visit two islands this summer. Again, I traveled alone, but when I remember those trips, I think that I was never really alone. I met people constantly throughout my journey – some completely new acquaintances, or some already familiar faces encountered along the way. I now had only 10 days left to explore a new island before my train would depart heading North. I also wanted to stay a few days in Athens, my favorite city. Several people I met on Amorgos praised Sifnos as a fantastic island. So it became my next stop on this, my fourth, Greek odyssey.

I came to Sifnos directly after Amorgos in August 1979 and was quite heartbroken about having to leave my newfound love behind. But Sifnos turned out to be a wonderful balm for my heartache, even if the encounter with this island was not as strong as the one with Amorgos. From the northwestern port of Kamares, I took a very old bus straight to the mountain village of Kastro, via the slightly larger settlement of Apolonia.

The village of Kastro had been described to me as very picturesque and beautiful, and it really was! A fantastic place with only two minor disadvantages – there was a lack of accommodations offered, and no real restaurant to find. But we quickly discovered a small grocery store / παντοπωλείον, which sometimes served simple dishes in its beautiful garden. In addition, there was a small taverna at the tiny beach, just below Kastro. Simple food was often offered there, although it could take an awfully long time to get any order in.

One evening, I ordered potatoes and meatballs. The tasty potatoes arrived after maybe only 20 – 30 minutes, while the meatballs took so long that I forgot about them (perhaps because of the delicious retsina that you had to serve yourself). But when the meatballs finally did arrive, after almost 2 – 3 hours waiting, they were tasty, carefully seasoned, and prepared with love.

During the 5 – 6 days I spent on Sifnos, I stayed most of the time in this small village of Kastro, with a minor break for a bank visit in Apolonia. I had managed to find a kind of basement abode to live in, which I shared with a Norwegian couple. A simple and discreet retreat but with a magnificent view. In the east you could even see the island of Antiparos when it was not too hazy.

Kastro was truly a gem, where the villagers seemed to have little interest in exploiting their community for the sake of tourism. On my visit in the summer of 1979 there were perhaps 10-15 tourists, mostly from Norway, and we all enjoyed the local society. I was lucky enough to be there on August 15th, when the Virgin Mary’s Ascension Day is celebrated, and had the chance to experience the beautiful ceremony and feast/πανηγύρι in the whitewashed alleys of the village.

I promised myself that I would return to explore Sifnos more thoroughly, which I did many years later. I visited the island with my wife and children, and that time we became very fond of another village, Faros, on the south-eastern side of the island, where we stayed for a week. With Faros as a base, we got the chance to explore larger parts of the whole beautiful island.

Last year, 2023, we came back to Sifnos again. This time we only stayed three nights in the arrival port of Kamares. But we had time for a wonderful hike over the mountains between Apolonia and Kamares.

Sifnos definitely has an obvious place on our list of favorites in Greece.

The 1980s begins

The trip of 1979 brought an end to the era of traveling by train or car. Interrail had become a lifestyle where the journey was as much a part of the destination as the actual destination of the trip. In the early 1980s, however, I felt too old for Interrail. I also wanted to stay a little longer in Greece than the 3 weeks I managed in the previous years, as the train journey itself took about a week in total.

In the forthcoming chapters of my wanderings, cheap flights will play the main role in how I travel. But it is during those coming years that my love for Greece and especially for the island of Amorgos really deepens.

The 1980s were the decade when I began to get to know Greece more in-depth.

So here are a few lines about the first trips I made to the country that became my favorite. My traveling there has continued since then and will hopefully continue for several more years.

1976. The first journey

Stockholm – Copenhagen – Hamburg – Munich – Milan – Bologna – Brindisi – Corfu – Athens – Ios – Sikinos – Thessaloniki – Amsterdam

Thanks to the Interrail pass, you could at that time in a cheap manner get around Europe and thus get the opportunity to see large parts of the countries where the card was valid. In 1976, the age limit for Interrail cards was raised to 23 years (from 20 I think) so I had a couple of years left to jump on the trains to the continent and eventually to Greece.

I started traveling by train already in 1975, but mostly in Spain and France. I often met a lot of other train enthusiasts who had traveled around Greece. They were thrilled by their visits to a country that had managed to get rid of the military junta just a few years ago and that breathed positivism, joy and opportunity. At the end of the summer, I found myself on the French Riviera and realized that neither time nor money would be enough to continue to Greece. But right then I made the decision. The next summer, the interrail journey through Europe would lead to the long-awaited Greece. And the following year, the dream became a reality.

Just like the year before, I was traveling alone. I still remember how exciting it was when the train left the platform of Copenhagen and finally I was on my way. That very special feeling of freedom, of having a month’s vacation ahead of you and no other plans than to take the easiest way to Greece by train. I always loved going by train and now I got a good dosage of this mode of transportation.

Train change in Hamburg, Munich and Milan and then on to Brindisi, down at the tip of Italy. Our train from northern Italy arrived in the middle of the night and the ferries to Greece only left in the evening, which meant I had to wait a whole day in Brindisi. However, this was not so bad as it turned out. I still remember Brindisi of that time as a pretty cool city, one of the oldest in Italy, I understand. But the next evening I excitedly jumped on the ferry to Corfu.

Corfu – the gateway

This island was my first contact with Greece and I was absolutely stunned! Already on arrival I was completely overwhelmed by the warmth and friendliness of the locals. Their curiosity and genuine interest made me feel seen, despite my young age, in a way I had rarely experienced before. And last but not least – the wonderful nature, the amazing beaches, with their turquoise waters, framed by steeply plunging cliffs.

Once in Corfu harbor, I joined a fairly large group of young people my age. We ended up at the Kontokali campsite, a bit outside the town, where there was room in a dormitory for a few drachmas per night. It was like being in a big family with young people from all sorts of different countries.

I did not know much about Corfu, or Κέρκυρα/Kerkyra, as it is called in Greek, other than what I had read in brochures from the Greek National Tourist Office. Like so many others, I rented a moped and saw much of the island. One day I also rented a car, together with two Swedes and a Norwegian. We discovered pretty much the rest of Corfu this way.

I remember there was a local feast the first night in the village next to the campsite. A fantastic evening where I learned to like ouzo, knock the bottom out of wine bottles and dance Sirtaki. Just imagine! Good start, I felt, on my first visit in Greece.
Retsina-wine I had more difficulty with this first year but I learned to like it a few years later, Slow but steady wins the race. I think I stayed 4 – 5 days in Corfu.

Athens – love at first sight

I quick began to realize that the journey through Greece would be marked by coincidences and by going with the flow. I was one in a crowd of young travelers who all seemed to be following roughly the same route: train to Brindisi, then ferry across to Corfu. After a few days, the flow took me to the port city of Patras, on the mainland of the Peloponnese, after which I continued east towards Athens.

In Patras, it was mostly a short stopover before the journey continued towards the capital and the archipelago that loomed far away on the horizon. But that feeling of freedom and adventure, not knowing where the journey would take me next, was a big part of the charm of the whole Greek experience. At that time, many people traveled to Greece through former Yugoslavia, but I still think the majority came via Italy.

I loved Athens from the first moment! My first accommodation in the city was near Victoria Square. Like so many others, I had received a flyer at Larissa station for the Athens Youth Hostel. But I moved away after a few days to a hostel closer to Plaka – Athens’ historic center, because that’s where you hung out and met people. I found a bed on a rooftop for a mere penny.

Plaka was nicely bohemian at that time, lots of music, maybe even a bit too much music, if you liked to sleep, but it was not something that really bothered us who were young at that time. OK, a lot of the music being played was, to be honest, absolutely awful, with blaring speakers, squeaky organs and choir synthesizers. But a great deal of it was also fantastic. Already on this first trip I became interested in Greek music, especially rebetiko.

However, it was soon time to start island hopping!

Island hopping to Ios

July was coming to an end and it was very hot in Athens. Now the Greek islands were really appealing. The original plan was to visit Paros, because I had heard from others that it would be nice. Maybe later also to Ios, which almost everyone I met told me was the coolest island. After a few incredibly funny days in Athens, it was time to head off to Paros, which I knew almost nothing about.

The old ferry Leto skimmed very slowly from Piraeus through rather large waves and after a number of slightly seasick hours she docked at the port of Paros. The small harbor looked very calm and peaceful. But almost none of my fellow travelers got off here. On a whim, I stayed on the boat to Ios, where, according to legend, Homer himself died and was buried.

I still remember the nice bay of Ios and the beautiful main village of Chora, sparkling like a white gemstone above. We immediately found a simple room to rent from an older Greek woman, it was located between the harbor and the village.

Chora offered lots of fun bars and cozy taverns that served good food at a mouth-watering price. There I ran into a lot of familiar faces both from home and new friends I had made during the trip.

Every evening at sunset you could listen to classical music at the Ios Club bar, a wonderful musical experience in the warm dusk light. I went swimming like most others on Mylopotas beach. I absolutely do not regret that I went off on Ios, because the days on this island were outstanding funny and festive, but after five days I was completely exhausted.

Onwards to Sikinos

One of the days before returning to Athens, I made a day trip to the nearby island of Sikinos, together with some Swedes. It was probably the hottest day of the whole trip. We missed the mule transport to the main village of Sikinos and got stuck in the harbor. The owner of the only open tavern said he had no energy to cook as it was too hot. We also did not manage to walk up to the village because of the heat.

However, we could take drinks out of the freezer where a number of pilsners lay together with a bunch of fish. I began to understand that this is how it could be in Greece. Simple, charming but sometimes also a little … annoying. But the fish-scented beers kept the mood up. In the end, the owner of the tavern served us small snacks, but it was just when the boat was about to depart back to Ios. Pretty fun, when you get some distance to it all.

Return trip 1976

Back in Athens, I took the opportunity to visit several of the attractions, had time to sleep in a few more hostels, before it was time to get on the train together with the small group of Swedes who had gotten to know each other during this trip.

First stop to the north was Thessaloniki. Unfortunately, we did not get a good feel for the city on this first visit, largely because we were hit by a huge thunderstorm where lightning struck all around us. A bolt of lightning hit a power pole that started to burn just a few meters from where we were and it became pitch black in the surrounding neighborhoods. A tremendous thundershower made us quickly jump on the train to northern Europe a day earlier than we expected.

The train was as full as only a train in the former Yugoslavia could be. A girl in the company was robbed of her passport on the train (in the sleeping cabin) in the middle of the night, which put her in trouble. The Germans would not let anyone through without a passport. But it was solved when the German police made sure that we did not belong to Bader Meinhof and after visiting the Swedish consulate in Munich for a temporary passport.

The trip ended in Amsterdam. My first thought upon returning to Sweden was to start saving for a new trip so that I could go island hopping in Greece again next year.

The month-long wandering was the absolute coolest trip I had made so far in my life!

1977. Second journey

Stockholm – Copenhagen – Hamburg – Munich – Bologna – Brindisi – Corfu – Athens – Ios – Thessaloniki – Halkidiki – Amsterdam – Stockholm

My second trip to Greece followed pretty much the beaten path from the previous year. Train to Brindisi with various changes and then the ferry to Corfu.

Campsite Kontokali was not nearly as nice this year. Already the year before, some guests had problems with the manager. He was particularly rude to the Italians, who often traveled in large groups. In my opinion they were very nice people, but he got stuck on the fact that they were singing socialist songs like Bandiera Rossa etc. This was explained when I went to pay for my stay and saw that he had a large photo of former dictator Papadopoulos on the wall. That came as a bit of a shock. After an argument between the owner and especially the Italians, many of us left the campsite.

It was a pity as most of us had enjoyed very nice days in Corfu. But this time I got time to see a bit more of the beautiful old town.

Revisiting Athens

Then I headed off to Athens again, a city I really enjoyed the year before. It was a pretty long stay in Athens this time. I spent quite a lot of time up on the Acropolis rock. Despite the large amount of tourists, it was magical to sit up there (which it still is).

Also the Lykavittos hill got a couple of visits again. In addition to the view from these two hills, it is also pleasantly cool there when the city is at its hottest.

Already in 1976 I became very fond of the central food market in Athens, Varvákios Agorá, as it is called in Greek – on Athinas Street. I love food markets. This time I was there daily and sometimes even at night – the market is open around the clock – when you could eat patsá/πατσά, a soup from pork leg and belly. I had to try this, as Greeks said that you did not become “day after” if you ate the soup before going to bed. Do not really know if it is true. However, I have eaten patsá, or some variant of it, only once more since then.

Plaka and Monastiraki were also this year the places where everyone met. Other areas I liked in Athens were Thissio and Psyri/Ψυρρή. The latter neighborhood was at that time full of workshops, with craftsmen, shoemakers, carpenters, etc, mixed with simple taverns and small cafes. Very far from today’s restaurant- and tourist-dense Psyri.

In 1976 I also ended up at the fantastic tavern Diporto (which means two doors). A place I have returned to several times. A must experience, located near the central fruit and vegetable market. Back in the 70s, it was run by a father and son. You can read more about the history of Diporto here. It is still a very popular place today. Pretty much the same menu every year. Fasolakia (broad beans in tomato sauce), some kind of soup, grilled sardines and maybe something more, but always simple, very tasty and cheap.

Ios, Halkidiki, Yugoslavia

After city life in Athens, the desire for swimming and sun was strong. It was time to go island hopping again. I spent 5 – 6 days on Ios, where it was crazy partying, just like the year before. Although it was fun, I had a longing for smaller places, not as intense.

Soon it was time to head home. In order for the trip not to be identical as the year before, I chose to stay a few days in Thessaloniki. From there, I also hitchhiked a couple of days in Halkidiki (Kassandra Peninsula), before heading back north with the train through Yugoslavia.

After this second trip to Greece, I decided that from now on I wouldn’t get sucked into the current, but start discovering new places on my own. I thought I would return to Corfu and Ios but that has not yet happened. There have been so many attractions in Greece, but mainly I fell for the favorite, Amorgos. More about this amazing island in the next installment of the wanderings on the blog.

Moreover, Soufli and its surroundings offer an impressive variety of attractions, such as an outstanding national park, a 45-million-year-old fossil forest, several prehistoric megalithic monuments, as well as numerous Muslim and Christian religious sites.
Another aspect highlighted by the UNWTO is Soufli’s excellent wine and meat production, the beekeeping and other local traditions and crafts. “Soufli is perfectly placed to develop an alternative to mass tourism by focusing on offering unique experiences with a local touch,” concludes the UNWTO.

The silk town of Soufli is emerging

The town and municipality of Soufli are located in northeastern Greece and are stretched out on the eastern side of the mighty Rhodope Mountains. The city center is located just 1600 feet away from the Evros River, which forms the natural border between Greece and Turkey.

The area has a long history dating back to prehistoric times. Megalithic monuments, rock paintings, sacrificial sites and inscriptions indicate very early human presence. Ancient tombs and other important archaeological finds confirm a flourishing civilization during the Hellenistic period.

According to Dr Athanassios Gouridis, civil engineer-archaeologist of Municipality of Soufli, the town was first mentioned 1401-1402, (as Sofular Mehmedi) when it was tax-freed in order for the inhabitants to serve as river – passers. Another early documentation is dated back to 1667 when the Turkish traveler Evliya Çelebi mentions that “Sofulu is a main village that does not pay taxes to the Sublime Porte” (Ottoman Empire).
Eventually, Soufli developed into an important hub for trade and cultural exchange. In the 19th century, the city became the administrative center of a rich province that stretched on both sides of the Evros Valley.

The development of new methods of silk production and the expansion of the national railway network in the late 19th century contributed significantly to the impressive economic development of the following decades. The city’s economy flourished and prosperity increased significantly in the wake of the expanding silk industry. At the same time, there was a social and cultural renaissance. The population of the silk town of Soufli almost tripled at the turn of the century and the educational level of its inhabitants increased significantly. Alongside the many silk factories, new schools, churches and theaters were built, which still characterize the townscape today.

In the latter part of the 20th century, however, there was a marked deterioration in economic prosperity and a slowdown in previously prosperous development. This decline can be attributed to a variety of factors. The Greco-Turkish war of 1919-22, when Soufli lost tens of thousands of hectares of land with mulberry trees east of the river Evros, and the introduction of synthetic silk are perhaps the main reasons for this deterioration. In the latter part of the 20th century, Soufli suffered several devastating floods in its low-water areas. In the summer of 2023, the catastrophic forest fires that raged throughout Greece destroyed large parts of the Dadia National Park.

Cocoon houses – koukoulospita

The UNWTO motivation also praised the historic local architecture of Soufli, especially the characteristic cocoon houses (κουκουλόσπιτα/koukoulospita or μπιτζικλίκια/bitziklikia). They are impressive two- or three-storey brick buildings in an industrial style with symmetrical facades and large open interiors. In these buildings, silkworms were bred in large beds of mulberry leaves where they spun their precious cocoons. The buildings also served as housing for the families of the silk producers. There are several dozen cocoon houses left in the silk town of Soufli. Most are now abandoned but some have been renovated and refurbished. One of the most famous is Kalesis’ cocoon house, which has been converted into a small hotel, hotel Koukouli.

In the cocoon houses, the silk worm practiced its extraordinary art for many decades. It is almost inconceivable to us that a tiny worm that hatches from an egg smaller than one tenth of an inch, feeds on mulberry leaves until it grows thousands of times larger, and at the same time spins a cocoon of silk thread that can be 1500 miles long!

Recent recovery

The UNWTO’s selection of the silk town of Soufli as one of the world’s top tourist villages reflects the recovery that has taken place in recent years, driven by the local authorities. The cultivation of silk has started again and the production of silk fabrics has resumed. At the same time, new ways of making and using silk products have been developed. Other traditional crafts have also been promoted to highlight the region’s rich cultural heritage. With EU funding, the municipality has also organized large-scale events and festivals to attract visitors. Investments in innovative technologies such as VR and digital guides contribute to a modern and sustainable tourism offer. The silk town of Soufli combines the old and the new in a creative way.

It is no wonder that Soufli sometimes is called the town of museums. There are several impressive museums offering unique collections and exhibitions on the production and processing of silk. They also organize guided tours where visitors have a great opportunity to immerse themselves in the whole process of silk production and silk processing:

• Art of Silk Museum
• Soufli Folklore Museum
• Silk Museum of the Piraeus Bank Group Cultural Foundation (PIOP) network
• Municipal Folklore Museum

Visitors can also explore beautiful and high-quality silk products, not only in the city’s museums, but also in the numerous shops that characterize the townscape.

Taste experiences in the silk town of Soufli

Since the entire region of Thrace and the Evros Valley always constituted a crossroad and a melting pot of people and cultures, it is no surprise that Soufli offers a gastronomic diversity rich in influences from all directions. The town is known for its outstanding wine, the spicy tsipouro drink and its traditional delicacies, including tasty herb-spiced sausages, kavurma and, above all, the babo sausage – the famous Thracian delicacy. In the food shops you can also find products from local dairies and apiaries, as well as delicious dried fruits and nuts.

Detailed information on the local supply of products and services in Soufli can be found here: https://www.visitsoufli.com/

Related article: World Heritage in Greece 2023, complete UNESCO list

Sources: Municipality of Soufli, UNWTO, Wikipedia, Svens­ka In­sti­tu­tet i Athen

Note: This article is a re-posting from the private blog of the founder of Greek Expedition, Georgios Xyftilis. Since it was posted (18 June 2014), we have received good news about the cave. In Georgios own words: “I got some really GOOD NEWS (since I last posted this article): A speleologist, who recently visited cave Rizoupoli – in Athens and made measurements, informed me that the pollution has now decreased significantly. Nature has regenerated and self-healed surprisingly fast!“

Unfortunately, the cave has been severed damaged by the continuous building of the area in previous decades.The old entrance to the cave, situated on a fenced plot at Komanon street, is today sealed by the Greek Ministry of Culture.

Cave Rizoupoli – in Athens, first explorations

The cave was explored for the first time in by legendary Greek speleologist Anna Petrocheilou in 1960. She was descending through the old – and by now the only entrance left, and made a detailed mapping of the cave´s complex structure.

It is interesting to compare the area of the cave from map above with Google Earth surface map of Rizoupoli – below. Click on images to see details.

Scientific report

In her report, published by the Hellenic Speleological Society, Anna Petrocheilou describes in detail the chambers and corridors and other complexities of the cave, she writes about the spectacular stalagmites and stalactites, as well as the various archaeological and paleontological findings .

She writes further that the cave was known already in the 1930s and that the local authorities of that time wanted to turn it into a nightclub! For this reason they had already installed wide system of cables and lamps. The outbreak of the second world war foiled these grandiose plans (thankfully).

The entire report can be found as pdf-file here (in Greek).

Archived video of Exploration

An old and very rare video document showing Anna Petrocheilou´s explorations of cave Rizoupoli – in Athens, can be found at the YouTube-channel of Geomythiki, by the speleolog Dimitris Theodosopoulos.

Cave interior

The pictures below of cave Rizoupoli- in Athens are from the excellent blog of Greek speleologist Athanasios Xanthopoulos. He was exploring the cave recently and documented it with rich photographic material.

Ground level entrance – now built upon

In the 1970´s, a new ground level entrance was discovered in conjunction with the building of a huge house complex. Despite the recommendations of the scientists, permission to continue the building was granted by the authorities.

Before the destruction of cave Rizoupoli – in Athens was completed, the entrance was open  to the public a few days. The result was that almost all residents in the area entered the cave, and cut off small souvenirs to keep as decoration in their homes.

Further explorations of cave Rizoupoli – in Athens

Further explorations of the cave has been made, with special permissions from the Ministry of Culture. Except the above already stated, you can find rich and excellent photographic material of the cave posted by the Hellenic Urban Exploration & Speleology. Below, picture from their blog: http://urbanspeleology.blogspot.gr

A childhood dream

We who grew up in this area and as a children played at the cave’s entrance, always dreamed of sometime be able to descend into the mysterious chambers of this crystal palace. Unfortunately, no such future possibilities seems to exist. There are no plans for remediation and restoration. The cave is sealed, largely destroyed and almost completely forgotten. But it will continue to live it’s own life with slow constant changes, as it has done for millions of years now, remembered occasionally only by a few nostalgics of … cave Rizoupoli – in Athens

Note: This article is a re-posting from the private blog of the founder of Greek Expedition, Georgios Xyftilis. Since it was posted (18 June 2014), we have received good news about the cave. In Georgios own words: “I got some really GOOD NEWS (since I last posted this article): A speleologist, who recently visited cave Rizoupoli – in Athens and made measurements, informed me that the pollution has now decreased significantly. Nature has regenerated and self-healed surprisingly fast!“

Leafy vegetables, or horta/χόρτα, have been filling stomachs and healing bodies and souls in Greece since ancient times. The deep-rooted knowledge of their benefits has flourished over generations and has undoubtedly contributed to survival and health during difficult periods in the country’s history. For thousands of years, these tasty and beneficial green leaves have been a valuable and powerful resource, helping to maintain both physical strength and spiritual balance in Greek society.

Super food high up in the Greek mountains

1992 was the first time I visited the village where my then-husband-to-be was born. I was immediately captivated, even though I had visited Greece countless times and had just completed a year of Greek studies at the University of Athens. The village Theriakisi (Θεριακήσι) is located in the prefecture of Aitolia-Akarnania, 750 meters above sea level, and at that time had about two hundred inhabitants, three kafenion and a telephone.

Lambros, my husband, was the youngest child in a group of nine. Father Alexandros was a shepherd and was away for long periods during the children’s upbringing, while mother Yppapadi, together with the children, took care of the olive groves, the vegetable garden, the chickens, and a pig. In the small basement space, there were barrels of olives, feta cheese, beans, chickpeas, pickled vegetables, lentils, lard, salted por,k and a weaving loom where the sheep’s hair was turned into blankets that warmed the family during the winter months. At the same time, they always collected leafy vegetables, especially when clearing the olive groves from early spring to late fall, and they consumed them almost daily.

My in-laws had a tough life, experiencing war, misery and poverty, but they lived to be almost a hundred years old. I am absolutely convinced that their lifestyle and dietary habits played a significant role in their longevity. Family, love, proximity to nature and animals, but also food and a balanced diet with lots of leafy vegetables.

A bit about myself: My name is Pia Jörhall Polyzou. Born and raised in Vänersborg, Sweden. Moved later to Gothenburg where I studied sociology. I graduated as a social worker and worked as a probation officer in the prison service. Then I studied Greek at the University of Athens, met my future Greek husband and worked as a translator and newsreader at the state radio ERA, in the program Φωνή της Ελλάδας/Voice of Greece. We now live in a suburb of Washington DC, have three grown children and deep roots in both Greece and Sweden.

Theophrastus the scholar and the herbs

Theophrastus (371-287 BC) is often referred to as the father of herbs and constantly appears in the literature on leafy vegetables. He was born on Lesbos, but moved to Athens as a young man to study at Plato’s Academy. After Plato’s death, Aristotle became his mentor and they went back to Lesbos to study botany. Theophrastus later returned to Athens and contributed to a collaboration between the Lyceum and Plato’s Academy. Under Aristotle’s guidance, the latter created the Peripatetic School. The name means the walking school because Aristotle had an idea that students learn better if they walk (περιπατώ/peripato). It was in such ways that he applied philosophical theories to everyday life.

Theophrastus was a highly educated and respected person who taught botany and wrote several books during his lifetime. The most influential of these were Peri fyton historia (Περί Φυτών Ιστορία – On the history of plants), and Peri phyton aition (Περί Φυτών Αιτιών – On the origin of plants). These writings laid the foundation for the classification of plants, for which the founder of modern Botany, Carl Linnaeus, praised him much later.

🥬 Greek super food, list of some common leafy vegetables

Leafy greens can rightly be called Greece’s number one superfood. They are used in many ways, as food, drink and for healing purposes. They can be eaten raw, cooked, used in dishes, in smoothies, teas and health shots. The roots, as well as the seeds, are also used, especially in alternative medicine. Below we present some of the most common leafy greens.

🌿Field mustard/βρούβες (vrouves). Sinapis arvensis

There is a saying in Greece that loosely translates as “Are you looking for the field mustard?” It means that someone is looking for something in plain sight, but can’t see what’s obviously right in front of their eyes.

Vrouves are among the most common leafy vegetables in Greece and are a collective name for many different species in the mustard genus. As the saying goes, they grow everywhere. They’re not too fussy, all they need is sun, so don’t be surprised if you see yellow little flowers growing on walls or between rocks. The flowers are yellow and pointed and bloom from April to October. In many villages it is also used in dishes and the seeds are ground down with oil to make mustard (from the Greek word σινάπι/sinapi).

Field mustard or charlock mustard is also mentioned by Theophrastus who described it as ‘healing’ and contains vitamins A, C, B, E, D, K, B6, B12, magnesium, iron, calcium and phosphorus.

🌱Purple amaranth/ βλήτα (vlitta). Amaranthus blitum

During the summer months, amaranth/vlita is often found on the Greek dinner table and is widely served in taverns. It is considered the queen of leafy greens, truly Greece’s #1 superfood. Vlita combines well with fish or seafood. There are about 75 different varieties of purple amaranth around the world.

In ancient times, its flowers were considered sacred and protected by the goddess Artemis. They were a symbol of eternal life and were often placed on graves.

Amaranth is quite easy to grow especially in the Mediterranean, and contains vitamins C, A, B, calcium, niacin, riboflavin, iron, and magnesium. Some studies suggest that it contributes to strengthening the immune system, lowering blood pressure and reducing the risk of osteoporosis.

🌱 Dandelion /ραδίκια (radikia). Taraxacum officinale

Ραδίκια/radikia is the second most common leafy vegetable served in Greek restaurants after vlita. Perhaps you could call it Greece’s number #2 superfood. Radikia is either harvested wild or cultivated on a small scale as a leafy vegetable. The leaves can be eaten either cooked or raw in various forms, such as in soup or salad.

Radikia or dandelion is probably also the most common wild leafy vegetable in many countries and it is very tasty when it is picked early and is a health bomb containing vitamins K, A, C, B, and E.

Theophrastus and others after him called the dandelion “the liver’s best friend”. It is still considered today to cleanse the blood, lower blood pressure, blood sugar and cholesterol.

Radikia can be applied in all recipes with leafy vegetables

🌱 Pursley/γλιστρίδα (glistrida). Portulaca oleracea

Pursley or Purslane/γλιστρίδα is a well-known salad plant that grows abundantly, mainly in vegetable gardens, without needing special care. It is used as a refreshment in salads and as a healing herb. It has been known as a medicinal plant for over 2000 years. The small leaves are dark green, crisp and thick.

Theophrastus introduced it as an early form of antibiotic to cure fever, stomachache, sore throat, headache and scurvy. Glistrida contains high levels of iron, phosphorus, magnesium and calcium.

🌱Pursley/γλιστρίδα is in many places in Greece also called andrakla/αντράκλα .

🌱Nettle/τσουκνίδα (tsouknida). Urtica dioica

Nettles probably need no introduction. Even in Greece they are eaten as salad, soup and sometimes replace spinach. The stingers are neutralized by boiling the leaves and squeezing out the water.

In the Expedition’s article on Greek herbs, nettle is listed as the country’s top one healing herb.

It is said that the ancient Greeks often started their day with a nettle drink that could strengthen the immune system, prevent colds and relieve ailments.

Nettle contains vitamins C, K, B, iron and calcium.

🌱Red mallow/ μολόχα (molocha). Malva sylvestris

The red mallow is a very common plant across the Mediterranean region and in many other places around the world. It is very adaptable and grows not only in coastal zones but also at high altitudes. You can enjoy its color and beauty whether you are by the sea or in the mountains.

In ancient Greece, mallow was highly valued and admired by prominent philosophers such as Pythagoras and Plato. It is known that mallow was used as a prophylactic against arteriosclerosis and as an effective remedy for inflamed wounds and relief from insect bites. Its beneficial properties for health and well-being made it an important part of the ancient medical and cultural world. Maybe it is the most important variety of all time of the Greek super food.

Malva has a bitter taste. In contemporary alternative medicine, it is considered an anti-inflammatory and is prescribed for stomach problems, bronchitis, coughs and sore throats.

Greece’s super food, some lesser-known leafy greens:

Sow-thistle/ ζοχιά (zochia). Sonchus oleraceus.
Very well known since ancient times for its healing effects. It was used as a blood purifier and
for high fever. It is quite bitter when raw, but the bitterness goes away if cooked. Sow-thistle contains vitamin C, calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, and iron.

Curly dock/λάπαθο, λαπάθα (lápatho, lapátha). Rumex crispus
Lapatha belongs to the family of sliding plants and there are over 25 different species in Greece. The leaves have a sour taste, are dark green with streaks of yellow and are often used in pies or cooked with meat dishes. Lapatha is associated with many possible health benefits and is thought to relieve osteoporosis, lower blood pressure and help with insect bites. It contains vitamins C, A, B1, B2 and iron.

My garden in the USA

Recipe ideas for Greece’s super foods:

Vinaigrette. One part acid (vinegar, lemon, balsamic or apple cider vinegar), two parts olive oil, salt and pepper. I like to add finely chopped garlic, Dijon mustard, a little honey and herbs. If the vinaigrette is a bit thick, add a little water.

Pie dough and phyllo are often made with leafy vegetables and the variations are endless. Phyllo are now available in the freezer section of most supermarkets. Thaw it slowly in the fridge, but work quickly as they dry quickly. I cover them with damp kitchen towels. My standard recipe for pie dough is one cup of flour, one stick of butter in small cubes and one cup of water. Form it into a ball and let it rest in the fridge for half an hour. Then fix the filling by whisking together eggs and milk, salt, pepper, leafy greens and a pinch of nutmeg.

Spinach rice is a popular everyday dish in Greece and a favorite in our family. Chop and soak a large leek, finely chop fresh onion, dill and mint. Fry everything on medium heat with a little olive oil, add one cup of rice and let it sweat a little. Add the spinach and four cups of water and two vegetable broths.

Nettle drink the Socrates way is easy to make. Boil four cups of water and mix in 2 tablespoons of dried nettles. Simmer under a lid for ten minutes, mix with lemon juice and honey. Drink hot or cold.

Mustard is quite easy to make, but needs a few days before it is ready. Combine 2 oz of brown and 2 oz of yellow mustard seeds with 2 oz of beer or water and 3 oz of white wine vinegar in a jar with a lid and store in the fridge for at least 8 hours. Blend to a paste with a teaspoon of salt in a blender until you get the consistency you want. Store the mustard in a glass jar with a lid at room temperature for one to two days.

Do you have your own recipes for leafy greens or other Greek dishes? We welcome your ideas in the comments section below!

Sources: Wordreference.com, itrofi.gr, eatweeds.co.uk, vita.gr, Wikipedia.org, votaniki.gr, nikosfountas.gr, medlar.gr, mixanitouxronou.gr, ennallaktikidrasi.gr, bodyinbalance.gr, peacehealth.org, nih.gov, academic.our.com, culinaryhill.com.