The chef Nikolaos Tselementes was the man behind this transformation. Using French cooking techniques and Italian influences, he reshaped older Greek dishes and culinary traditions from the Eastern Mediterranean. His influence became so great that his last name became—and remains—a common Greek word for cookbook. But who was the chef who set out to modernize Greek cuisine?

The chef who became a cookbook

Nikolaos Tselementes was born in 1878 into a family with roots in Exambela on the island of Sifnos, but he grew up in Athens. He initially worked in a notary’s office. His path to the kitchen began at his family’s Aktaion hotel and restaurant in Neo Faliro, where he got his first glimpse of professional cooking.

Tselementes was not content simply to learn the dishes already being served. He soon studied cooking in Vienna and later worked, among other things, as an embassy chef. In 1910, he began publishing the monthly magazine Odigos Mageirikis (Cooking Guide), featuring recipes, nutritional advice, and food news from other countries. After spending time in the United States, where he pursued further studies in cooking, pastry making, and dietetics, he compiled his knowledge in the major cookbook published in 1926.

The book gave the growing urban middle class more than recipes: it offered standardized measurements, clear methods, and a vision of what a modern Greek kitchen should look like. Its impact was so great that, over time, the name Tselementes became synonymous with the Greek word for cookbook (τσελεμεντές/tselementes).

The word τσελεμεντές still means a cookbook or recipe collection in Greek. Even today, a Greek may open their tselementes to look for a recipe. In this usage, the name is written with a lowercase initial and even has a plural form. The chef had become a cookbook.

A cuisine in constant transformation

Greek cuisine had been evolving for thousands of years before Tselementes stepped up to the stove. Ingredients, dishes, and techniques had traveled between peoples and across seas. His contribution was therefore not the beginning of this transformation, but a new and extraordinarily influential chapter in it.

Moussaka

Moussaka (μουσακάς/mousakas) already existed in various forms throughout the Ottoman Empire and the Eastern Mediterranean. During the 1920s, Tselementes formulated and popularized his modern Greek version. The original recipe featured fried eggplant, ground meat, and a thick layer of béchamel, all baked together in the oven. An older dish thus acquired the form that has since become an international symbol of Greek food.

Pastitsio

Something similar happened to pastitsio (παστίτσιο/pastitsio). The name comes from the Italian pasticcio, and an older pasta pie encased in pastry or phyllo existed on the Ionian Islands. Tselementes removed the crust and instead assembled the dish in open layers of pasta, ground-meat sauce, and béchamel. Greek American cookbook author Aglaia Kremezi has described how her grandmother preferred the old pasta pie, while her aunt defended the new “Tselementes style.” The transformation was therefore unfolding at family dinner tables as well.

Other Dishes

His influence can be seen in several other dishes and cooking methods:

• Greek béchamel: The French sauce was enriched with eggs and cheese and came to play a central role in several baked dishes.
• Stuffed eggplants (μελιτζάνες παπουτσάκια/melitzanes papoutsakia): Stuffed eggplant halves—“little shoes”—topped with béchamel in the modern version.
• Egg-lemon thickener (αυγολέμονο/avgolemono): Through his recipes, the older egg-and-lemon sauce acquired a thicker, more standardized urban form.
• Meatball and rice soup (γιουβαρλάκια/giouvarlakia): Meat-and-rice balls with older Eastern roots, popularized in the now-familiar soup served with avgolemono.
• Artichoke and vegetable stew (αγκινάρες αλά πολίτα/anginares a la polita): Tselementes helped rename and reshape the dish, but he did not single-handedly create the version known today.
• Oriental meatballs from Smyrna (σμυρναίικα σουτζουκάκια/smyrneika soutzoukakia): In his version, dried mint replaced the dish’s characteristic cumin as the dominant flavor.

His method was as important as the individual dishes. Tselementes used French techniques, butter, and cream, but above all, he provided exact quantities and clear instructions. Regional recipes passed down orally were adapted for an urban middle class that wanted to learn cooking from a book. He did more than make the dishes different—he also made them reproducible.

When the foreign becomes traditional

Tselementes’s changes were not met with admiration alone. Critics argued that he had Frenchified the Greek gastronomy: olive oil and garlic sometimes gave way to butter, cream, and French sauces, while Turkish names and Eastern influences were downplayed. Greek American cookbook author Aglaia Kremezi has said that he both changed and “ruined” Greek food. Historian Nikos Stavroulakis went further, calling him the greatest tragedy ever to befall Greek cuisine.

At the same time, the boundary between the foreign and the traditional is not always clear. Tomatoes and potatoes came to Europe from the Americas and have no ancient roots in either Greece or Sweden. Yet today, it is difficult to imagine Greek food without tomatoes, nor traditional Swedish cooking without potatoes. Something similar happened with several of Tselementes’s ideas. The béchamel topping, once perceived as a foreign addition, became within a few generations the most widely recognized image of authentic Greek cooking

That may be his clearest legacy: not that he single-handedly created modern Greek cuisine, but that he proved how quickly an innovation can become a tradition.

Keep cooking

• Modern Classic Pastitsio—Aglaia Kremezi
• Greek Béchamel and Papoutsakia—Kopiaste
• Anginares à la Polita—Caruso

Sources

Greek Reporter—overview/biography of Nikolaos Tselementes
https://greekreporter.com/2022/09/12/nikolaos-tselementes-father-greek-cookbooks/

Tselementes.gr—biography of Nikolaos Tselementes
https://tselementes.gr/author/nikolaos/

Aglaia Kremezi / Saveur—on Tselementes’s legacy
https://www.saveur.com/greek-chef-tselementes-legacy/

Wikipedia—Nikolaos Tselementes
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nikolaos_Tselementes

Related Articles

Greece’s Superfood: Horta

Leafy vegetables, or horta/χόρτα, have been filling stomachs and healing bodies and souls in Greece since ancient times. The deep-rooted knowledge of their benefits has flourished over generations and has undoubtedly contributed to survival and health during difficult periods in the country’s history. For thousands of years, these tasty and beneficial green leaves have been a valuable and powerful resource, helping to maintain both physical strength and spiritual balance in Greek society.

Super food high up in the Greek mountains

1992 was the first time I visited the village where my then-husband-to-be was born. I was immediately captivated, even though I had visited Greece countless times and had just completed a year of Greek studies at the University of Athens. The village Theriakisi (Θεριακήσι) is located in the prefecture of Aitolia-Akarnania, 750 meters above sea level, and at that time had about two hundred inhabitants, three kafenion and a telephone.

Lambros, my husband, was the youngest child in a group of nine. Father Alexandros was a shepherd and was away for long periods during the children’s upbringing, while mother Yppapadi, together with the children, took care of the olive groves, the vegetable garden, the chickens, and a pig. In the small basement space, there were barrels of olives, feta cheese, beans, chickpeas, pickled vegetables, lentils, lard, salted por,k and a weaving loom where the sheep’s hair was turned into blankets that warmed the family during the winter months. At the same time, they always collected leafy vegetables, especially when clearing the olive groves from early spring to late fall, and they consumed them almost daily.

My in-laws had a tough life, experiencing war, misery and poverty, but they lived to be almost a hundred years old. I am absolutely convinced that their lifestyle and dietary habits played a significant role in their longevity. Family, love, proximity to nature and animals, but also food and a balanced diet with lots of leafy vegetables.

A bit about myself: My name is Pia Jörhall Polyzou. Born and raised in Vänersborg, Sweden. Moved later to Gothenburg where I studied sociology. I graduated as a social worker and worked as a probation officer in the prison service. Then I studied Greek at the University of Athens, met my future Greek husband and worked as a translator and newsreader at the state radio ERA, in the program Φωνή της Ελλάδας/Voice of Greece. We now live in a suburb of Washington DC, have three grown children and deep roots in both Greece and Sweden.

Theophrastus the scholar and the herbs

Theophrastus (371-287 BC) is often referred to as the father of herbs and constantly appears in the literature on leafy vegetables. He was born on Lesbos, but moved to Athens as a young man to study at Plato’s Academy. After Plato’s death, Aristotle became his mentor and they went back to Lesbos to study botany. Theophrastus later returned to Athens and contributed to a collaboration between the Lyceum and Plato’s Academy. Under Aristotle’s guidance, the latter created the Peripatetic School. The name means the walking school because Aristotle had an idea that students learn better if they walk (περιπατώ/peripato). It was in such ways that he applied philosophical theories to everyday life.

Theophrastus was a highly educated and respected person who taught botany and wrote several books during his lifetime. The most influential of these were Peri fyton historia (Περί Φυτών Ιστορία – On the history of plants), and Peri phyton aition (Περί Φυτών Αιτιών – On the origin of plants). These writings laid the foundation for the classification of plants, for which the founder of modern Botany, Carl Linnaeus, praised him much later.

🥬 Greek super food, list of some common leafy vegetables

Leafy greens can rightly be called Greece’s number one superfood. They are used in many ways, as food, drink and for healing purposes. They can be eaten raw, cooked, used in dishes, in smoothies, teas and health shots. The roots, as well as the seeds, are also used, especially in alternative medicine. Below we present some of the most common leafy greens.

🌿Field mustard/βρούβες (vrouves). Sinapis arvensis

There is a saying in Greece that loosely translates as “Are you looking for the field mustard?” It means that someone is looking for something in plain sight, but can’t see what’s obviously right in front of their eyes.

Vrouves are among the most common leafy vegetables in Greece and are a collective name for many different species in the mustard genus. As the saying goes, they grow everywhere. They’re not too fussy, all they need is sun, so don’t be surprised if you see yellow little flowers growing on walls or between rocks. The flowers are yellow and pointed and bloom from April to October. In many villages it is also used in dishes and the seeds are ground down with oil to make mustard (from the Greek word σινάπι/sinapi).

Field mustard or charlock mustard is also mentioned by Theophrastus who described it as ‘healing’ and contains vitamins A, C, B, E, D, K, B6, B12, magnesium, iron, calcium and phosphorus.

🌱Purple amaranth/ βλήτα (vlitta). Amaranthus blitum

During the summer months, amaranth/vlita is often found on the Greek dinner table and is widely served in taverns. It is considered the queen of leafy greens, truly Greece’s #1 superfood. Vlita combines well with fish or seafood. There are about 75 different varieties of purple amaranth around the world.

In ancient times, its flowers were considered sacred and protected by the goddess Artemis. They were a symbol of eternal life and were often placed on graves.

Amaranth is quite easy to grow especially in the Mediterranean, and contains vitamins C, A, B, calcium, niacin, riboflavin, iron, and magnesium. Some studies suggest that it contributes to strengthening the immune system, lowering blood pressure and reducing the risk of osteoporosis.

🌱 Dandelion /ραδίκια (radikia). Taraxacum officinale

Ραδίκια/radikia is the second most common leafy vegetable served in Greek restaurants after vlita. Perhaps you could call it Greece’s number #2 superfood. Radikia is either harvested wild or cultivated on a small scale as a leafy vegetable. The leaves can be eaten either cooked or raw in various forms, such as in soup or salad.

Radikia or dandelion is probably also the most common wild leafy vegetable in many countries and it is very tasty when it is picked early and is a health bomb containing vitamins K, A, C, B, and E.

Theophrastus and others after him called the dandelion “the liver’s best friend”. It is still considered today to cleanse the blood, lower blood pressure, blood sugar and cholesterol.

Radikia can be applied in all recipes with leafy vegetables

🌱 Pursley/γλιστρίδα (glistrida). Portulaca oleracea

Pursley or Purslane/γλιστρίδα is a well-known salad plant that grows abundantly, mainly in vegetable gardens, without needing special care. It is used as a refreshment in salads and as a healing herb. It has been known as a medicinal plant for over 2000 years. The small leaves are dark green, crisp and thick.

Theophrastus introduced it as an early form of antibiotic to cure fever, stomachache, sore throat, headache and scurvy. Glistrida contains high levels of iron, phosphorus, magnesium and calcium.

🌱Pursley/γλιστρίδα is in many places in Greece also called andrakla/αντράκλα .

🌱Nettle/τσουκνίδα (tsouknida). Urtica dioica

Nettles probably need no introduction. Even in Greece they are eaten as salad, soup and sometimes replace spinach. The stingers are neutralized by boiling the leaves and squeezing out the water.

In the Expedition’s article on Greek herbs, nettle is listed as the country’s top one healing herb.

It is said that the ancient Greeks often started their day with a nettle drink that could strengthen the immune system, prevent colds and relieve ailments.

Nettle contains vitamins C, K, B, iron and calcium.

🌱Red mallow/ μολόχα (molocha). Malva sylvestris

The red mallow is a very common plant across the Mediterranean region and in many other places around the world. It is very adaptable and grows not only in coastal zones but also at high altitudes. You can enjoy its color and beauty whether you are by the sea or in the mountains.

In ancient Greece, mallow was highly valued and admired by prominent philosophers such as Pythagoras and Plato. It is known that mallow was used as a prophylactic against arteriosclerosis and as an effective remedy for inflamed wounds and relief from insect bites. Its beneficial properties for health and well-being made it an important part of the ancient medical and cultural world. Maybe it is the most important variety of all time of the Greek super food.

Malva has a bitter taste. In contemporary alternative medicine, it is considered an anti-inflammatory and is prescribed for stomach problems, bronchitis, coughs and sore throats.

Greece’s super food, some lesser-known leafy greens:

Sow-thistle/ ζοχιά (zochia). Sonchus oleraceus.
Very well known since ancient times for its healing effects. It was used as a blood purifier and
for high fever. It is quite bitter when raw, but the bitterness goes away if cooked. Sow-thistle contains vitamin C, calcium, phosphorus, magnesium, and iron.

Curly dock/λάπαθο, λαπάθα (lápatho, lapátha). Rumex crispus
Lapatha belongs to the family of sliding plants and there are over 25 different species in Greece. The leaves have a sour taste, are dark green with streaks of yellow and are often used in pies or cooked with meat dishes. Lapatha is associated with many possible health benefits and is thought to relieve osteoporosis, lower blood pressure and help with insect bites. It contains vitamins C, A, B1, B2 and iron.

My garden in the USA

Recipe ideas for Greece’s super foods:

Vinaigrette. One part acid (vinegar, lemon, balsamic or apple cider vinegar), two parts olive oil, salt and pepper. I like to add finely chopped garlic, Dijon mustard, a little honey and herbs. If the vinaigrette is a bit thick, add a little water.

Pie dough and phyllo are often made with leafy vegetables and the variations are endless. Phyllo are now available in the freezer section of most supermarkets. Thaw it slowly in the fridge, but work quickly as they dry quickly. I cover them with damp kitchen towels. My standard recipe for pie dough is one cup of flour, one stick of butter in small cubes and one cup of water. Form it into a ball and let it rest in the fridge for half an hour. Then fix the filling by whisking together eggs and milk, salt, pepper, leafy greens and a pinch of nutmeg.

Spinach rice is a popular everyday dish in Greece and a favorite in our family. Chop and soak a large leek, finely chop fresh onion, dill and mint. Fry everything on medium heat with a little olive oil, add one cup of rice and let it sweat a little. Add the spinach and four cups of water and two vegetable broths.

Nettle drink the Socrates way is easy to make. Boil four cups of water and mix in 2 tablespoons of dried nettles. Simmer under a lid for ten minutes, mix with lemon juice and honey. Drink hot or cold.

Mustard is quite easy to make, but needs a few days before it is ready. Combine 2 oz of brown and 2 oz of yellow mustard seeds with 2 oz of beer or water and 3 oz of white wine vinegar in a jar with a lid and store in the fridge for at least 8 hours. Blend to a paste with a teaspoon of salt in a blender until you get the consistency you want. Store the mustard in a glass jar with a lid at room temperature for one to two days.

Do you have your own recipes for leafy greens or other Greek dishes? We welcome your ideas in the comments section below!

Sources: Wordreference.com, itrofi.gr, eatweeds.co.uk, vita.gr, Wikipedia.org, votaniki.gr, nikosfountas.gr, medlar.gr, mixanitouxronou.gr, ennallaktikidrasi.gr, bodyinbalance.gr, peacehealth.org, nih.gov, academic.our.com, culinaryhill.com.