For years, we had heard people describe how oddly touching it felt to lay your towel on ancient marble and swim near pillars and relics from another time. The site remained completely open to the public until quite recently – and in many ways, it still is.

When we arrived, we were struck by how closely the reality matched the stories: the turquoise bay, the light, the crystal-clear water, and the quiet sense of freedom in a sacred landscape from ages past. Some parts are now cordoned off – a simple rope in a few places – but the little harbor remains open to small boats, the path down to the temple has been improved, and the old feeling of openness still lingers. This is a place where myth, the everyday, and the sea still meet. But perhaps not for much longer.

Heraion – history

Heraion is located at the westernmost tip of the Perachora Peninsula, overlooking the Gulf of Corinth and the historic sea routes along the northern coast of the Peloponnese. The site was a sanctuary dedicated to the goddess Hera and gradually became one of the most important places of worship in the region. The sanctuary itself lies in a sheltered bay just below the Melagavi lighthouse – a landmark that still guides maritime traffic today: southbound vessels toward the Corinth Canal, and northbound toward the Alkyonides Islands.

The first temple

As early as the Geometric period, around 900–700 BCE, the site was used for religious rituals. A first temple was likely built during the following Archaic period, when the area began to develop into one of the most significant sacred centers in the region. This earliest temple was probably constructed by inhabitants of Argos or possibly Megara, before Corinth later established its presence in the area. The Heraion was dedicated to Hera Akraia – “Hera of the Promontory” – a name that reflects both the site’s dramatic location and the special role the goddess held here. None of the earliest structures have survived, but archaeological finds suggest that the site was considered sacred long before the later monumental sanctuary was built.

The classical sanctuary

The temple, whose ruins still stand today, was built in the 6th century BCE in the Doric style, with a rectangular floor plan and a long altar structure to the east of the inner chamber, where the cult statue once stood. The site was gradually expanded during the Classical and Hellenistic periods with courtyards, colonnades, and water reservoirs. One of the most fascinating structures is the large stoa – an arcade – on the eastern side of the bay, constructed in two levels – the lower floor with Doric columns, the upper with more slender Ionic ones. The stoa was built in the 4th century BCE, possibly by Demetrios Poliorketes – a Hellenistic ruler known for his military campaigns and large-scale building projects. On the opposite side of the bay was a partially roofed courtyard complex, believed to have burned down during the Roman campaigns of 146 BCE.

Epithets of the Goddess

The goddess Hera was worshipped here under different epithets – Akraia and Limenia, ““Hera of the Promontory” and “Hera of the Harbor” – suggesting that the sanctuary served both as a local cult site and a landmark for seafarers in the Gulf of Corinth. The small bay below the sanctuary is believed to have functioned as an ancient harbor. A bit further up in the rock was a sacred cistern where rainwater was collected. More than 200 bronze vessels have been found here, likely used in purification rituals or libations to the gods. Some researchers have suggested that Heraion may also have functioned as an oracle site.

Heraion and the myth of Medea

The connection to the underworld and ritual power is deepened by the myth of Medea. According to some versions, it was here, after leaving Corinth, that she buried her children, the ones she had killed in her fury over Jason’s betrayal. When Strabo mentions the site in the 1st century CE, he also refers to an oracle, which may reflect lingering cult practices.

During the Roman period, the area began to lose its religious significance. Private houses were built near the temple, and the sanctuary seems to have been abandoned after the destruction of Corinth in 146 BCE. In Byzantine times, a small church was built atop the ruins—dedicated to Saint John the Baptist—but was relocated during excavations in the 20th century to a nearby site east of the bay.

Much of what we know about Heraion today comes from the British excavations conducted between 1930 and 1933. The finds from the site have been crucial for our understanding of the Archaic and Geometric periods in the region, offering unique insights into early Greek religious practices, construction techniques, and artistic expression.

Lake Vouliagmeni

Not far from Heraion lies Lake Vouliagmeni. Technically, it’s not a freshwater lake in the traditional sense, but a saltwater one, known as a limnothalassa in Greek. It is connected to the Gulf of Corinth through a narrow channel. The water at the inlet changes direction approximately every six hours, a rare phenomenon also seen at the Evripos Strait near the island of Euboea. When the current flows out toward the sea, the pull becomes so strong that it takes considerable force to enter the lagoon – something that likely posed a challenge for sailors even in ancient times.

In antiquity, the lake was known as Eschatiotis or Gorgopis, and it likely originated from a prehistoric earthquake. According to geological theories, it was formed when unstable layers of earth collapsed, causing the ground to sink. Today, the area is not only scenic but also of considerable archaeological importance.

As early as 2600 BCE, a settlement existed along the lake’s southwestern shore. Finds from excavations show that the site is among the most significant prehistoric settlements in all of Greece. Notably, a grave was discovered four meters deep, containing around 20 skeletons placed irregularly alongside some 60 clay vessels – one of them made from precious stone.

Archaeologists have also identified a nearby cave system with two chambers, believed to have served as an ossuary for the prehistoric settlement.

A unique aqueduct

To meet the water needs of the Heraion sanctuary – especially during peak periods of religious use -Corinthian engineers constructed an advanced hydraulic system, perhaps the most sophisticated in ancient Greece. About 750 meters northeast of the sanctuary lay a series of water cisterns, accessible via 160 steps carved directly into the rock. At a depth of 40 meters, water was collected in shafts, tunnels, and a richly decorated fountain structure supported by six columns. Using a unique lifting mechanism, the water was drawn from the depths and brought to the surface – an engineering feat that still impresses today with its precision.

A final stop

After all this – the temples, the cliffs, the stories – it feels right to let the journey pause in something simpler. A fish taverna by the shore of Lake Vouliagmeni, where tables and chairs sit unevenly in the gravel. Plates of fish and seafood arrive, rich with the scent of the sea – some of the freshest we’ve ever tasted. And there, in the shade of a pine tree, past and present seem to exhale together, before the journey continues toward the northern reaches of the Perachora Peninsula and the Gulf of Corinth.

Sources

– Kathimerini: Corinthia – The Lake with Ancient Secrets
– Peloponnese Events (archived): The Archaeological Site of Heraion in Perachora
– Wikipedia (el): Heraion of Perachora
– Folklore Association of Perachora: The Archaeological Site of Heraion

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The ancient travel writer Pausanias, who visited the Olympieion in the 2nd century AD, described it as one of the most impressive temples in the world. He noted the massive Corinthian columns and the magnificent statue of Zeus, which testify to the temple’s status as a symbol of power and divinity in both Greek and Roman times.

Standing at the site today, you are greeted by fifteen ancient columns rising toward the sky, their intricately carved capitals worn by time, battered by storms, lightning, fierce winds, wars, and natural disasters. A sixteenth column lies toppled, broken into segments as if a titan had abandoned their work halfway through. It is hard to imagine that this was once one of the most magnificent temples in the world – today, it is a relic that exudes both tranquility and the grandeur of a bygone era, wrapped in the hum and bustle of the city’s vibrant heart.

But beyond the temple’s grand history, there are also lesser-known stories – episodes visitors rarely hear.

The devastating storm of 1852

On October 14, 1852, the region of Attica was struck by a mighty storm, bringing intense rainfall and extreme gale-force winds that caused widespread destruction. Streets, homes, and farmland were flooded, trees were uprooted, and simple houses collapsed. In Piraeus Harbor, boats were washed ashore, and parts of the National Garden in Athens were destroyed. That same night, two earthquakes occurred, further intensifying the inhabitants’ sense of doom.

One of the most significant damages was the collapse of one of the 16 standing columns of the Olympieion. This column, which had stood for nearly two millennia, fell and broke into 18 pieces. The event was described as a “national tragedy” and caused great sorrow among the inhabitants of Athens. The leading newspaper of the time, “Αιών” (Aeon), reported:

“But the most tragic of all calamities was the fall of a colossal column from the Temple of Zeus, which collapsed fully along its entire length. We beheld this giant, 22 centuries old, lying prostrate upon the ground, divided into 18 immense fragments, and felt the power of God—manifesting either through natural forces or as a moral reminder. This column was the central one of the three that stood apart from the main structure of the temple.”

After the event, the authorities decided to surround the area with barbed wire to prevent the theft of pieces from the fallen column. However, this measure was criticized for its lack of aesthetics, and many suggested that an iron fence that fits the site’s historical significance should be installed instead.

Interestingly, the fallen column soon became part of the city’s social life. Cafés and beer halls opened nearby, and parts of the column were even used as tables, giving the site an unexpected role as a gathering place for discussions and socializing. Archaeologists and intellectuals consistently protested throughout this period against such activities taking place so close to a historical monument.

The Pillar Saints on the Temple of Zeus

During the Ottoman period in Athens, the temple’s columns are believed to have become a refuge for ascetic monks, known as pillar saints or stylites. These ascetics, seeking spiritual purification and closeness to God, are said to have lived atop the massive columns, which stand approximately 17 meters tall. There, they built small, simple dwellings and spent their days praying and meditating. Residents are said to have sent up food and water using ropes and buckets.

This theory was put forward in 2017 by the British author and researcher Paul M.M. Cooper. He suggested the possibility that the columns were used by stylites over the centuries. He arrived at this theory by analyzing historical photographs, where he discovered a peculiar structure on top of one of the columns. The structure’s regularity and placement prompted further investigation, and by studying paintings, lithographs, and other depictions from the same period, he concluded that it was likely a small building, probably made of bricks, used by ascetics.

His work, based on both visual sources and historical documents, has sparked renewed curiosity about the previously unknown historical aspects of the site. Although extensive contemporary sources are lacking, the theory offers a unique insight into how these ancient structures might have been used during the Ottoman period. While the theory is not fully confirmed, it adds a new dimension to our understanding of the temple’s history.

According to other sources, the columns were not only used by Christian hermits but also by Turkish Muslim ascetics. It is also said that Ethiopian slaves regarded the Temple of Zeus as a sacred place for prayer and devotion, where they gathered and performed rituals, especially during times of drought. Local legends also tell of supernatural beings said to leap between the columns on dark and stormy nights. These stories and traditions highlight the multifaceted history of the Olympieion, where ancient architecture, religious devotion, and folklore intertwine.

After Greece’s independence from the Ottoman Empire in the 19th century, efforts began to strengthen the national identity and restore ancient monuments to their original state. As part of these initiatives, the authorities decided to remove all structures added during the Ottoman period, including the small dwellings of the stylites atop the Olympieion’s columns. Another famous structure demolished in the 1870s was the Frankish Tower on the Acropolis.

The demolition of the stylites’ dwellings marked the end of this unique religious practice at the temple. Despite these measures, traces of the pillar saints’ presence remain in artworks from various periods, testifying to their historical significance for the Olympieion.

Hidden structures of the Olympieion unveiled

As Greek Reporter recently highlighted, recent research by the National Technical University of Athens has unveiled hidden structures beneath the Temple of Olympian Zeus using advanced geophysical techniques. These methods, including ground-penetrating radar and 3D imaging, allow archaeologists to explore subsurface features without excavation.

The team discovered a network of arched tunnels, originally part of a Roman sewer system, later repurposed during Greece’s War of Independence, 1821 – 1829. Additionally, radar imaging revealed a system of tanks and drains north of the temple, likely connected to its original drainage design. These non-invasive methods aid in ongoing restoration efforts and pave the way for future archaeological breakthroughs.

The Olympieion and the timeless legacy of Athens

Athens is more than just a city; it is a living testament to the passage of history. Here, layers of classical ancient architecture, Hellenistic creativity, Roman grandeur, Byzantine mysticism, and Ottoman influence come together to shape its identity. The Temple of Zeus, with its majestic columns and diverse uses over the centuries, reflects these eras uniquely.

Each era has left its mark – from ancient sanctuaries, where spirituality and cultural symbolism thrived, to Byzantine and Ottoman mysticism, as well as the oral storytelling traditions that followed. It is precisely these many layers that make Athens so captivating and give the site’s history a profound and timeless resonance.

Olympieion – Models and Reconstructions

Would you like to see how the Olympieion and its surroundings might have looked in antiquity? Visit Ancient Athens 3D and explore fascinating reconstructions of the site, created by Dimitris Tsalkanis in collaboration with Professor Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos of the University of Athens.

Sources: Wikipedia, mixanitouxronou.gr, in.gr, iefimerida.gr

The Expedition’s guided tours spring 2025 – see Athens with fresh eyes

Are you ready to delve deeper into the stories still whispered among the ruins? In the spring of 2025, we will take you to sides of Athens few have explored – where every step uncovers new layers of hidden or forgotten histories. Soon, you’ll be able to book your spot on our updated guided tours and become part of this journey through time and space. Stay tuned here for upcoming dates and more details.

Goddess Artemis, Cult and Sanctuary

The sanctuary at Brauron is one of the most significant archaeological sites in Attica. It was expanded to its final form around the 6th century BC. This was the site of one of the most important festivals in antiquity, the Βραυρώνια/Brauronia, which was dedicated to the Olympian goddess Artemis.

The festivities were held every five years and were considered almost as important as the Eleusinian Mysteries, which we looked at in a previous article.

Artemis is one of the most versatile and fascinating goddesses in Greek mythology. Her cults were spread throughout the ancient Greek world. She was associated not only with hunting and wilderness but also with childbirth, women’s health, children, and youth, especially girls before they reached adulthood. At Brauron, Artemis seems to have been worshiped primarily in this role.

An important element of the Brauronia cult was the ritual ceremonies and processions of young girls approaching marriageable age. The girls were called άρκτοι (arktoi)/bears, symbolizing their transition from childhood to adulthood.

They honored Artemis through sacred dances, dressed in saffron-colored garments. They ran races and made offerings to the goddess. Sometimes, nudity was part of these rites of passage, symbolizing the girls’ preparation for adult life.

Before getting married, the girls also sacrificed their childhood toys to Artemis, and many of these objects have been found in the temple area.

During the later classical period, Artemis was also identified with Σελήνη/Selene, the personification of the moon. She was often said to wander in forests and mountains, accompanied by her nymphs. The Roman equivalent of Artemis is Diana.

Artemis temple

The temple dedicated to Artemis itself was built on the slope of a 78-foot-high hill where a spring, considered sacred, still flows. Today, only the foundations of the temple remain, as it has been destroyed over time by wars and natural disasters.

In the 15th century, the Byzantine chapel of Agios Georgios was built on the same site, partially carved into the rock. Nearby, the remains of an ancient church dated to the 5th century AD have also been found.

Stoa – The Colonnade

North of the temple, around the 5th century BC, what now dominates the site was built: a στοά/stoa – a colonnade or open hall, in the shape of a “Π” (Pi). It served as a central gathering place during religious festivals and promoted a sense of community among those honoring Artemis. Important ceremonies were performed here, and meals were held in honor of the goddess.

Adjacent to this was a smaller stoa that housed several rooms where the arktoi girls lived. Although this smaller stoa was never fully completed, it was actively used during the festivities in classical times. Several of the girls’ names have been found as inscriptions on the remains of the walls in this stoa.

In both colonnades, gifts and small statues were also placed, which parents offered as sacrifices when they put their children under the goddess’s protection.

Iphigenia’s tomb

The remains of what is said to be the mythological tomb of Iphigenia can be seen just east of the Temple of Artemis. The tomb was originally located inside a cave, whose roof collapsed already during the Classical period.

Iphigenia was the daughter of King Agamemnon and Queen Clytemnestra in Greek mythology. As told in the Iliad, before the Greeks could sail to Troy, the goddess Artemis demanded that Iphigenia be sacrificed to ensure favorable winds for the fleet.

At the last moment, Artemis saved Iphigenia and took her to the land of Tauris, on the coast of the Black Sea. With the help of her brother Orestes, she later returned to Greece. According to one version of the myth, retold by Euripides, Iphigenia arrived in Brauron, where she became the high priestess of Artemis.

A cult site since the Stone Age

Numerous archaeological finds have shown that the area of Brauron has been inhabited since ancient times. The hill and the sacred spring have played an important role in religious rituals as early as the Neolithic period and throughout the Bronze Age. The cult of Artemis is believed to have emerged and developed around the 9th century BC.

Unfortunately, much of the sanctuary was destroyed during the Persian invasion in 480 BC, but the site was partially rebuilt later during the Classical period. The festivities at Brauron began to decline after the 3rd century BC.

Sanctuaries near Athens: the museum in Brauron

The Archaeological Museum of Vravrona is located just a few hundred meters from the sanctuary. The permanent exhibition showcases finds from the excavations of the temple area and other nearby archaeological sites.

The exhibition focuses on the history of Brauron, from prehistoric settlements to ancient monuments, as well as traditions linked to the cult of Artemis. The museum also houses antiquities and finds from surrounding municipalities.

The museum has five exhibition halls, an inner courtyard, as well as storage and workshops for the preservation and conservation of archaeological finds.

Opening hours: Every day except Tuesday, 08:00 – 15:30.

You can download the museum guide in PDF format here (English/Greek) >>

The wetland of Brauron

The natural riverbed environment that still dominates the area around the mouth of the Erasinos River provides the land with an abundant water supply, and the Brauron area today forms an important wetland protected under Natura 2000, a European network for biodiversity conservation.

The Brauron wetland is home to a wide variety of plants and animals, many of which are very rare. Many herons find refuge here, while rare birds of prey nest on the surrounding hills. This ecological richness makes the area a central point for both history and nature conservation in the region.

Artemis – a versatile goddess

Artemis was a complex and versatile deity in Greek mythology. Her cults varied depending on the location and local traditions. In Ephesus, on the coast of Asia Minor, she was worshiped as a maternal fertility goddess. Her temple, the Artemision, was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World and an important center for the veneration of the goddess as a protector of motherhood and fertility.

In Sparta, she appeared as Artemis Orthia, a strict goddess who oversaw the education and physical training of young Spartans. Here, her role was closely tied to discipline and strength, qualities that were important in Spartan culture.

On the island of Delos, where according to mythology she and her twin brother Apollo were born, grand festivals were held in their honor. The island was a significant religious center, and Artemis was worshiped here as a powerful deity associated with birth and rites of passage.

Artemis was worshiped in many different ways, but everywhere she remained a powerful symbol of nature’s wild beauty and the female life cycle. She was a central figure in ancient Greece’s religious life and one of the oldest deities to be worshiped.

Brauron – Βραυρώνα

Sources

Greek Wikipedia, Greek Ministry of Culture, archaiologia.gr, Archeological Museum in Brauron

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